UK-POLOS.NET - THE VW Polo Forum

Hello and merry Christmas.

This is the adaptation of the Ergoactive Seats to my golf…..

No coding needed. Only use a positive and negative wire. The seats came from Poland without airbags. Only change the airbags from my seats to the Ergoactive Seats. Sliding in the airbag module needs almost total removal of the seats fabric cover.

Hi all. Merry Christmas

Regarding the installation of the Soundaktor I have noticed a drop in the battery level of the vehicle. I have also noticed that a noise is activated inside the hood of the engine that could be what other users identify when making this mod as a gasoline pump.

Has anyone had problems with this adaptation?

Merry Christmas

Someone reported about vibrations (weird noise).
If you flexed the car sheet metal too much to be able to insert the two screws, try returning the sheet metal to its original condition, as straight as possible.

I didn't have these problems, but I checked anyway after reading it.
I have no problem with the battery after installing the soundaktor.


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Please Carolco, try to use links instead of capturing images from other places without permission of the owner, it is not the correct way to do things, unless you really want to damage the place where the images come from ...
By using images from other places your reports are confusing.

Try to use only and exclusively images that are your property, from your car.
Thank you!!

A hug!

Good morning Fernando.

My apologies if I use other people's images. In some steps of the adaptation, I did not take graphic proofs and when I saw them from other users I like to complete the sequence of the steps with those photos. but with no intention of offending its owners. I reiterate my sincere apologies if they have been upset.

With regard to the Soundaktor, the problem of vibrations was detected and solved by putting adhesive felt to the screw and washers (1) holding the loudspeaker to the structure, both above and below. thus eliminate the vibration. The fastening to the metal plate of the motor (2) was done by placing the screws backwards and I managed to tighten it with a washer. It holds up well without bending the sheet, which I can't.

The problem that I mention is that the gasoline pump, from what was said in other forums, is activated sequentially every so often, approximately 10 seconds. What I perceive is a fine sound, and there has been a drastic drop in the capacity of the battery. Yesterday I measured and it was 38%. The sound is tested with car stoped and with the car closed and locked….

As a power outlet, use a F28 socket, with a 10 amp fuse, and the connection to the motor bus about 3 cm from the connector near the bonnet lever.

This is where I splice the two cables coming from the Soundaktor. Also comment that no failure is recorded in any related unit.

Good Morning.

Here is the configuration for footwell lights for golf 7.5. All the modifications are done in the adaptations of unit 9 (BCM).

The hardware for installation was get positive from body BCM C pin 72, and negative to the chasis in the fuse box zone for example.

The codification can be modified, but this is the stock version.

Another interesting modification. The warning lights in the front doors. The PIN number 5 is the negative, and can be used for other ambients lights….

My sincere thanks to Slavik for his help in solving the problem with the Soundaktor.

I made a mistake when assigning the positive fuse F28 which is Terminal 30, instead of the one corresponding to this installation which is F34.

The reason was not to touch other fuse snatches that it had on.

It has been better to clean up the installation and leave everything in better order. The fuse according to VW should be 7.5 amps. This is terminal 15.

hello everyone.

Installing rear door lights. Positive signed with blue arrow, and negative signed with yellow arrow.

But i have a little stumble when the door is closed. In photo can see a little bit of light is on.....

Can anyone solved ? May be with a 1k ohm resistor ? It is the better solution ?

Low quality lamp, poor electrical installation, or the polarity in the lamp connector is not correct.
You do not provide enough information... images of your work, or type of lamp used.

When the parts are not 100% OEM, the polarity of the lamp, as well as the circuit design of the lamp should be checked before installing the lamp. There are many copies of parts that have the numbering for wires assignment different from the original.

If the lamp is LED "OEM", it already has the appropriate resistance in the circuit... never install additional resistors in current vehicles electrical circuits, install the appropriate parts.

Diagrams:
viewtopic.php?p=583390#p583390

Thanks Fernando.

The problem was the lamp. It was a old lamp buyed in eBay two years ago….. And stay with a little bright when the door is closed. And still with the car closed. I don’t like it.

Now I have used one led of red colour, and now bright so nice. The led are the same I used for the footwell lights. It have 6 points of red light. And it shut down perfect when the door is closed. Tomorrow I will take some pictures of this installation. Only in one side, because I don’t have to much time for my hobby.

And I change the plate lights, with white led canbus. It works so great.

Tomorrow the photos…..

The photos….

Looking great, well done.

Thanks so much.

This are the leds I have used for the footwell lights and the rear door exit lights.

I have used a six focal point red led. and I have kept the cover, which is the original one that comes on the rear door. The cover is red as well.