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I agree. The only thing I want back as physical switches is the TPMS reset switch and the ESP disabling switch. They moved into an infotainment menu with the 6C where the 6R usually had them as switches.
Oh, and also the instrument cluster illumination dimmer is in the infotainment unit. Was more ...

To add...how did I get to that conclusion/assumption?

Looking at ETKA for that rear axle, the only combination with 0N7 is when the vehicle has 1KT or 1KV which indicates rear discs. The mounting tabs for the caliper are part of the axle. Don't need those for drums. So to me, 0N2 = for drum setup ...

Both are "heavy duty".
0N2 = Heavy-duty rear axle
0N7 = Heavy-duty rear axle (design 2)

6R0 500 051 B = 0N2
6R0 500 051 C = 0N7

Difference probably only in the bushing used and whether the car had disc brakes.
Would just get a axle off a vehicle with rear disc brakes (GTI / Cross Polo). Not sure ...

There was also Erwin, good for manuals and electrical, but that has now been shut down for private use by VW.
I missed out on getting the wiring diagrams.

For part listings I tend to use DLinker app. https://ifinterface.com/page/page3.php
Or https://webautocats.com

I have a ton of repair manuals ...

Please post a link here if you have it.

Ok, odd. Every kit I've seen has it. Might be for the FSI motors. They also have a different rear lock tool.
I'd still mark things up. From videos I've seen, the exhaust cam always jumps back a bit.

Ok, got it.
The lock is on gearbox side. Pulleys can move regardless since the cams stay still.

Does the tool kit you have no have the pulley lock as well? That little red lock tool.

Good to know.
I suppose I should have pulled up the repair document for this.
Does seem a bit odd though. Or at least in my mind it means the cams move.

Also, why do you have the intake and exhaust pulley bolts on your list?
You going to pull off the pulleys?
Don't recall that being needed since the cams are locked.

It probably has Kevlar in the belt.

I'm subscribing to this topic.
Timing belt change on these modern cars scares me and I can't afford the labour fees around here, but luckily the CJZD is single cam phaser and doesn't require the expensive timing tool like the other EA211 with exhaust cam phaser ...

Darn it. Ok, I'll cut back on the doom scrolling and bright ideas.

Or, WTH, should I just go for it?

Boring Saturday google-induced doom scrolling question incoming....

Does one have to remove the subframe to remove the front swaybar?

I'm scouring marketplace for junk cars to see what I can grab off of them. 6C GTI swaybar came to mind. I have a 19mm, it has a 20mm.

My coolant bottle also looking yellow. It's just the plastic aging. Heat cycling and engine bay heat will do that.

You think those rubber barriers will affect air flow into the engine bay?

Also, don't worry about your engine bay, it is spotless...

Unlike this:
That was probably 2 years ago and I'm still finding bits of mud on the car.

Nice idea on the rubber 'D' seals.
How dusty does Turkey get?

I have cleaned my engine bay a couple of times, but the thing never really gets too dirty. Only real problem spots is the frame rails under the battery, etc.

I still want to do a proper clean from underneath and then apply Koch-Chemie ...