UK-POLOS.NET - THE VW Polo Forum

Hi I bought a can of LD6D Pistachio Green from the VW Main Stealers.

I asked would it need a lacquer or was it mixed as cellulose?

The bloke at the dealer said he didn't know.

I painted the corner of a bumper today where it was scuffed up, it is slighlty shiney but not as a shiney as the original paint.

So could someone tell me if VW non-metallic paints require a lacquer coat.

Cheers,
Mo

I thought that all paint requires lacquer, unless it's matt paint?

i thought all metallic paints have lacqeur coatings on top.

dragon_green wrote:i thought all metallic paints have lacqeur coatings on top.

Metallics definitely need a lacquer coat to produce the iridescence in the paint.

ModifiedMadness wrote:I thought that all paint requires lacquer, unless it's matt paint?

Can anyone confirm this? Pistachio Green is a flat non-metallic colour:-


(same colour as this car)
Cheers.

Can anyone confirm this? Pistachio Green is a flat non-metallic colour:-

G'day from NZ my polo is LD6D and i can confirm that the coluor is pistazie gruen in German.To answer your ? the paint that the VW dealer sold you is more than likely an Acylic lacquer air dried paint similar to a cellulose. the germans were not allowed to manufacture cellulose after ww2 because its also used to make explosives!!. so they came up with acrylic lacquer.end of history lesson.. Your car when it was manufactured was painted in high baked enamel the after market equivalent is a 2pack paint which is not suited to a diy situation as it takes alot of heat to cure the paint. so they supply a paint that dries at normal temp.the trade of for this is a drop in gloss, you are right in saying that your car is non metallic it is known in the trade as a solid colour. also to confirm it is best to apply an air dry clearcoat over your touch up cellulose or acrylic doesn't matter this will stop it from fading and increase the gloss level but only after you've cut and polished it . i hope this is of use ps I worked for ICI WIEDERHOLD.which was the GERMAN partner of ICI AUTOCOLOR a car paint manufacturer for 8yrs before moving to NZ and we used to supply paint to VAG.

NZ POM wrote:

Can anyone confirm this? Pistachio Green is a flat non-metallic colour:-

G'day from NZ my polo is LD6D and i can confirm that the coluor is pistazie gruen in German.To answer your ? the paint that the VW dealer sold you is more than likely an Acylic lacquer air dried paint similar to a cellulose. the germans were not allowed to manufacture cellulose after ww2 because its also used to make explosives!!. so they came up with acrylic lacquer.end of history lesson.. Your car when it was manufactured was painted in high baked enamel the after market equivalent is a 2pack paint which is not suited to a diy situation as it takes alot of heat to cure the paint. so they supply a paint that dries at normal temp.the trade of for this is a drop in gloss, you are right in saying that your car is non metallic it is known in the trade as a solid colour. also to confirm it is best to apply an air dry clearcoat over your touch up cellulose or acrylic doesn't matter this will stop it from fading and increase the gloss level but only after you've cut and polished it . i hope this is of use ps I worked for ICI WIEDERHOLD.which was the GERMAN partner of ICI AUTOCOLOR a car paint manufacturer for 8yrs before moving to NZ and we used to supply paint to VAG.

G'day Mate,

Thanks for the answer it's been a great deal of help as I was a bit stumped as to what I was working with.

The paint went on very nicely and also a very good colour match. They don't supply much in he can only 150ml so I was only able to do the front filled scuff really nicely, whereas the back came out a little spattered as it was the end of the can and more of a matted finish.

This was not helped by the fact I was spraying outside and it's quite hot in the UK (for once). I haven't cut or rubbed it yet, I was thinking of just sticking to Farecla G3 and G10 as the layers of paint aren't that thick and I think colour sanding would take too much off.

I took your advice and invested in some acrylic UV resitant clearcoat today.

Just wondering is it best to cut the whole bumper with G3 to blend in the repair followed by clearcote on the corner that has been painted and then use the finer G10 compound to flatten the clearcoat?

Also how long should I wait before applying any polishes and waxes to seal and finish?

