Changed the pedal box myself. - Solving it and gearchanges
Posted: Mon Jan 08, 2007 5:32 pm
I inspected the pedal box closely and determined that it was cracked both on the clutch mount and also the throttle sender mount which is a bit odd.
Anyway, I got a new box 26 + vat, then I realised that I would need to remove the steering column to do the job. This meant chiseling two bloody shearbolts out.
I found the best way was to grind the sheerbolts flat, then drill 3mm holes through the bolts, then drill a 10mm drill until the head comes off then I removed the column.
Then removed the clutch pedal, then disconnect the break pedal.
Then with some swearing and wiggling, the pedal box comes out.
When I went to the VW parts counter, they had a GTi recall note and I read it and it said the brake pedal needs replacing, which costs 17 quid. So I followed the list of bits that they replace and I did it.
I didn't replace the sheer bolts though, I put in M8 hex head bolts.
Now the clutch is nice and light and creak free.
I couldn't work out initially how the bracket breaking affects clutch operation but eventually I figured out that the clutch cable sheath works against the bracket, so the bracket gets pulled towards you with the same force as the clutch.
I seems that the initial cause is that the clutch driven plate splines get gummed up, so the clutch release becames progressively heavy. This then causes the clutch bracket on the pedal box to break, which then prevents the clutch release working, which then causes your gear change to start buggering your syncromesh and if you are unlucky, you end up with gearbox failure. I can see now why people have had gearbox after gearbox. Because the fault is elsewhere.
I will produce a PDF of the steps involved.
So there you go, it can be done with one weekend and DIY.
Anyway, I got a new box 26 + vat, then I realised that I would need to remove the steering column to do the job. This meant chiseling two bloody shearbolts out.
I found the best way was to grind the sheerbolts flat, then drill 3mm holes through the bolts, then drill a 10mm drill until the head comes off then I removed the column.
Then removed the clutch pedal, then disconnect the break pedal.
Then with some swearing and wiggling, the pedal box comes out.
When I went to the VW parts counter, they had a GTi recall note and I read it and it said the brake pedal needs replacing, which costs 17 quid. So I followed the list of bits that they replace and I did it.
I didn't replace the sheer bolts though, I put in M8 hex head bolts.
Now the clutch is nice and light and creak free.
I couldn't work out initially how the bracket breaking affects clutch operation but eventually I figured out that the clutch cable sheath works against the bracket, so the bracket gets pulled towards you with the same force as the clutch.
I seems that the initial cause is that the clutch driven plate splines get gummed up, so the clutch release becames progressively heavy. This then causes the clutch bracket on the pedal box to break, which then prevents the clutch release working, which then causes your gear change to start buggering your syncromesh and if you are unlucky, you end up with gearbox failure. I can see now why people have had gearbox after gearbox. Because the fault is elsewhere.
I will produce a PDF of the steps involved.
So there you go, it can be done with one weekend and DIY.