9N - Oil change / Oil filter change

[capo]

Hi,


I joined UK-POLOS.NET last year, hoping to find a DIY Guide for an oil change / oil filter change on an 9N Polo. However I never found such a DIY Guide for oil and oil filter... so presuming there isn't one.. or maybe there was one but has been lost in a site reshuffle? Anyway... despite not finding what I initially seeking, I did go on to learn some very useful stuff here anyway from other members - thanks.

I'm not a mechanic... just an average guy with little experience of working on cars... but wanting to save a bit of cash.

And seeing as I've recently done an oil change and oil filter change on a 9N polo, I thought maybe if I put together a DIY Guide of my own it might prove helpful to others. It's not advanced (because I'm no mechanic) but I reckon this DIY Guide will give some idea of how to do it.

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Disclaimer: This is a general guide only and only covers the steps I personally took in order to do an oil and oil filter change. It is not a comprehensive expert guide. I will not be held responsible or liable to you or any other person for any loss or damage. If in doubt, seek expert professional assistance.
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a) I took the car out for a 4 minute drive to get it warmed up. Didn't rag it. Just to get it to operating temperature. When the engine oil is hot/warm it will flow much better/faster out of the sump compared to cold oil.

b) I undid the the bonnet catch but didn't fully raise up bonnet. Then you need to get your car safely lifted up. (I borrowed ramps / wheel chocs and had some axle stands in place as a final backup). Consult other guides about raising your vehicle to work under if you are unsure. Absolutely make sure it's safely up and take as many precautions as possible. I had a friend with me as I believe you should never get under a car when it's on axle stands / ramps without having someone about to check all is well.

c) The 9N Polo I was doing the oil / oil filter change on belongs to my sister. I have a Golf. Looking at the engine bay of her 9N I couldn't see any sign of the oil filter from above. Therefore I guessed it would be accessed from below. I've got a range of oil filter removal tools (more later).

d) So with the car lifted up, time to get under it and find the sump plug and the filter.

Sump plug.



e) Now had to shuffle forward to the front end of the sump, where I then caught sight of the oil-filter (through a gap).



f)It probably has a distinct name of it's own... but there was some black moulded guard in place which restricted space access to the oil filter.

Black moulded guard.



Perhaps it's possible to remove the oil filter without removing the black moulded guard, but I couldn't see how... so I removed the guard.

Easy process... 3 torx screws (don't know size... perhaps T20?) on the left hand side, and 3 torx screws on the right hand side of the guard... and it drops down and slides out easy.





g) Time to remove sump plug. I had a ratchet and socket set... don't know the size of socket.. one of the biggest in my set. However I fitted that socket straight to a breaker bar (instead of ratchet) to get extra leverage (cause I'm weak) to just budge the sump plug initially.




If you don't have a breaker bar and your sump plug doesn't move because it's been fitted too tight (bad for thread) a solid hollow tube slipped over ratchet handle would give the extra leverage too.

Lefty loosey - Righty tighty.



When I took the breaker bar/socket to the sump plug... turned fractionally anti-clockwise, and with no effort it moved.. and then could continue to undo using my gloved finger and thumb.

(Use GLOVES - to protect your hands from hot/warm oil, and because oil is considered carcinogenic by many people)


h) As the sump plug worked itself free with my finger and thumb, I offered up my catch tray in expectation of a flow of oil. First a few drips of oil... and then as the sump plug pop out comes a big stream of old engine oil gushing out from the sump.

(Didn't take photos of full stream oil escaping as was busy ensuring it was all going in to catch tray)



Lower catch tray and allow to drain - including the all the slow drips.

Lift bonnet and secure it. Then undo the oil cap and remove the dipstick. This should allow even more old oil to be drained out of the sump. Continue to allow old oil to drain/drip to an amount of time of your discretion.

i) I wasn't looking forward to this part... the oil filter.

I already purchased a new VW oil filter to go on the 9N, and had tried it will some of my existing oil filter removal tools.

I found my VAG Parts "3417 oil filter removal cap/tool" was too big. It didn't fit snug on the filter.

There didn't seem to be enough room to use any of those 3 leg claw oil-filter removal tools either (I tried.. couldn't find the room). So I used a cheap cap I'd bought ages ago...

Size: 76mm
Flutes: 14
Applications: BMW, Champion, Mercedes, Porsche, VAG

Available from many places such as here. (or even Halfords when in stock).

