6C Polo GTI Wheel Fitment

[TezzL0]

I am considering what size to get on my aftermarket alloys. I plan to go Stage 2+, maybe even Stage 3 (IS20) in the future so I am going to need as much grip as possible.

Stock wheel size:
Size; 7.5j x 17
PCD; 5x100
Centre Bore; 57.1
Offset; ET44

Has anybody got experience with bigger alloys? I don't understand offset enough to make a decision on wider wheels and I can't seem to find much online that's helpful. I would definitely like to stay at 17 inch as I personally feel like 18s look too big for the car.

I was thinking I would get away with 8J, but what offset would I need to avoid issues with rubbing and also staying clear of suspension? I do plan to have the car on coilovers so I can always adjust the height if I need to. Any advise would be appriciated!

[SRGTD]

I’ve no experience of larger wheels on the 6c GTI. However, a calculator such as the one on www.willtheyfit.com is useful if you’re considering changing your wheels. If you input the details of your existing and proposed new wheel / tyre set up, it’ll calculate the important numbers for you - e.g. changes in poke and tuck, any speedo reading errors etc. - which will help you assess whether or not you might have any clearance or rubbing issues.

The more aggressive the offset (i.e. lower ‘ET’ numbers), the greater the risk of rubbing issues especially if your car’s lowered, although offset can’t be considered in isolation; it always needs to be considered in conjunction with the wheel / tyre width.

[RUM4MO]

One other aspect of wheel/tyre buying to consider, I'd always stick with an option that the car manufacturer offers and not just wander off and pick something that does actually fit without rubbing.

What I'm hinting at here is to beware of moving away from the "wheel width - tyre width" that VW recommend, as many aftermarket alloy wheels fit more than one car model, they can end up being offered in widths other than what VW recommend for the tyre width that you should be using on that wheel, example being - my daughter picked alloy wheels that were 0.5" wider than SEAT recommended for winter use on her Cupra - that has left her with a tyre that has adequate rim protection - but not when fitted to these alloys. The first thing I noticed was that normally I can stack wheels/tyres one on top of the other when not in use, ie Summer/Winter types, her new winter alloys are the first wheel/tyre combo that I've noticed that the alloy rims make contact with each other when stacked - maybe not a deal breaker, but in my world, best to avoid if possible when you are choosing new wheels/tyres.

The wheel and tyre supplier confirmed that that combination of wheel and tyre were correct for that car.

[TezzL0]

One other aspect of wheel/tyre buying to consider, I'd always stick with an option that the car manufacturer offers and not just wander off and pick something that does actually fit without rubbing.

What I'm hinting at here is to beware of moving away from the "wheel width - tyre width" that VW recommend, as many aftermarket alloy wheels fit more than one car model, they can end up being offered in widths other than what VW recommend for the tyre width that you should be using on that wheel, example being - my daughter picked alloy wheels that were 0.5" wider than SEAT recommended for winter use on her Cupra - that has left her with a tyre that has adequate rim protection - but not when fitted to these alloys. The first thing I noticed was that normally I can stack wheels/tyres one on top of the other when not in use, ie Summer/Winter types, her new winter alloys are the first wheel/tyre combo that I've noticed that the alloy rims make contact with each other when stacked - maybe not a deal breaker, but in my world, best to avoid if possible when you are choosing new wheels/tyres.

The wheel and tyre supplier confirmed that that combination of wheel and tyre were correct for that car.

So if your daughter used tyres that were also 0.5" wider, this would fix the issue of the rim not having sufficient protection? I don't plan to swap tyres between my stock and aftermarket alloys so I can't see this being an issue.

I actually agree with you on keeping the size of the wheels as VW recommend. This would mean if I ever swapped back to my stock alloys I could use tyres off my new ones. I also wouldn't have to worry about fitment as both wheels would be the same size. The sole reason I am interested in increasing the width of the tyres would be for more grip, as I get the feeling I will struggle for grip when surpassing the 280-300bhp mark, Although I'm not sure how much half an inch would actually help me.

Do you know if your daughter went with OEM offset on her new alloys? Another thing I need to learn more about and consider..

[SRGTD]

@TezzL0; if you went for, say, 225/40 R17 tyres as opposed to VW’s factory spec 215/40 R17 tyres for the GTI, the sidewall height would increase as the ‘40’ in the tyre size represents the sidewall height; expressed as a percentage of the tyre tread width. A higher sidewall would increase the overall rolling radius of the wheel / tyre, resulting in a speedo reading error.

