6n, fitting GT camshaft

Hardcore · Post by **Hardcore** » Fri Sep 14, 2007 4:21 pm

ok thanks dude! all i need now is someone to do the work for me

any mechanics areound wana earn some cash lol? next month ? cus i gota get parts an muney first lol

Hardcore · Post by **Hardcore** » Fri Sep 28, 2007 9:55 pm

guys. im confused here. i went to a garage earlier to get a price for a mechanic to fix one of these for me. n they said you cant just fit the camshaft to a normal enginee. as it would strain the springs which old the valvs or summit. what parts did you exactly change:S just the pulley cogg thing??

wouldnt this strain the cam belt??

JarnoVWPolo6N · Post by **JarnoVWPolo6N** » Sat Sep 29, 2007 11:35 am

What you mean by "strain the springs"?

I just swapped the camshafts, got my old one out, then putted the GT one in, no other mod's needed, it's a straight swap, and if any tw*t tells you it can't be done, tell him he's the dumbest mechanic ever known to mankind

cause it's already been done many times, with succes

Pedro_Hilario · Post by **Pedro_Hilario** » Sat Sep 29, 2007 1:38 pm

I really need to do this to my 1.3 in the future. But after some other mods ( BBS, mainly!)

If anyone does this in the meanwhile they should take a step by step pictures to make it easier to do the mod!

Pedro

JarnoVWPolo6N · Post by **JarnoVWPolo6N** » Sat Sep 29, 2007 2:28 pm

Pedro_Hilario wrote:I really need to do this to my 1.3 in the future. But after some other mods ( BBS, mainly!)

If anyone does this in the meanwhile they should take a step by step pictures to make it easier to do the mod!

Pedro

It really isn't hard, just:

take the valve cover off
take the distributionbelt cover off
loose the distributionbelttightener
take out the old camshaft (make sure it's "loose" from the ignition
swap the camshaft pulleys
put in the new GT cam (make sure to "hook it up" to the ignition, and to keep in mind the markings for the timing of the cam, which is on the pulley and the block)
put back the distribution belt
tighten the belt
put back all covers
rotate the crankshaft couple of times to make sure no valves hit the piston

And voila, enjoy your GT cam

(ok, this is a very "brief" explaination of the works, but buying yourself a Haynes manual will get you a looooong way in understanding what I describe here, Haynes manuals are the best investment you can make for your car

)

Pedro_Hilario · Post by **Pedro_Hilario** » Sat Sep 29, 2007 2:42 pm

Yeah,

I got a Haynes Manual, it already saved me alot of money with simple things that can be done to car and avoid the expensive garage. And here in Portugal, you just cant find a decent and honest mechanic!!!

I'm thinking of doing this next summer, so if I have any questions I'll ask at that time.

Pedro

JarnoVWPolo6N · Post by **JarnoVWPolo6N** » Sat Sep 29, 2007 4:03 pm

1 small tip for when buying the cam, it has to have the code 030 AF engraved in it. And make sure it comes from a mk 3 GT, with enginecode 3F, or else it's useless

Hardcore · Post by **Hardcore** » Sun Sep 30, 2007 8:11 pm

the mechanic said that it would damage all my valves or sumit. he said theres no point :S:S

sooo. would any one want to do this modd for me cus i aint touchin my ngine lol. ill brake it.and i cant find a mechanic no were to do it :O:O

neb · Post by **neb** » Mon Oct 01, 2007 7:30 pm

it shouldnt damage the valves, i dont think the lift is any higher as the lobes look the same, but i didnt measure. It just has a longer duration.

bit more in depth guide but it is off the top of my head
jack the car up on the offside, remove the front wheel and the cover on the bottom of the arch.
use a jack and bit of wood under the sump to support the engine(no wood means pain in the ass when the jack goes through the sump), remove the engine mount. jack the engine up to get to all the nuts and clips off the timing belt cover. lower the engine on the jack.
release the bolt on the alternator which allows you to tension the belt(sort of like a slider), lever off the engine to push the alternator down to slip the serpentine belt off. Remove the 4 allen bolts holding the serpentine belt pulley on the bottom of the engine, you can then see the crankshaft pulley.
Use a multi-sided spanner to turn the engine over clockwise until the arrow on the bottom crankshaft pulley is pointed upwards towards a marker and the mark on one of the teeth on the camshaft pulley is lined up with its marker (you can see in the pic). This is when n.o 1 piston (piston closest to the timing belt) is firing, both its valves are closed and the lobes on the camshaft are pointing upwards.
Release the timing belt tensioner and slide the belt off the camshaft pulley. jam a f off breaker bar or similer tool in the camshaft pulley and release the nut, taking off the pulley.
take the rocker off then all the 'shells' (not sure if its the right word) off to get the old camshaft out. Put the gt camshaft in a similar position to the original with both lobes pointing upwards, put all the shells back on and the camshaft pulley back on. Make sure your lower crankshaft pulley is still lined up. slip the belt back on the camshaft pulley making sure its sitting on all the pulleys correctly.
Use a allen key to get the tensioner in the correct position, lined up with its crazy markings and do up the nut. Turn over the engine clockwise on the bottom pulley to make sure the valves and pistons dont make sweet love. You can then use a long screw driver through the sparkplug hole on n.o 1 piston to get the valves opening at the best times. quote from yoof "I always set cams up by locating TDC and then measuring when max lift is on no.1 cylinder and adjusting timing to suit, usually 110degrees after"
Then just throw everything back together, the ignition timing needs playing with as well.

Hardcore · Post by **Hardcore** » Tue Oct 02, 2007 5:23 pm

sound as.

ermmm. the guy said it woudl damage them little springs which hold the valves open and close them. and that all the pipes would be under more pressure and strain. so he wouldnt do the job for me lol. :S:S:S

JarnoVWPolo6N · Post by **JarnoVWPolo6N** » Tue Oct 02, 2007 7:53 pm

Hardcore wrote: them little springs which hold the valves open and close them.

He means the cam itself? Or the valvesprings?

Hardcore wrote: all the pipes would be under more pressure and strain.

complete bullsh*t, the lift isn't that much higher, just slight fraction, mostly the gain comes from longer duration, which isn't enough to give a noticeble extra pressure

Go find yourself a decent mechanic m8

Hardcore · Post by **Hardcore** » Wed Oct 03, 2007 9:17 pm

im tyring to lol.

anyone wana be my mechanicn who lives near derbyshire

and i fink he means the valvesprings m8y.

by the way. you know the camshaft im looking for. is it the same size as the one im replacing it with??

JarnoVWPolo6N · Post by **JarnoVWPolo6N** » Wed Oct 03, 2007 10:36 pm

Hardcore wrote:im tyring to lol.

anyone wana be my mechanicn who lives near derbyshire

and i fink he means the valvesprings m8y.

by the way. you know the camshaft im looking for. is it the same size as the one im replacing it with??

Of course, or else it won't fit m8

you can't really see the difference if you don't know what to look for, just make sure there's 030 AF engraved in it.

Hardcore · Post by **Hardcore** » Thu Oct 04, 2007 9:33 pm

do i need to get all the pulleys and stuff?

and what will the water pump say on it?

JarnoVWPolo6N · Post by **JarnoVWPolo6N** » Fri Oct 05, 2007 3:09 pm

Hardcore wrote:do i need to get all the pulleys and stuff?

and what will the water pump say on it?

Orignal pulley can be swapped, replacing the waterpump and spanner is simple to take along, saves you a lot of time/money in the near future