polo 2007 brake shoe adjustment
polo 2007 brake shoe adjustment
Hi, I have a 2007 polo 1.2 The handbrake cables have no adjustment left and handbrake is extremely high. I checked both sides shoes and they are pretty much new with absolutely minimal wear. I noticed there is no adjuster wheel mechanism within brake shoes unlike pretty much every other car I have worked on. Is this correct and is only adjustment via handbrake cables in cab ?
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alexperkins
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Re: polo 2007 brake shoe adjustment
They are self adjusting. You may need to reset the mechanism as it doesn't sound like it's taking up the slack properly. Have you got a Haynes manual?
Re: polo 2007 brake shoe adjustment
Hi No I dont have hayne's manual for polo. I have taken the shoes apart though and cannot see any means of adjustment. You would normally refit the drum with shoes just starting to drag on them but don't see a way to attain that within the parts set up. What does Haynes suggest ? I can see about inch and half uneven handbrake cable length in cab so next step was to replace cables but still need to understand what self adjustment you are refer to within the drum as cannot see it.
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alexperkins
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Re: polo 2007 brake shoe adjustment
http://workshop-manuals.com/volkswagen/ ... l/install/
There's the workshop manual page
There's the workshop manual page
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2015_polo
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Re: polo 2007 brake shoe adjustment
The polos do have an adjuster it's not a wheel il attach a picture , the pin has a hole in it for the spring I use a filed down screwdriver and push the pin all the way up this takes off the adjustment then fit the drums and then insert the screwdriver through a bolt hole and bring the adjuster down a few clicks until the shoes start to drag 
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Re: polo 2007 brake shoe adjustment
I know this is an old thread but thought that I'd add a further comment for the sake of anyone referring to it due to non-adjustment.
(1) Check that the wheel cylinder piston on the adjuster-wedge side is free/moving. If it is seized, the auto-adjuster won't work even if the other piston is working.
(2) Check that the adjusting wedge is fitted the correct way around. It has a small 'pip' on one side and this must face away from you (i.e. towards the backplate/centreline of the car). If it faces the shoe/drum then it won't adjust.
(3) Check the wedge is clean. It can be removed without dismantling the shoes. Just disconnect the adjuster spring (i.e. the vertical one), ease off a bit of pressure by moving the shoe away from the piston and pop the wedge up and out.
(4) After fitting the drum and pressing the brake pedal, make sure that the shoes have centred themselves in the drum correctly. The easiest way to do this is a few hammer taps on the backplate and drum to shock the shoes into position.
A couple of extra bits:
You can test whether the adjusting mechanism is working while the drum is off. Have somebody gently press the brake pedal while you hold the non-adjusted shoe to stop it moving. As the piston and shoe on the adjuster side moves out, you should see the adjuster wedge drop and hear it click. NB Make sure that the brake pedal isn't pushed too far - you don't want to pop the piston out. You will have to push the wedge back up afterwards to give clearance to refit the drum.
In case you are reassembling the shoes and springs and referring to the photograph above, please note that there are two ways that the supporting spring was fitted. It can go either as in the photograph: on a diagonal, passing through the actuator rod; or if the actuator rod does not have a cut-out for the spring to pass through, it goes horizontally along the upper face of the actuator rod.
If all else fails and you are still left with poor brakes, a temporary fix is to have someone press the brake pedal (drum on). Pop a spike (bradall, long nail or screw, etc.) through a wheel bolt hole and engage in the aduster wedge spring hole and push or lever it down. Wiggling it from side to side can help walk it down if it isn't moving but at this point you should really be trying to identify why it isn't moving. This can be done with the wheel on - just remove one wheel bolt for access, though you will need a longer spike.
(1) Check that the wheel cylinder piston on the adjuster-wedge side is free/moving. If it is seized, the auto-adjuster won't work even if the other piston is working.
(2) Check that the adjusting wedge is fitted the correct way around. It has a small 'pip' on one side and this must face away from you (i.e. towards the backplate/centreline of the car). If it faces the shoe/drum then it won't adjust.
(3) Check the wedge is clean. It can be removed without dismantling the shoes. Just disconnect the adjuster spring (i.e. the vertical one), ease off a bit of pressure by moving the shoe away from the piston and pop the wedge up and out.
(4) After fitting the drum and pressing the brake pedal, make sure that the shoes have centred themselves in the drum correctly. The easiest way to do this is a few hammer taps on the backplate and drum to shock the shoes into position.
A couple of extra bits:
You can test whether the adjusting mechanism is working while the drum is off. Have somebody gently press the brake pedal while you hold the non-adjusted shoe to stop it moving. As the piston and shoe on the adjuster side moves out, you should see the adjuster wedge drop and hear it click. NB Make sure that the brake pedal isn't pushed too far - you don't want to pop the piston out. You will have to push the wedge back up afterwards to give clearance to refit the drum.
In case you are reassembling the shoes and springs and referring to the photograph above, please note that there are two ways that the supporting spring was fitted. It can go either as in the photograph: on a diagonal, passing through the actuator rod; or if the actuator rod does not have a cut-out for the spring to pass through, it goes horizontally along the upper face of the actuator rod.
If all else fails and you are still left with poor brakes, a temporary fix is to have someone press the brake pedal (drum on). Pop a spike (bradall, long nail or screw, etc.) through a wheel bolt hole and engage in the aduster wedge spring hole and push or lever it down. Wiggling it from side to side can help walk it down if it isn't moving but at this point you should really be trying to identify why it isn't moving. This can be done with the wheel on - just remove one wheel bolt for access, though you will need a longer spike.