[TezzL0]

@TezzL0; if you went for, say, 225/40 R17 tyres as opposed to VW’s factory spec 215/40 R17 tyres for the GTI, the sidewall height would increase as the ‘40’ in the tyre size represents the sidewall height; expressed as a percentage of the tyre tread width. A higher sidewall would increase the overall rolling radius of the wheel / tyre, resulting in a speedo reading error.

Okay, I understand what you are saying. Good to know actually as I didn't realize it worked this way. So surely the increase in the height of the wall would be fractional if the width of the tread was only increased by a small amount? I did know about the speedo error when changing the size of the alloys but again I'm not changing the size by much so I'm pretty certain this would also be fractional.. 3 to 5% would be an acceptable error to me.

Also bearing in mind what you've told me here, could low profile tyres be an option to counter-act the increase in the height of the tyre wall? What I'm saying may sound daft but it makes sense to me right now lol.. Thanks for the info!

[RUM4MO]

So if your daughter used tyres that were also 0.5" wider, this would fix the issue of the rim not having sufficient protection? I don't plan to swap tyres between my stock and aftermarket alloys so I can't see this being an issue.

I actually agree with you on keeping the size of the wheels as VW recommend. This would mean if I ever swapped back to my stock alloys I could use tyres off my new ones. I also wouldn't have to worry about fitment as both wheels would be the same size. The sole reason I am interested in increasing the width of the tyres would be for more grip, as I get the feeling I will struggle for grip when surpassing the 280-300bhp mark, Although I'm not sure how much half an inch would actually help me.

Do you know if your daughter went with OEM offset on her new alloys? Another thing I need to learn more about and consider..

The only issue of then using wider tyres to clear that problem would probably have meant moving away from an approved wheel/tyre size, which should cause issues with insurance - unless you were willing to pay extra.

From what I picked up on your opening posting, I hadn't or missed any wheel width and accompanying tyre widths you had considered.

Again, check what VW sell even as aftersales items for your car and use that to "fix" your choice.

Edit:- I'm confident that she would have limited her choice of wheel so that the ET was exactly the same that VW would have used if they had picked that width of wheel - which VW didn't and so the lack of rim protection when using the approved tyre size for that wheel on that car.

[Bepis]

I'm running a set of BBS XR's with an offset of 35, other than that the specs are the same as factory and still the same 215/40/17 tyre. No rubbing whatsoever even in quite heavy compressions but I'm not lowered and have standard GTi suspension still.

The front has a nice flush fit, could maybe go a bit more, rears look better but could come out more than the fronts.

With the wider stance a lot more s**t gets thrown down the side of the car in my experience so maybe consider some mudflaps depends what you want the car to look like.

You may be able to get an 8J in with some lower offset (wheel pushed outwards) but it'd be tight. I'd personally base your tyre size choice on one that has a lot of choices available as the tyre quality and compound have a lot more bearing on grip than just width.

With higher power, you may see more benefit in acceleration grip by having an LSD than wider tyres.

@Dink would probably have much better knowledge on grip with higher power levels in this car.

[TezzL0]

I'm running a set of BBS XR's with an offset of 35, other than that the specs are the same as factory and still the same 215/40/17 tyre. No rubbing whatsoever even in quite heavy compressions but I'm not lowered and have standard GTi suspension still.

The front has a nice flush fit, could maybe go a bit more, rears look better but could come out more than the fronts.

With the wider stance a lot more s**t gets thrown down the side of the car in my experience so maybe consider some mudflaps depends what you want the car to look like.

You may be able to get an 8J in with some lower offset (wheel pushed outwards) but it'd be tight. I'd personally base your tyre size choice on one that has a lot of choices available as the tyre quality and compound have a lot more bearing on grip than just width.

With higher power, you may see more benefit in acceleration grip by having an LSD than wider tyres.

@Dink would probably have much better knowledge on grip with higher power levels in this car.

So, correct me if I'm wrong, but you have the same fitment now as you would with stock wheels with 9-10mm spacers all round? Again, correct me if I'm wrong as I'm still trying to get my head around wheel specs and sizing. I've kind of measured and figured out that I would get away with 13-15mm spacers round the car without the wheel poking out to the point where stone chips would get thrown around, so my thoughts are I have this clearance to play with on my new alloys.

