Auto headlight retrofit. VW Transporter. T5 (2010-2015)

[ciclo]

Hello pettman, choose the 7E0937090 BCM Max. 100% compatibility and more recommended.
eg: a 7E0937090 BCM Max is better than a 7H0937090 D BCM Max.

Clarification:
- For those who can only access to have a 7H0 BCM Max or already have it available, any 7H0 BCM Max is good for this upgrade.

[pettman]

Thank you for this, naturally when I am ready to actually do upgrades I will post scans, pictures etc. For now I just need a little bit more information.

On the wiring diagram you have in this thread for the H7, you indicate several pins on the T17 connector that are for wiring adaption, but 2 of these pins (2 and 4) have no wires in them according to the diagram. So I am curious as to why these 2 are starred? Is it they exist and need to be isolated?

The coupler, does this matter the type of coupler? As long as it has 10 pins? Or do you have the part number for the one you used to use?

Finally, I am struggling to find in the UK the terminals, and connector blocks, I really want to keep this install OEM, but the lack of parts is holding me up a bit.

Thanks again

Ben

[ciclo]

All the questions you ask are answered in this thread, either in the images/diagrams posted, or by answering other users, some of them on more than one occasion, please understand that I don't have to answer them again.
eg: for 2 and 4 pins read page 4 as many times as necessary.

You can use any coupling that best fits your OEM concept.

I recommend that you read the entire thread, so you will know everything there is to know about it.
It is impossible to go wrong if you follow everything that I have written in this thread, and because you are going to manufacture the wiring it is necessary that you understand how it works.

When you finish installing the necessary wiring and parts, please post two autoscan, one with the old BCM and one with the new BCM, I hope to be available just then to post your new BCM coding here in case you need my help with this task.

Do not panic if at the end of the installation some of the lights do not work, it is normal, it is only necessary to enter the new coding/s (logically).

In case of asking, any errors detected during installation process should be preceded by an autoscan for a quick solution.

[pettman]

Thanks, I have read the ENTIRE thread multiple times, and took the decision to ask the questions that I asked, I just missed the tiny writing on the image that talks about the pins, apologies, will zoom in.

As for the terminals+connector blocks, thats a struggle, worse case is it wont be OEM

[ciclo]

viewtopic.php?p=531816#p531816

There are endless places where you can buy contact terminals and connectors, even on Aliexpress.
Search with your browser for the reference number of the contact terminal and connectors and you will find those places.
If you click on the image search you will see it better (with google for example).

Click on the link to see images and references:
https://www.a4-freunde.com/showwiki.php ... uebersicht

[ciclo]

https://www.ebay.de/sch/heikkaeck-0/m.h ... pg=&_from=


eg: for relay holder
https://www.ebay.de/itm/12-Flachsteckhu ... SwDZ1bCpDk

[pettman]

Ok, lets make this more like I am making and effort , I believe I need the following terminals:

https://www.automotive-connectors.com/t ... ieces.html
https://www.automotive-connectors.com/t ... ieces.html
https://www.automotive-connectors.com/t ... piece.html
https://www.automotive-connectors.com/t ... piece.html
https://www.automotive-connectors.com/t ... ieces.html

And also think I need these:
https://www.automotive-connectors.com/t ... piece.html

But they are listed as 4.8K and not 5.8 as mentioned in this thread, are they they correct ones?

Also with regard the cables, are the sizes mentioned by Bizmo in mm2 or mm width of the cable?

For example he mentions in his shopping list "2.5mm cable yellow 5m x2" - so is this 2.5mm2 cable, ie 14 AWG (29amp) or 10 AWG (50 amp) being a 6mm2 cable

I was going to use this for the 10 pin coupler, and probably a 2 pin version for the other coupler:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Electrical-M ... Swy1NdwqZQ

EDIT:

I am also confusing myself with the 2 looms, the bit that is twisting my head is in this image:

it shows 3 cables going into the other side of the coupler connector, and then 3 loose wires, but then on this image:

on the same connector block shows a pin out for 10 wires, 7 original, 3 new.

So does this mean for example, red connector pin 8 is the new yellow wire that goes to T73a/45 and also connects to pin 16 original T17 connector? Also why dont the 2 (with the blue ends on) just terminate in the connector block as they are connecting to wires that are in there?

[ciclo]

Currently some of the lights on your T5 are electronically managed by the BCM but other lights are not, whose operation is purely electrical. Your factory light switch is for the most part an electrical switch.

BCM wiring adaptation for automatic lights consists of having all lights (except high beams) electronically managed by BCM. The new AUTO light switch only sends electronic or low voltage signals.

In BCM wiring adaptation, some signals are the inputs to the BCM (activation signals) and others are the outputs from the BCM to the devices or lights to be powered. Part of the already existing wiring is used in these outputs, either directly from the BCM or at connection points that make installation/adaptation easy.

Everything is perfectly explained in this thread, ...and best of all, it works perfectly.

Hopefully someone who participated in this thread can answer your questions about terminals, etc ...

[pettman]

Thanks for the explanation, I will read again, but I am struggling to understand why those 2 wires are loose and not in the connector block? When in one wiring diagram they are in the red connector.

Because to me it seems like the T17/9 and T17/16 connect to 4 wires, 2 going to the new T10 auto light switch and 2 new ones going to the BCM.

EDIT

Think it just hit me... those 2 wires from the T17 block go directly to the 2 pin plug, and the new wires added in are the ones that connect the T10 switch pins to where they need to go.

Yes/no?

[pettman]

My new BCM has arrived



I will autoscan my current one and then replace with this one and code keys and confirm all works (i cant do anything else as have no cables yet!)

[pettman]

Apparently this BCM may not be compatible due to the frequency compared to my current one.

Will be checking mine shortly.

EDIT

My current BCM is 7H0 937 087 H, I am told the H suffix is on a 434 MHz frequency and the one I have just purchased with suffix of C runs on the 315 MHz frequency. Does this mean I need to source the B variant for compatibility?

[iichel]

Normally - yes.
But in the 7E0 BCM row, this odd/even lettering scheme has changed and does not apply anymore. I don't think it's possible to find out what carrier frequency the BCM has from looking at the exterior of the BCM.

[pettman]

Normally - yes.
But in the 7E0 BCM row, this odd/even lettering scheme has changed and does not apply anymore. I don't think it's possible to find out what carrier frequency the BCM has from looking at the exterior of the BCM.

Ah right, so is the only way to find out to plug it in and scan it with VCDS? Where would one look in VCDS to find this information?

[iichel]

No I don't think vcds is capable of finding out either. I don't know if any way to figure this out

[pettman]

No I don't think vcds is capable of finding out either. I don't know if any way to figure this out

Well I guess the only way to tell is to plug it in, pair one of the key fobs and then try to lock and unlock the vehicle?