Many thanks for your help,
Mo

G'day mmh to answer your ? if you've already coloured the area more than 24hrs ago , i would first sand the area lightly with p1500 wet/dry paper do it wet as it wont be as harsh and the paper will last longer. sand the repaired area plus an extra 4inch past the colour this is called the fade in area or blend area, spray 1or 2 coats over the colour making sure that the 2nd coat over laps the 1st coat by an inch then follow the procedure over the whole sanded area i.e make the last coat the biggest area a bit like a target or bullseye. after 24hrs it will be ready to cut and polish , if you want to get a nice finish i suggest you gently sand the area again using the p1500 then apply the g3 until the sanding marks have gone then finish with g10 to bring up the shine. if you have not applied the colour yet then i would still sand the repair/blend area with p1500 and use g3 on the rest of the bumper as you described.HOPE THIS HELPS LET ME KNOW HOW YA GET ON .any other questions feel free to ask.ps glad to see ya got good weather

NZ POM wrote:G'day mmh to answer your ? if you've already coloured the area more than 24hrs ago , i would first sand the area lightly with p1500 wet/dry paper do it wet as it wont be as harsh and the paper will last longer. sand the repaired area plus an extra 4inch past the colour this is called the fade in area or blend area, spray 1or 2 coats over the colour making sure that the 2nd coat over laps the 1st coat by an inch then follow the procedure over the whole sanded area i.e make the last coat the biggest area a bit like a target or bullseye. after 24hrs it will be ready to cut and polish , if you want to get a nice finish i suggest you gently sand the area again using the p1500 then apply the g3 until the sanding marks have gone then finish with g10 to bring up the shine. if you have not applied the colour yet then i would still sand the repair/blend area with p1500 and use g3 on the rest of the bumper as you described.HOPE THIS HELPS LET ME KNOW HOW YA GET ON .any other questions feel free to ask.ps glad to see ya got good weather

G'day NZ POM,

I put 3 coats of lacquer on like a target today and to be honest it doesn't look all that great to me (not quite a glass like finish). This is the first time I've used lacquer so a bit apprehensive.

What's the best way to get a matched in mirror finish? Is it to wet sand with P1500 then P2000 followed by G3 and then G10?

Also when wet sanding do you add some washing up liquid to make it less harsh?

I also painted a tailgate spoiler but this time used some colour matched Cellulose...what's the procedure to get a mirror finish with that type of paint. How long should I wait before cutting and polishing?

It's going to be around 28 degrees in the UK for the next 3 days so the paints drying quite quickly

I got hold of an electric polisher to make things a bit easier so any advce on using this would be great.


Thanks, Mo

G'day MO
Firstly sand the whole area with p1500 you can use washing liquid if you want to if the the temp was high when you sprayed the finish might be a bit dry or lumpy looking p1500 wet will cut better on its own,as for p2000 this paper is designed to be used with 2 pack paints and wont cut as well on a acrylic finish. Once you've finished sanding use G3 to polish out the sanding marks then finish with G10.

A couple of things to be wary of,these types of paint dont have a very high build so be careful not to rub through or you'll have to start again,also an electric/power polisher produces a lot of surface heat and these paints [acylic,cellulose] are thermo sensitive and can be burnt ea
sily unless you are fully skilled in the use of this tool i'd do it by hand.

When painting you spoiler try to do it in the shade in an area not more than 21c this will help the paint flow better apply nice even wet coats allow 5mins between colour coats to get a nice finish after applying 2coats
sand with p1500 then apply 2 more coats depending on temp leave for approx 1hr before sanding and also before cutting and polising.

For future reference remember that these paints are for touch ups and will not be as hard wearing or durable as your factory finish or a 2pack paint they will fade a lot faster they do not like petrol or any solvent as they can soften up. they can also be prone to metamericism [flash word to impress] this means they may look different under artificial light such as street lamps this is because they have to use differnt pigments than the factory finish or a 2pack.

ps how much did you pay for the spoiler as i want one but there a fortune down here. GOODLUCK AND ENJOY YOUR SUN ITS WINTER HERE.

NZ POM wrote:G'day MO
Firstly sand the whole area with p1500 you can use washing liquid if you want to if the the temp was high when you sprayed the finish might be a bit dry or lumpy looking p1500 wet will cut better on its own,as for p2000 this paper is designed to be used with 2 pack paints and wont cut as well on a acrylic finish. Once you've finished sanding use G3 to polish out the sanding marks then finish with G10.