I do agree with your statement about tyre choice and compound being the most important thing, and I definitely will look into an LSD on the car. Right now I'm just exploring all my options before I start to pour all my money into the car. In my head there is no point aiming for 350bhp if the power isn't useable.

Also some pictures of the car would be nice I love the BBS XR's on the Polos.

[Bepis]

Correct, it’s the same fitment as running a stock wheel with a 9mm spacer minus the extra long lug bolts. Another thing to consider is space for larger brakes if your aiming for stage 3 power. Currently I’m collating parts and the money to do so and I have a set of MK1 Leon Cupra R brembo front brakes and 256mm disc rear vented callipers.

The Leon brembos do not fit behind the BBS XRs but it’s very close, probably only a couple mm spacer is needed but I haven’t confirmed yet. But with extra poke I don’t have much more room to push the wheels out.

Theres a thread detailing what can be done for brake upgrades, it’s 6C brake upgrades or GTi brake upgrades the exact name I’m not sure.

I’ll try and get some pictures of them in general as well as fitment and clearance for your reference.

FYI MRC wanted around £7K to take a bone stock GTi to IS38 stage 3. Parts, labour, VAT and tuning.

[TezzL0]

Correct, it’s the same fitment as running a stock wheel with a 9mm spacer minus the extra long lug bolts. Another thing to consider is space for larger brakes if your aiming for stage 3 power. Currently I’m collating parts and the money to do so and I have a set of MK1 Leon Cupra R brembo front brakes and 256mm disc rear vented callipers.

The Leon brembos do not fit behind the BBS XRs but it’s very close, probably only a couple mm spacer is needed but I haven’t confirmed yet. But with extra poke I don’t have much more room to push the wheels out.

Theres a thread detailing what can be done for brake upgrades, it’s 6C brake upgrades or GTi brake upgrades the exact name I’m not sure.

I’ll try and get some pictures of them in general as well as fitment and clearance for your reference.

FYI MRC wanted around £7K to take a bone stock GTi to IS38 stage 3. Parts, labour, VAT and tuning.

I'm glad you mentioned brakes as this isn't something I've even considered yet. I do see a lot of people going for the MK1 Curpa brakes. Do you know how much extra room is required for them?

£7k seems to be the average for companies offering Stage 3 packages. I do plan to stay at Stage 2 until I get bored so going straight to Stage 3 isn't something that I am interested in doing, but good to know. I have my heart set on VUDU, the guys there seem really clued up and I have only heard good things about them. I'm also leaning towards the IS20 as I feel like the lag would get to me and I'm not interested in going hybrid to counter-act that.

On an unrelated note, did you ever run Stage 1 on a stock clutch? I have mine booked in next Friday for Stage 1 and I'm risking it on stock clutch. They said they can reduce the torque if it starts to slip but I am staying hopeful.

[Bepis]

On a stock wheel a 15mm spacer is needed to clear them.

As for power holding on the stock clutch on older posts some users claimed to be running stage 2 power on a stock clutch but at that time they’d have been relatively new.

Personally I’m getting a sachs racing organic clutch and flywheel kit fitted relatively soon then getting a stage one more for the purpose of getting clutch to start removed in order to hopefully prevent crank walk. Plus my insurance didn’t charge for the power increase an MRC stage 1 offered (230 maximum) so I thought I may as well take it.

[TezzL0]

On a stock wheel a 15mm spacer is needed to clear them.

As for power holding on the stock clutch on older posts some users claimed to be running stage 2 power on a stock clutch but at that time they’d have been relatively new.

Personally I’m getting a sachs racing organic clutch and flywheel kit fitted relatively soon then getting a stage one more for the purpose of getting clutch to start removed in order to hopefully prevent crank walk. Plus my insurance didn’t charge for the power increase an MRC stage 1 offered (230 maximum) so I thought I may as well take it.

Mine is sitting at 45k miles so I am quietly confident. Hopefully the previous owner was kind to it..

I am also looking at the Sachs organic, either that or the RTS Twin Friction, both seem to be decent options. I am factoring in a clutch for my Stage 2 budget but it would be nice to get away with Stage 1 on the stock one.

And when you say 230 do you mean wheel or brake? VUDU claims their Stage 1 will take me to 250-260bhp on 99RON which is about 230-235whp.