Here is my 3417 (the silver one on the left of photo) next to the Halfords style oil filter removal cap (black one).



I've never used the 3417 (as yet) but notice how it has a deeper socket at the top compared to the black one.

Yet with the black oil filter removal cap.. when fitted to an extension bar / socket... it locks firmly as you would expect.... but...



..when the socket/extension bar is fitted/locked to the cap... it protrudes inside the cap!



Am I doing something incredibly stupid here - or do I need a different type of extension bar end?

The problem this design gives me is when you put the cap on the filter.. you can't get a firm grip because the extension bit protrudes too much inside - pushing against the filter and not allowing the cap to grip. Push cap on with more force and the extension bar gets pushed back out of the cap....

So I ended up having to balance my breaker bar/ratchet-extension inside the lip of the cap.. not fully fitted/locked... very awkward really.. but it did the job, although awkwardly.

It's important to turn the old oil filter the correct way. You obviously don't want to tighten it further when your trying to remove it.

I was still facing the sump plug... with my breaker bar/extension... and therefore needed to turn clockwise to undo the old filter. Turning around so my head was facing the front wheels.. it would be anti-clockwise to undo the old oil filter.

Have something ready to catch the oil from the old filter as it begins to undo from it's thread. It will drip out.. but not anywhere near much as when the sump plug was undone.

After my old oil filter came free from it's thread.... I was stumped on how to get it fully out. The oil filter removal cap had bonded itself to the top but I got it free by knocking it a few times. Even then though.. I couldn't see how to get the old filter out and was considering undoing some other things to get access to get it fully out (wasn't happy at this point) and went for a coffee and a pause to think.



Came back to it... turned it this way and that.. and suddenly the old oil filter decided to slip free through a gap and out in to my hands. (Can't remember how, but in a certain position it just comes straight out of a gap of all the pipes and fixings that surround it)

j) With both the sump plug removed.. and the old oil filter fully removed.. I don't know if there is any "best" order to putting the new stuff back. Perhaps someone has a best order here?

However.. I put in a new oil-filter first.

First dip a finger (preferably gloved) in to the catch tray of your old engine oil. Then wipe the whole circular seal of the new oil filter with that old oil. This will help ensure this new oil filter doesn't bond too firmly in place for next time when you come to remove it.

A lot of people prefer to fill their new oil filter up with some fresh oil before putting it on - apparently it helps prevent engine wear for that first moment as it fill up. However I didn't do this cause it was awkward to fit the new oil filter through the gaps and back to the thread... being on it side and all... and also it's not my car.

OK... to continue..

I fitted my new oil-filter hand tight. Then took the breaker bar / ratchet / oil filter cap and gave it another quarter turn. I'm comfortable that will be ok, but if in doubt, seek out exact torque or something.

Fit new sump plug / new crusher washer.

Do not over-tighten new sump plug (best not to reuse old sump plug). I just put sump plug in hand tight and gave it about a quarter turn (although check torque from a manual if in doubt). A rule I tend to stick with is "tighten snug and quarter turn more"

l) Get on some step-ladder (or alternative), and pour in fresh new oil (correct grade) with funnel. I don't know specified amount for a 1.4 9N, so guessed at 3.75 litres (?). Possibly best to know exact amount - so try find from alternative source. Have someone check if any leaks when you fill.

m) Re-fit black moulded guard. (mine slid back easy in to position then just fit back three torx screws either side).

n) Have a cup of coffee or tea - I don't advise drinking alcohol when you'll be working under a car as might impair judgement. Then go and check again for any leaks from new oil filter / new sump plug.

o) Bring car back down in a careful way.

p) Clean dipstick with rag - fit dipstick - wait 15 or so seconds... check oil level. If unhappy with level top-up.. but caution not to overfill as overfilling with oil can cause damage to catalytic converter... and keep in mind reading might not be fully accurate until engine started and had chance to drive out and oil go through system.

q) IMPORTANT. Old engine oil is an absolute killer for the environment if not carefully disposed of.

If 1 Litre of old engine oil was poured on to the ground it spreads out to do miles of damage to the earth/environment/, and depending on where you live, pollutes the water table. Think of the environment, people/children, animals, insects.... don't pour old engine oil on to the earth.

Similarly it's nearly as bad if poured down a drain. I'm not sure if it's against the law to pour old engine oil down the drains (it might well be - and if it isn't, it should be). Old engine oil can cause loads of ££££ damage and just pollutes everything up.

Old engine oil has to be disposed of in an environmentally friendly way.