A couple of things to be wary of,these types of paint dont have a very high build so be careful not to rub through or you'll have to start again,also an electric/power polisher produces a lot of surface heat and these paints [acylic,cellulose] are thermo sensitive and can be burnt ea
sily unless you are fully skilled in the use of this tool i'd do it by hand.

When painting you spoiler try to do it in the shade in an area not more than 21c this will help the paint flow better apply nice even wet coats allow 5mins between colour coats to get a nice finish after applying 2coats
sand with p1500 then apply 2 more coats depending on temp leave for approx 1hr before sanding and also before cutting and polising.

For future reference remember that these paints are for touch ups and will not be as hard wearing or durable as your factory finish or a 2pack paint they will fade a lot faster they do not like petrol or any solvent as they can soften up. they can also be prone to metamericism [flash word to impress] this means they may look different under artificial light such as street lamps this is because they have to use differnt pigments than the factory finish or a 2pack.

ps how much did you pay for the spoiler as i want one but there a fortune down here. GOODLUCK AND ENJOY YOUR SUN ITS WINTER HERE.

Hi NZ,

Thanks for your reply. I've waited for your advice before I begin anything it's 29 degrees today I painted the spoiler with Cellulose yesterday, I used some spray caps from a grafitti art shop that give a wider even coat. Did the 1st coat and waited 15mins for flash off then did 2 more coats with 15 mins in between each. Looks quite good but some parts feel smooth and some more matted. I suppose the 1500 wet and dry should even things out.

As for the acrylic sprayed bumpers with lacquer the back looks great with an almost unoticeable blend and only the line where I masked of to lacquer needs to be sanded down flat. The front on the other hand doesn't look so great where the colour meets the original colour it looks like a slightly darker stain. I suppose that can't be helped because of the colour match. The lacquer is silky in parts and dry matt in others I put 3 coats on will the wet and dry sort this out too?

It's been hot in the UK for a few days I painted early in the morning in the shade but temps have been reaching 23 dregrees from about 9am so can't be helped.

Also what's the technique for using G3 and G10 by hand is it a side to side action or more rotating action?

I bought the spoiler off eBay for £46 with a Green brake light to match the Green Hella coloured lenses all round. I got ripped off as the brake light did not work and when I tried to take it apart it cracked along the underside (luckily not the part the light shines through) also the components inside were rusted through so I'm trying to plastic weld the cracked part and then colour coding with the spoiler and replacing all the rusted resistors and diodes...TOO MUCH EFFORT!

I think new Hella spoilers cost £80-100 from Euro Car Parts.

p.s. If you find Hella Magic Color green lenses for your Polo they look fantastic with our colour car (the box mine came in had Japanese/Chinese writing on so look for suppliers in Japan or HongKong which might be closer to you I know eBay Germany has lots of these) check out the link:
http://www.venommotorsport.com/venomcar ... index.html

Cheers, Mo

G'day Mo
Good to hear your getting on with the painting, the dry areas are to be expected if the temp is warm and yes the p1500 should sort this out just go a bit careful as dry areas usually mean the paint has been applied lightly i.e not afull wet coat thogh this cant be helped if the area is hard to reach. so rub lightly a few times cut with G10 then if it needs a bit more do it again its better to do it lightly a few times rather than risk rubbing through with one big hard sand.

On the correct way to cut/polish you will have less chance of rubbing through if you use a circular motion but sometimes this is not possible due to corners/edges etc .

ta for the info on the spoiler sorry to here about the quality of the one of ebay

I've found a site in ozzy that sells those rear lights and i'm waiting on quote from them. i've also just got a german kit with sidesirts,full lower rear bumper and a front spliter i'm going to fit it up this weekend to make sure it fits i'll take a couple of pics and post them here before i take them off for painting. i've also got some clear indicators [vag] arriving from singapore for the front as you can see i have to shop around the world for my mods as unless you've got a jap you cant get anything here. CHEERS

MY POLO AS IS TODAY[but not tomorrow]
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