Hi
Has anyone used Toyo T1-S's before?
I got 2 fitted to the rear of my GTi tonight and I can't believe how sticky they feel! Really sorted the rear end out, not a hint of sliding or slithering, and it's wet tonight!!
Just wondering if anyone else can confirm that these tyres are ace?
Toyo T1-S's
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Josh_PoloGTi
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Toyo T1-S's
Last edited by Josh_PoloGTi on Sat May 03, 2003 3:40 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Josh_PoloGTi
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My Toyo's havn't lasted that long on the front (the backs are still fine) but I'm still going to buy some more.
They are the best tyre I have ever bought.
Avons - Hmm...
I span in the middle of the road in damp conditions once when I had Avons on. They were VERY hard compound. Very slidey. I don't know if they are better now (tabs has some in 18" fitment)
Hope this helps
They are the best tyre I have ever bought.
Avons - Hmm...
I span in the middle of the road in damp conditions once when I had Avons on. They were VERY hard compound. Very slidey. I don't know if they are better now (tabs has some in 18" fitment)
Hope this helps
Don't know if this means much, but ova' here Avons aren't considered to be an 'A'-brand. Neither is Toyo, but they are still held in higher regard than Avon.
It's not trash, but there are better tyres out there for your money. I know there are real experts here, they'll (hopefully) be able to confirm this.
Cue Polo2K.
It's not trash, but there are better tyres out there for your money. I know there are real experts here, they'll (hopefully) be able to confirm this.
Cue Polo2K.
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Josh_PoloGTi
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Speedy
I've had many, many different types of tyre, so many infact that I couldn't try to list them.
I've stuck with Toyo's as they, imho, are the best tyre I've found so far (they suit my style of driving). That includes Goodyear Eagle F1's!
Anyway, I'm really happy with them (and they only cost £45 each!)
I've had many, many different types of tyre, so many infact that I couldn't try to list them.
I've stuck with Toyo's as they, imho, are the best tyre I've found so far (they suit my style of driving). That includes Goodyear Eagle F1's!
Anyway, I'm really happy with them (and they only cost £45 each!)
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polo2k
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well there will al;ways be a better tyre but you need to ask your self some questions:
what size do i need and who makes them in that size?
what do i want from my tyre ? (ill go into this a little deeper later)
how much do i want to spend?
well firstly not all tyres are made in exery size due to lack of demand and that they would be innaproprate
i.e. bridgestone dont make the sp-03 (very high performance and short life) in 135/80/13 because not many sub 1 litre vehicles (the only engine size that uses them) need them
nextly what do you want?
well you can want a lot of things but namely noisy, or noise isnt a problem. grippy or slippy. good in the rain or dry use etc
you need to know how long you want theese tyres to last, wheather you want a lot of wet grip (usually at the expence of dry grip). there are so many variables on this i think its better if you ask me or a specialist on this one rather than read 3 p[ages of coments hehe.
and lastly cost. well this is all up to you but please remember that if ou get a tyre for 50 quid that lasts 100 miles then it costs 50p er mile but if you get another for 50 quid that lasts for 1000 then it costs 5p a mile and most tryes last well past 20k with easy driving, but also remember that quiality costs so a set of 5 quid remoulds arnt going to any where near as safe or capeable as a set of 300 quid brand names.
what size do i need and who makes them in that size?
what do i want from my tyre ? (ill go into this a little deeper later)
how much do i want to spend?
well firstly not all tyres are made in exery size due to lack of demand and that they would be innaproprate
i.e. bridgestone dont make the sp-03 (very high performance and short life) in 135/80/13 because not many sub 1 litre vehicles (the only engine size that uses them) need them
nextly what do you want?
well you can want a lot of things but namely noisy, or noise isnt a problem. grippy or slippy. good in the rain or dry use etc
you need to know how long you want theese tyres to last, wheather you want a lot of wet grip (usually at the expence of dry grip). there are so many variables on this i think its better if you ask me or a specialist on this one rather than read 3 p[ages of coments hehe.
and lastly cost. well this is all up to you but please remember that if ou get a tyre for 50 quid that lasts 100 miles then it costs 50p er mile but if you get another for 50 quid that lasts for 1000 then it costs 5p a mile and most tryes last well past 20k with easy driving, but also remember that quiality costs so a set of 5 quid remoulds arnt going to any where near as safe or capeable as a set of 300 quid brand names.
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polo2k
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so what can i do to improve my tyre and make it feel better fo a little money?
well there are a few
constantly chect the pressure
ive been known (in the summer) to go out twice a week and check them (sometimes more if im doing a low of "driving" driving.
check the alignment
if the tyres arnt pointing right then how do you expect them to perform?
buy tyres with higher speed rating
most people think that the speed rating is just that. an indication of the maximum safest speed which the tyre may be subjected to. i.e if a porche was fitted with h rating it could exeed the maximum rating and experiance catastrofic tyre failure. where as if you put a polo on a higher rating i.e. t to v, then you will experiance improved handleing eh why? because the higher rated tyres have a stiffer sidewall to help maintain the correct profile when exposed to the high centrifugal forces experianced when a round object is accelerated. the stiffer sidewalls help other cars too again im going to ask eh!? well a stiffer sidewall will reduce lateral forces experianced under cornering loads because the car wants to carry on forward when you turn the wheel (momentum) but the tyres exert an opposing force to the momentum in a lateral direction so that the wealest link will deform as the forces try to reach equilibrium, i.e. the car moves foreward the turns 90 degrees right but the momentum is still moving foreward so the entire car trys to fight the force (of momentum) and subsequently the tyres will 'lean' in this case the outer (left) tyres. so we can see that if we fit a stiffer tyre that offers more resistance to the tyre 'lean' then more of the turn that you put into the wheel gets transfered to the road (the tyres 'leaning' means that you may be turnign the wheel 35% but the car is only reacting with the equivilent of 20%), this is also the principle behind under steer and the 'lean' is technically refered to as "tyre roll"
possibly change steel wheels to alloys to a 'better' size either allowing you to use a lower profile tyre (read above about tyre roll) or use a lighter tyre/wheel combination as a lighter wheel abd tyre combination will allow the wheel to track the road better (ask and ill go into that more)
keep you wheels clean
it makes them lighter right
seriously though if any one needs any more help on tyres please feel free to post away and ask any specific questions
well there are a few
constantly chect the pressure
ive been known (in the summer) to go out twice a week and check them (sometimes more if im doing a low of "driving" driving.