Old local rubbish tip has a old engine recycling point - and I think most of them do these days. Simply poured the remainder of my fresh and new 5 Litre bottle (fresh oil) into an empty 1 Litre top up bottle... then poured the old engine oil from the catch tray by use of a funnel in to the 5 Litre bottle and took it for recycling. (It can be made in to heating oil).

Also they will take your old oil filter - as that shouldn't be thrown in household waste either.

You can check where you nearest recycling centre for old engine oil is here:



http://www.recyclenow.com/what_more_can ... e_oil.html

Edited May 2009 by Capo: Reason: Old photos had been removed from source, so uploaded to new host and added the new hotlinks to photos.

[Tim_GTi]

Welcome to the site mate, nice way to start with a good guide!!

[RUM4MO]

Getting the oil filter of the petrol engines is a bit of a PITA, I seemed to manage it quite easily when the car was 18 months old, but have cursed this task every year since then! I tend to remove it from above and just use a socket, maybe short extension and a ratchet. I do tend to prime the filter before fitting it but its not easy and is always a bit messy - and spining the new filter on while new oil is running down the filter is a bit of a challenge. I'm always a bit wary about making contact with an exposed electrical terminal when doing this job. The correct way to approach refilling, if an hour or so is left after the oil stops flowing from the drain point, is to measure in the quoted sump quantity less 0.5 litre > refit filler cap > wipe and check oil level on dip stick (it should be on the stick) > start engine and run it for maybe 5 minutes - during this period check for leaks at drain plug and oil filter > stop engine > wait 30 minutes > recheck oil level and add oil in 0.5 litre quantities then confirm that oil level is near max level. One final point, is this car not one of these ones that is prone to spraying its oil everywhere if you just quickly remove the plug when the oil is hot, if so, then you might need to hold up something for the oil to deflect off down into the waste oil container before it hits something like a vertical face and makes a real mess. On the matter of waste disposal, I've always collected oil my oil and used filters and taken them to my local council yard - the only problem now is that they ask me to put the filter into a general skip - not so good!! The original waste oil "station" had a storage area above it for the used filters and empty oil containers - but not now - just a dodgy old tank! I've just re-read the original posting and I reckon the car, if the engine is cold, would need a 15 minute run to get the system up to temperature and make sure any "stuff" is freely circulating with the oil so that as much of this "stuff" gets brought out with the waste oil. Also a couple of solid wooden homemade ramps with a long slow rise would save the underside from damage and make this task safer. Maybe fit out the car with 4 TT jacking point protectors and make up contoured blocks to fix to the axle stands so that the car is supported in the correct way - if you don't want to use ramps.

[capo]

Welcome to the site mate, nice way to start with a good guide!!

Cheers Tim.

Getting the oil filter of the petrol engines is a bit of a PITA, I seemed to manage it quite easily when the car was 18 months old, but have cursed this task every year since then! I tend to remove it from above and just use a socket, maybe short extension and a ratchet. I do tend to prime the filter before fitting it but its not easy and is always a bit messy - and spining the new filter on while new oil is running down the filter is a bit of a challenge. I'm always a bit wary about making contact with an exposed electrical terminal when doing this job. The correct way to approach refilling, if an hour or so is left after the oil stops flowing from the drain point, is to measure in the quoted sump quantity less 0.5 litre > refit filler cap > wipe and check oil level on dip stick (it should be on the stick) > start engine and run it for maybe 5 minutes - during this period check for leaks at drain plug and oil filter > stop engine > wait 30 minutes > recheck oil level and add oil in 0.5 litre quantities then confirm that oil level is near max level. One final point, is this car not one of these ones that is prone to spraying its oil everywhere if you just quickly remove the plug when the oil is hot, if so, then you might need to hold up something for the oil to deflect off down into the waste oil container before it hits something like a vertical face and makes a real mess. On the matter of waste disposal, I've always collected oil my oil and used filters and taken them to my local council yard - the only problem now is that they ask me to put the filter into a general skip - not so good!! The original waste oil "station" had a storage area above it for the used filters and empty oil containers - but not now - just a dodgy old tank! I've just re-read the original posting and I reckon the car, if the engine is cold, would need a 15 minute run to get the system up to temperature and make sure any "stuff" is freely circulating with the oil so that as much of this "stuff" gets brought out with the waste oil. Also a couple of solid wooden homemade ramps with a long slow rise would save the underside from damage and make this task safer. Maybe fit out the car with 4 TT jacking point protectors and make up contoured blocks to fix to the axle stands so that the car is supported in the correct way - if you don't want to use ramps.

