Significant side-to-side movement of handbrake on 2016 Polo

[R826583]

I have requested access! Thank you greatly for sharing them. erWin just isn’t having it with me

[R826583]

It’s out!

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[ciclo]

Cool!

[R826583]

I’ve got them downloaded from Google Drive now. Thank you!

I had really good success with taking out the interior + seats to clean today:

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It’s all back together now:

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I wonder why VW uses metal that develops this rust over time:

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It’s really annoying to see when they should have coated it or used a different metal that is more rust resistant. Is there anything I should do to treat this surface rust?

I noticed this panel for the passenger footwell storage compartment was not clipped onto anything:

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Does it look like it’s missing a clip on the body?

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Unrelated, but I had a brief interaction with my neighbour and I was talking to him about changing spark plugs and he said to never torque spark plugs with a torque wrench and insisted on doing it by hand. This sounds wrong to me, right?

[amer6R]

@ciclo thank you for granting access

[ciclo]

@ciclo thank you for granting access

[Mikeso51]

Hi Ciclo

Many thanks for making the Erwin files available.

I have just downloaded all 109 files, and it only took about 5 minutes. Fantastic resource.

Thanks again

Mike

[ciclo]

Good job R!
A very rewarding job for at least a couple of days.

That rust is known to us.
I think like you, I believe that it begins to originate at the moment in which the visible welding is made, although logically it is not visible at that moment.
Whatever method you use to remove/clean it, remember that it is an interior part and that harmful/unpleasant odors will subsequently be produced from any product you use when the vehicle is closed. So don't put too much effort into the process of removing that rust, put more effort into cleaning it.

That lower A-pillar panel/trim is held in place by two clips. Each clip consists of two parts. They have a tendency to get lost.
3C0867333

[ciclo]

Hi Ciclo

Many thanks for making the Erwin files available.

I have just downloaded all 109 files, and it only took about 5 minutes. Fantastic resource.

Thanks again

Mike

(109 elements = 108 files + 1 folder with 3 files = 111 files)

[RUM4MO]

I agree that seeing these parts, which tend only to be dashboard stiffeners, with surface rusting is annoying, why the welding sites could not have been cleaned up and these parts have their top coating/treatment carried out AFTER the welding>cleaning is an unanswered question, though as said already, this rusting will never ever end up being any more than cosmetic and annoying when discovered for the first time.

Tightening sparkplugs, okay someone that has worked for many years on older cars with the usual/older compression ring seal/gasket and only tightening them into a steel cylinder, would feel confident in never using a torque wrench, but most newer cars have alloy cylinder heads and either taper seat sparkplugs, or very long thread with compression seal/gasket - or now a thick copper flat solid sealing ring - so I'll continue to use a torque wrench and always make sure that I'm using the recommended(by VW Group and others) torque value - it just makes sense to me really.

[R826583]

Thank you! Though, I couldn’t have done it without your help with the disassembly process

I think I’m probably going to leave the rusted bits. Attempting to clean them is probably more trouble than it’s worth.

The part number for the clips looks to be right. I’ll get some ordered because like you said they appear to have vanished.

I’ll make sure to use the torque wrench then. It makes sense to do so. Is there a recommendation for the silicone paste that is applied to the ignition coil? I can get the VW brand one (20 grams) for $60AUD but this seems crazily expensive. Will a generic dielectric grease or silicone paste work? I see that VW talks about a silicone paste so maybe I should make sure I buy silicone paste and not dielectric grease.

—

On another note, what is the image number for the bolt that holds the black part of the door assembly? I searched through the whole of group 8 (body) on ETKA so I must be overlooking it.

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[ciclo]

[R826583]

I was looking for something that resembled how the door is assembled, as in the black connector and bolt attached to the side of the door. I quickly ruled it out as being inside the door due to its position when I was going through the images!

It’s a little unclear to me why they put it there in the schematic

[ciclo]

Normally these artists of automotive parts are crazy or like to make jokes, sometimes they make drawings that are real labyrinths...
Don't worry, you'll get better at deciphering the pictures over time.

[RUM4MO]

For the silicon paste to apply around the lower end of the coil connector, I've just bought normal dielectric grease, strangely described as "tune up" grease, it tends to come in small tubes, though it should last a few years with spark plug changes at 4 years on my wife's Polo, older daughter's Leon Cupra and younger daughter's Arona.

So far, I've not managed to find any company marketing their own branded equivalent - so VW Group is still the sole supplier for that if you want to use silicon paste as opposed to silicon grease, and yes the price is seriously crazy for the home mechanic.

I'm guessing that you know that this paste/grease is only needed to stop the "rubber" of the coil seizing/fixing itself to the insulator body of the spark plugs, the concern will be that if you don't apply something, then when you remove a coil, the lower section, which should stay assembled onto the coil, will get left behind on the spark plug - this lower section is known as the connector and is available as a separate spare part by the way. So, when/if that happens, the normal fix will be to either grab the top of that connector assembly with long nosed pliers and "rip" it out and if it is too damaged, buy a new connector and fit that to the coil, or if it is still okay to re-use it, refit it to the coil - I bought a "working but used" coil very cheaply just to have to separate these 2 parts and see how they re-fit again - but I've put that coil in a "safe place" - so I can't comment on how easy it is to get these 2 parts back together at the moment! Workshops or any home mechanic that owns an air compressor seem to just apply some pressurised air down the centre of the connector and that breaks the bond between the rubber connector and insulator on the spark plug - and maybe even eject the connector enough to make getting it out completely very easy and so damage free.

I've replaced the factory fitted spark plugs in my wife's 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI and the coils came off okay - I used a proper tool that fits/fixes to the coils, on fitting the new spark plugs, I "repositioned" the silicon paste that was on the coils and refitted them. I later bought a small tube of dielectric grease and used small amounts of that to "reinforce" what was on the connectors of my younger daughter's 2019 SEAT Arona 1.0TSI 115PS. I still need to fit new spark plugs to my older daughter's 2019 SEAT Leon Cupra 2.0TSI, so I'll be using more of that small tube of dielectric grease on that car's connectors as I see that SEAT advise its use on that car as well.