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wolfie wrote:

Slider09 wrote: Mon Jul 22, 2019 9:28 am

wolfie wrote:Anyone know what the correct torque setting for the sump plug is. (M14 X 1.5) 30Nm rings a bell, but I can't remember where I read it.

Oil filter 20NM
Oil drain plug 30NM

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Cheers for that.
Been tightening stuff by hand for years, but treated myself to a torque wrench a little while back. Now everything I go near now gets tightened to what it should be to make sure I get my money's worth...

I bought one last year for something, then realised I had to buy another (bigger one) as original one only went to 105nm and I needed to tighten to 200nm



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Always a good idea to use the quoted torque figures and a torque wrench, especially when fixings are into aluminium alloys!

I seem to have 4 torque wrenches and a torque driver, just the usual "big" 1/2" one seemed enough originally, then I bough a lower range ratcheting 1/2" for spark plugs into alloy heads, needed to buy a "bigger" 1/2" ratcheting for hub nuts, then seemed to acquire a lowish 3/8" one and then a 1/4" torque driver!

Slider09 wrote: Mon Jul 22, 2019 10:09 am I bought one last year for something, then realised I had to buy another (bigger one) as original one only went to 105nm and I needed to tighten to 200nm

I'm the other way round. I've had a big-un for ages. I originally bought it for the wheel nuts iirc. Latest one is a smaller 3/8 one. Think it goes from 5-105Nm.

Not sure what year your car is, but worth noting that the oil change procedure is slightly different for 2nd and subsequent changes than the first.

If first, discard the old drain plug and replace with new plug and seal

Second and subsequent oil changes is to just replace the seal.

The plugs do look different, so not sure if the original plug is magnetic or something???


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Mines a 2011 1.2Tsi. So it's 8 oil changes in now. I just bought a plug & seal when I picked up some oil from ECP. I've switched to Mobil1 (5w-30) this time round. Not tried it before so time will tell if it was a wise decision. Up to now it's always been Shell Helix.

As a bye the bye. Do folk disconnect the the coil pack for a few seconds of cranking to fill the new filter and build a little oil pressure before starting the engine in anger? Or are there better methods so as not to risk flooding the engine? (Is it even deemed wise/necessary?)

I have been using Mobil One ESP 5W-30 for many years now, just stuffed that into my wife's 2015 6C Polo 1.2TSI 110PS, priming prior to running the engine, my plan when using "metal can" filters, is to fill it up with oil and wait until the oil soaks into the filter media, then clumsily get the filter onto the engine, not a good experience as some oil escapes and makes gripping the metal body of the filter almost impossible - but it makes me feel like I'm doing something good, or better than just fitting the filter dry and starting the engine. My own car, an S4 has a plastic vertical almost filter casing and a replaceable filter element - I don't have the chance to try that trick on that one, but it sounds good when initially started after an oil change.

You can be sure that a professional fitter in a dealership will just empty, change filter, refill, start engine.

RUM4MO wrote: Mon Jul 22, 2019 6:08 pm I have been using Mobil One ESP 5W-30 for many years now

You can be sure that a professional fitter in a dealership will just empty, change filter, refill, start engine.

Aye that's the stuff. I managed to pick some up from ECP while they were doing one of their little "flash sales"

As the filter on the Tsi sits upside down on the top of the engine I doubt there is much in there anyway. When you remove them they don't drop any oil like some filters do. I'm more concerned with building a little oil pressure on the back of the chain tensioner before the engine starts.

I'm sure it's all just faffing on my part. As you say the technicians just crack-on. Then again I enjoy taking my time and having a little fettle here and there. The oil change should have got done yesterday but by the time I'd dropped the underskirt, cleaned it, applied protectant to the plastic, painted the screws because they were rusty, and generally given everything a clean off, I never actually got to changing the oil... LOL. I have heart failure so my pace is somewhere between slow and stop anyway.

On your engine, I think the plan is to slacken off the filter "a bit" and wait until the oil runs down into the sump. You could probably do as I do and put enough oil into the new filter to "wet" the filter media and quickly invert and fit ASAP making sure the surrounding area is covered with paper wipes.

wolfie wrote: As a bye the bye. Do folk disconnect the the coil pack for a few seconds of cranking to fill the new filter and build a little oil pressure before starting the engine in anger? Or are there better methods so as not to risk flooding the engine? (Is it even deemed wise/necessary?)

Just let the engine idle for a few seconds until oil pressure is built up.

Disconnecting the coil packs would be a good idea when replacing a turbo, get oil pumped around before firing up, but for an oil change no need. Idle for a couple of seconds will be fine.


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