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The way I understand it is the oil seals stop the oil getting into the charger's airways. Under normal circumstances oil doesn't come blasting out of the boost return. If your oil seals have gone, then oil is going to go through the charger, through the intercooler and get blasted out of the boost return.

To be honest I can't imagine it's much better letting that all seep back into the charger (though it's not as messy).

A standard charger rebuild is £350 ish from PSD (by standard I mean with no porting, they'll rebuild a pre-ported charger for the same price) and hopefully it will only be your oil seals that have gone.

With a head gasket change on top you're looking at over £500 all together yes, unless you can get your mate to help.

It's not a really difficult job from what I've heard, it's just a case of taking the head off and getting it skimmed, replacing the gasket and re-assembling everything, then give it a run and check the head bolts are still tight afterwards. It can be done at home, aside from the head skim and that's only about £30 IIRC. With a G40 getting to the stage where you can take the head off involves removing the charger, boost pipes and inlet manifold. In the bits you need to take off before you even start taking the head off there's a lot of labour charge at a garage for what is a pretty easy job.

If you spent an afternoon taking it apart, get the head to a garage for a skim and the charger to Pitstop Developments (who do postal servicing) you might even be re-assembling it all within a fortnight. That'll save you towing the car anywhere.

did u c the picture of my engine, looks so dodgey.......


ok well i have about 35% knowledge of car engines, duno if im confident enough to disasemble the charger from the car though, im pretty sure my m8 can

wat do umean by skimming the head? and as there was no oil in the car could that mean the piston rings r f****d as well GRRRRRRRR

You may just be ok with everything bottom end wise. The charger is a piece of p*** to remove from the car, should take you about 15minutes if that.


The BRV is always under positive pressure when the engine is running anyway so nothing can get in. Yes, it looks 'dodgy' as you call it with oil dripping from it since you've blown the scroll seals. otherwise it'll be reet.

When you reassemble everything afterwards, make sure you've emptied the Intercooler of all the oil (as it collects in there) and cleaned out all the boost pipes, TB, Inlet manifold, etc.

Due to you car being a bag of s**t, I would be looking at buying new injectors for it aswell since you cannot be sure what has been done on this car.

Your engine looks perfectly normal, the boost return removal looks fine too (though the charger blanking plate looks rusty!)

Looks the same as mine:



As Paul ^^ says you've got a charger problem, the rest of that side of things is perfectly normal.

You do need a head gasket change though by the sounds of it.

Once that's done it should be healthy again, but it would be worth getting it to a specialist for a check over just to make sure you don't have problems in the future.

ill take it to psd but as to how im gona get it there god knews, bank of mum n dad i think


i noticed ur air filter is standrd, have u done this so little bits of dust dont get into ur charger? it does look really neat n clean

apparently the car has sns injectors

i bet not even 1 drip of oil comes out of ur boost retain..........

know any good toe truck companies?

SNS chip you mean! do you know if its got G60 green injectors or G40 ones?

Air filter/induction kit, doesn't make a difference, just sound really nuless your induction kit in is a proper cold air source

I do get a little bit of something greasy which comes out of the boost return and collects on the brake fluid reservoir and strut tower, but it's next to nothing and I'm told that it's normal. Could well be PTFE that's carried through the charge hoses.

I've stuck with my standard airbox mainly because I can't afford twin inlets and a heat shield yet. Could be a while before those go on as they're the thick side of £250. It gets so hot under the bonnet that I'd imagine an induction kit wouldn't suck much cold air in. I've kept the stock air duct that goes behind the headlamp to make sure it's only cold air going in but I'm going to have a go at porting the inlet a bit for a little more air flow. To be honest though it runs fine how it is.

my k&n looks crappy i tihnk im gona go back to a standard induction im sure it will filter it alot better.

know any good toe companies?

ck

I wouldn't bother with twin inlets if I were you Krupa.

I have tried it on mine. First problem is where to mount it.

I did think of mounting the second one in the offside front arch but you don't want a stupidly long piece of ducting as a lag occurs, evident from the delayed filter rumble.

The hosing is also at risk toward the bottom of the car.

Using a shorter piece you are stuck for positions to use with a cold air box like Jabba's. You don't want it near the manifold or the rcker really, I ended up having a mssive cold air feed from the bottom of the car and placing the second inlet near the rocker, bad bad bad.

I have seen a modified cold air box from Jabba with both filter's in it but why would you want the same noise from the same part of the engine twice? It isn't any louder, it just comes from two different places.

The thing is, the charger can only suck in a certain amount of air. The aftermarket Jabba filter is more than efficient enough to provide that amount. Having two air filters doesn't mean that more air will be sucked in, it just means that it will be taken from two different sources.

My car was actually quieter with two air filters as the amount of air coming through the two filters was not as great as coming through one when I had the second filter in the arch. The lag sounded cool though.
There was absolutely no difference in noise with the second one being short.

I am using a blanking plate when my charger returns.

If you're strapped for cash, why don't you just remove the charger and post it to PSD? Then you can crack on with the head gasket while the charger's being serviced.
I can't help with removing the charger, but if you need advice on the head gasket I wrote a guide to changing it a while ago, it's in the DIY section. I'm pretty sure it'll be more or less the same to change it on a G40 once the charger's been removed as it is on a standard engine.

im scared im gona bugger it up n lets face it the car needs a cheking over with psd!

The charger is pretty simple to get off.

You need a 13mm socket and ratchet.

a 13mm tappered spanner, (bent back head to get the mount by the larger allen key bolt)

A 10mm allen key.

a 19mm socket/spanner

I think there was a 15 mm socket somwhere. There is a guide on the PSD website.

its gonig to psd this week but AA r being gay about it n they want me to pretend i broke down 1/4 of a mile away from home wtf........

How the f**k were you hitting the limiter if it is set at 8k which is what the sns chips are, you must of been revving it to high heaven. And driving around with no oil

its at psd now n there is no way the limit is at 8000 as the needle almost touched the 1000 rev mark!!!!!!!!!!! it has been bored out if that changes anything??