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Thanks for the confirmation

I "have" the right equipment, in the form of a three leg honing tool, question is can I use the tools correctly ?

Seems like I should get some rings ordered, but I should probably get the head off & use my bore micrometer to confirm all is within the specs for a ...

It's been a while since I came on here. Not been doing anything with the Gti's, but I thought I would drop in & at least say Hi Alex. :)

One of the cars had a head gasket problem, which I fixed, but in the process I decided to do the jab "a bit better" & did a light hone in situ.

Long story short ...

Any news ?

Fuse 30 is nothing to do with starting

Have you got this sorted-seems nothing more than a flat battery TBH

No reply to my earlier suggestions, so that would be my suggested starting point. Of course many things could have been done over the past 18 months

Bit late, but I'll try.

The door locks are pneumatic

A leak means the mechanism won't move correctly. They also suffer from corrosion in the control module in front of the right rear lights. One of my early posts showed how to stop that happening

When you open the drivers door you should hear the fuel pump prime.... quite a clever invention by VW.

On the stalling when cold, I would be looking for an air leak somewhere on the induction side, look around the intake manifold for rubber pipes cracked etc, or for a loose connection on the ...

What are you using as a scan tool ?

Very unusual to be able to read ABS codes and not the standard OBD codes......

Likely it is one of two things:

Poor / corroded connection on the starter or earth straps
Ignition switch on its way out.

Cleaning connections is an easy start, after that disconnect the soleniod connection and see what voltage you are seeing to the starter.

Mine passed - it was delivered to the MOT station fully warmed up

No it isn't one of the daily cars any more....... I have a replacement so I can do this at my leisure, but I should get it done before the MOT runs out. It's a lovely go kart to drive

That's the alternate, not sure about thick though......... rope down move piston up to compress against the valves, remove, replace, rotate engine backwards, remove rope.

Quicker than a video isn't it

Well, before fitting another engine I would certainly look at doing the valve stem oil seals.

The traditional way is head off, remove all valves, refurb with new seals, grind valves in maybe after doing valve guides.

Modern way: head remains in place, valve springs removed using a top mount ...

Wow, hydraulic locking with a rod chucked out the side for good measure. Looks like the puddle was also called the Thames estuary :)

If you are fitting new rings then the bore should be honed. That's a surface finish treatment, not material removal so the same pistons are fine. If you don't hone ...

My thread stops short of the swap back of the original head after being machined flat. I'm quite quick at doing head swaps now.

A compression test is of course possible, as is a leak test. However I don't think they will help with diagnosis as the compression test is really about the seal between ...