UK-POLOS.NET - THE VW Polo Forum

i carnt find my enigne code and the white stiker on the cam belt cover is missing. dose anybody no if it is anywhere else on the engine can i use the head number to find out if it is 1.0 or 1.3 any help will be put to good use thanks

there should be a white sticker in the boot as well under the carpet towards the very rear of the car.

if the car's running, find a nice long bit of road that's not troubled by the fuzz and floor it .... or take a mate and do a 0-60 run

1.0 - peters out around 90mph, should take about 20secs 2-up
1.3 spi - mid to high 90s, about 15 secs
1.3 mpi (GT) - well over the ton, about 12 secs

other than that, it should surely say on the registration document somewhere? (and if it's the original engine in the car, put the reg number into any one of hundreds of insurance websites and see what it says)

thanks. its not the origenal engine, i swopted it cos it had a running problem but it terned out not to be the engine (thinking ecu). not all bad cos its serposed to be 1.3, had 1.0, but no pruf hence need the code to get the right ecu. would 1.3 run on 1.0 ecu???

hmmm tricky. It won't run well, that's for certain. The basic timing, and more particularly the basic fuel injector control and idling programs will be out of kilter by a good 20% or so. The lambda sensor and the electronic timing adjustment gear should be able to compensate for this (such as they do e.g. when you put in a different grade of fuel, or a standard engine loses a cylinder due to a bad plug/lead/dizzy) but it won't be happy, particularly if one of those also conks out. Also if you floor it, it may kick into a high performance mode where it runs SOLELY off the internal program. I have a feeling this feature is only implemented on the GT and G40 engine types, but as it would lead to fuel starvation and lean running at high revs (apt to produce excessive cylinder temperatures, piston meltage, engine seizure and other lovely effects) I wouldn't want to recommend you run a 1.0 ECU on a 1.3 as anything other than an emergency measure. The other way round would actually be preferable; all that will happen with overfuelling (1.3 ECU on a 1.0) is that it will smell, be inefficient, gradually coke up (which can be fixed) and may kill the catalyser (who cares on a car so old?)

If you're really stuck, pull the plug out of one of the cylinders, turn the engine to bottom dead centre on that piston, and pour in oil from a measuring jug until it just starts flowing out of the hole. That should tell you the capacity per cylinder (do it quickly, as it'll seep past the piston rings, especially when cold), and just multiply by four from there. It's how insurers used to measure the cc of engines in written off cars, so i've been told.
(then put a tray underneath (AND on top of the engine as it'll squirt out HARD), disconnect the distributor-to-coil lead and crank it round on the starter a few times to clear the cylinder before you reinster the plug)

e.g. 1043 / 4 = 261ml-ish, 1272 / 4 = 318ml... a small but measurable distinction. Significant deviation from this either means my method's all f***ed up, or you've got a customised/uncommon motor based on different combinations of the original parts (or boring-out), e.g. a 1348, 1398, 1089cc or similar.

Also if it came as one piece, there's a difference in the size of the inlet manifold/throttle bodies or something, but i forget how to tell with that...

When it comes to white stickers, you should definately look, but be prepared for it to have suffered moisture damage (esp. if you have leaky seals anywhere) or to have been scraped off all together with the passage of time. I never did find any in mine...

PS next time you swap an engine... try to get all the parts in one go! The ECU should come with it...
(A Q. for the tuning chip makers around these parts - will putting a 1.3 ROM into a 1.0 ECU make it a 1.3 (spi) ECU? Or are there other fundamental differences?)

cheers ill be tryin that tommorow. im thinkin its 1.0 now cos it runs pritty much the same.(someone got cond)

Here Are The Engine Codes That You May Need,
AAU, 1.0 (1043cc),
AAV, 1.3 (1272cc SPi),
NZ, 1.3 (1272cc MPi Vaccum Dizzy),
3F, 1.3 (1272cc Mpi (GT)),
PY, 1.3 (1272cc MPi Supercharged (G40)).