check the alignment
if the tyres arnt pointing right then how do you expect them to perform?
buy tyres with higher speed rating
most people think that the speed rating is just that. an indication of the maximum safest speed which the tyre may be subjected to. i.e if a porche was fitted with h rating it could exeed the maximum rating and experiance catastrofic tyre failure. where as if you put a polo on a higher rating i.e. t to v, then you will experiance improved handleing eh why? because the higher rated tyres have a stiffer sidewall to help maintain the correct profile when exposed to the high centrifugal forces experianced when a round object is accelerated. the stiffer sidewalls help other cars too again im going to ask eh!? well a stiffer sidewall will reduce lateral forces experianced under cornering loads because the car wants to carry on forward when you turn the wheel (momentum) but the tyres exert an opposing force to the momentum in a lateral direction so that the wealest link will deform as the forces try to reach equilibrium, i.e. the car moves foreward the turns 90 degrees right but the momentum is still moving foreward so the entire car trys to fight the force (of momentum) and subsequently the tyres will 'lean' in this case the outer (left) tyres. so we can see that if we fit a stiffer tyre that offers more resistance to the tyre 'lean' then more of the turn that you put into the wheel gets transfered to the road (the tyres 'leaning' means that you may be turnign the wheel 35% but the car is only reacting with the equivilent of 20%), this is also the principle behind under steer and the 'lean' is technically refered to as "tyre roll"
possibly change steel wheels to alloys to a 'better' size either allowing you to use a lower profile tyre (read above about tyre roll) or use a lighter tyre/wheel combination as a lighter wheel abd tyre combination will allow the wheel to track the road better (ask and ill go into that more)
keep you wheels clean
it makes them lighter right
seriously though if any one needs any more help on tyres please feel free to post away and ask any specific questions
-
Josh_PoloGTi
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polo2k
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well im bored so heres your analysis of "tracking the road"
imagine that you get a crystal of sugar in your hand and move your hand up and down fast changing direction as fast as you can, its easy and theres no problem of you having to fight the momentum (inertia) of the 1 crystal, but if you replace that 1 crystal with a bag of sugar then it becomes much harder to change the direction of your hand, now imagine doing it with 2 bags of sugar etc. this can also be translated into car terms as if you are using big heavy discs* and 19" rims with heavy tyres (michlin are quite bad for this) then every time your wheel hits a bump in the road and tries to follow the contour of the road surface it must change direction and with all that weight the change of direction is quite slow, wheras if you fit very light components (magnesium wheels etc) the direction change becomes much faster so the tyre remains in contact with the surface of the road much longer because it can track the road better due to its faster responce time
*i mentioned heavy discs and id like to point somthing out, next time you see a porche in a showroom look at its rear discs and you will see that they are drilled, this is not nessary for expelsion of gasses as pad technology has moved on to the point where pads no longer expell gas, the reason for the drilled discs is that every gram counts so if they can shave a bit of weight off the disc then it will mean the suspension can accelerate and decelerate faster meaning better tracking of the road. some companys take this even further (not so much now but in the 80`s it was quite common) by fitting the discs next to the diferencial (can cause diff overheating though) because that way there is a lot of weight removed; disc, caliper, pads, all suppors and bracing and of course any pipe work.
a lighter tyre can also give slightly faster acceleration (barely noticeable) and this is due to a combination of inertia and levering forces as a heavy tyre a long way from the hub needs more force to get moving wheras a light tyre on a tiny rim takes much less
imagine that you get a crystal of sugar in your hand and move your hand up and down fast changing direction as fast as you can, its easy and theres no problem of you having to fight the momentum (inertia) of the 1 crystal, but if you replace that 1 crystal with a bag of sugar then it becomes much harder to change the direction of your hand, now imagine doing it with 2 bags of sugar etc. this can also be translated into car terms as if you are using big heavy discs* and 19" rims with heavy tyres (michlin are quite bad for this) then every time your wheel hits a bump in the road and tries to follow the contour of the road surface it must change direction and with all that weight the change of direction is quite slow, wheras if you fit very light components (magnesium wheels etc) the direction change becomes much faster so the tyre remains in contact with the surface of the road much longer because it can track the road better due to its faster responce time
*i mentioned heavy discs and id like to point somthing out, next time you see a porche in a showroom look at its rear discs and you will see that they are drilled, this is not nessary for expelsion of gasses as pad technology has moved on to the point where pads no longer expell gas, the reason for the drilled discs is that every gram counts so if they can shave a bit of weight off the disc then it will mean the suspension can accelerate and decelerate faster meaning better tracking of the road. some companys take this even further (not so much now but in the 80`s it was quite common) by fitting the discs next to the diferencial (can cause diff overheating though) because that way there is a lot of weight removed; disc, caliper, pads, all suppors and bracing and of course any pipe work.
a lighter tyre can also give slightly faster acceleration (barely noticeable) and this is due to a combination of inertia and levering forces as a heavy tyre a long way from the hub needs more force to get moving wheras a light tyre on a tiny rim takes much less