Lots of interesting points there RUM4MO. Good info - especially the procedure you have on refilling with fresh oil / check leak bit I found useful.

The amount of contradictory info I've read about jacking with a trolley jack on Golfs, and pictures of damage I've seen as a result (to the floor pan or sill), makes me wary of jacking. Even with those jacking point protectors I've read some info that they are only protectors for jacking on a proper workshop lift, and not trolley jack protectors as such - so now I don't know what to think.

Not using a jack though does limit me to not being able to do brake fluid changes - but I don't care. Being able to do oil and oil filter is enough for me (together with spark plugs, air filter, pollen filter ect).

BTW - a 30 mm open jaw spanner (big) can also be used to tackle the filter, at least on the 9N model I changed my sister's oil filter on, and my own Golf oil filter too.

Yeah you can't use standard ramps, at least not on my Golf nor on the 9N Polo that easily cause the front end hits the ramp before the wheels get to the ramps... unless you make some kind of low-profile run-up - but I have no confidence in the stability of those.

I toyed with the idea of home-made wooden ramps, but bottled it in the end. Got the designs all worked out but the guy at the wood-merchants (for house builders) thought it was an insane idea. Thankfully my mate has some ezup ramps I borrowed.

I might buy myself some Rhino Ramps as apparently those are ok for low-profile cars, lightweight and easy to store compared to ezup ramps, but they are about £65 from the only distributor I've found in the UK. Still, pay for themselves after a couple of oil changes, and personally I prefer ramps to axle stands alone (but I place reserve axle stands under as well as a backup measure).

[RUM4MO]

The reason I was advocating using a socket and short extension to loosen off the oil filter was that using that method you can move the "handle" out to a position that suits the installation - using a open or ring spanner does tie you to be where the spanner ends up - and probably fouling things. I've actually made up two pairs of solid wooden ramps so I can get the whole car up about a foot off the ground. Using the TT jacking point protectors seems okay on the Polo, and probably okay on the Golf if you use a trolley jack at both sides while raising it - but I would not try fitting them to the Passat, I just use a padded wooden block on top of the jacks to spread the load. On a serious note though, after a road spring broke at half height on my wife's Polo while reversing out of the garage, I can see the sense in using axle stands with the stepped protector I mentioned in a previous posting as these car drop a lot when that happens! I've considered one of these pit liners but not done any more than consider one! One final point, the recovery services just use a resilient block on the jack and jack at the strong points on the welded sill - had that done once when a stone got jammed in the front disc and the AA beat me to sorting it out - there was no damage to the car.

[whitegtipolo]

i work for the AA as a patrol man, and have never damaged a sill with the trolly jack , as long as you jack up in the correct place! As for ramps i have some from the local "screw fix" store and i can get my GTI up on them np probs! http://www.screwfix.com/search.do;jsess ... ps&x=0&y=0

[clarkson]

very good guide pal!!! i will be using this on saturday!!


thanks

[stevan]

i've had a few VW's/Audi's in the past , all oil filter's have normaly been in a good place to reach but not on my 2001 polo 1.4 16v SE.. right between Exhaust and Allternator you ""T W A T !!"" Still 30mm socket did the trick! and Now running on Clean Oil!!

[smithysmoo]

Where do you get them futomovalves from????

[RUM4MO]

Each to their own, but for me, without meaning to hurt anyone, I'd give this additional bit of metal a miss as it is just something else to hit off something and/or go wrong. Remember this is a job that you will probably only carry out once a year, by using the VAG simple plug and washer you know that it is safe and not likely to get tampered with! These convenient taps are really meant for when you might want to drop the oil every week or so on stationary plant running 24/7. Plus I'd reckon that the effective open aperture of that tap is a lot less than the simple VAG plug and washer opening - so the oil will not tend to flush out what is lying on the lower face/end of the sump.

[RUM4MO]

i've had a few VW's/Audi's in the past , all oil filter's have normaly been in a good place to reach but not on my 2001 polo 1.4 16v SE.. right between Exhaust and Allternator you ""T W A T !!"" Still 30mm socket did the trick! and Now running on Clean Oil!!

While I'm on this forum - YES! Someone certainly was having a bit of a laugh.

[ghorne]

pffft oil filet remover. Just f**k a screwdriver through it with a hammer and unscrew it