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haha totally wrong then. I was thinking put it there just to get past the thread lock and then get the nut up so it pulls in the shaft.

Thanks for clarifying

Dan

alexperkins wrote:Mole grips will work trust me

Just so I'm clear - you put the grips on the tie rod shaft itself, just under the rubber boot on the smooth tapered bit, above the hub?

it's completely doing my head it - going to try and mole grip it tomorrow. Right now I can't even get the new nut back off, it's that bad!

A sharp whack with a lump hammer won't even get it seated evil:

Had to angle grind the s**t out - nightmare.

What's the best way to stop the tie rod end spinning - I can't tighten the nut up even after smacking it into hub - the thread lock on the nut is creating the resistance making the tapered shaft of the ball joint spin.

What's the way to hold it whilst the nut tightens?

going to jack it up and bash an irwin nut remover socket over it, i think. i'm certain it's the tension and the eccentric part of the shaft being in the wrong place that is causing my issue, if that fails i'll heat her up. thanks, Dan PS can be hit from nut side but i'm not sure it'd help if the lum...

alexperkins wrote:Your link isn't working Dan

Can you post a picture of the culprit bolt in position?

i can't get a picture as my car is on bricks away from my home address.

It's in the top strut bolt hole (exactly the same as the normal bolt would be) and is rotated to add or subtract camber.

Can anyone lend me some advice? i have the nut off the camber bolt but it won't budge - i reckon the fact its the only thing holding the hub on to the strut isn't helping so i'm going to put the bottom bolt back in and stick a jack under the arm. The bolt head is completely rounded so I'm also going...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AUDI-VW-VOLKSWAGON-SEAT-BRAKE-CALIPER-SLIDE-GUIDE-SLEEVE-PIN-KIT-/281121478410?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item417425570a Thats a slide pin kit which should be suitable - thought I would measure the good one you have before ordering. The slide pins are ma...

Alex, it's the pin under '2, 13, 4' on the right of the brackets in your illustration with the rubber gromit, which receives bolt 4 - the pin that slides along the carrier housing if it's available to buy it'd save me buyng another caliper. But do you reckon id be able to drill out the snapped off b...

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Irwin-Bolt-Grip ... B0000CCXVZ

anybody recommend these?

Dan

Today i set about replacing the hub on my car - what a f-ing disaster! Problem 1 - i have a camber bolt in the top strut bolt hole to correct my neg camber issue, this is rounded completely so i can't shift the sod. Best course of action? i just need to rotate it 180degrees and the knuckle on the bo...

For reference, Alex was right at the start, you don't have to take off the alt or a/c pump (mine cracked when I slacked the bolts, so best to leave it alone ).

You can get on the 13mm bolt that secures the tensioner with a long extension bar - putting it back together is the s**t bit!

6n2stan wrote:Jam some bluetac into your socket mate or tissue paper can be quite effective.

Driven me insane today this job has. So close to finishing it so just got really annoyed with it all.

Which can hold a bolt tight whilst you locate it on the thread? The aux belt tensioner 13mm bolt is in a recess where I can't get my hand in to start the bolt off - if I put it into my extender socket it will obviously just drop out.

Is there a tool for this?