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I want to put a sub into my car to improve bass, but I have a few questions (I'm a complete newbie when it comes to ICE).

I want to install a sub in the boot, but I still want to use the boot regularly for sports bags and so I don't want to lug things in and out all the time. Is there a specific size that I should go for (box too)? Should I mount the amp elsewhere? I don't want looks or anything just performance! Oh, and here's a complete newb question: Do I point the sub in towards the front seats or out the back, and why?? Very confusing to me!

Also, could I run the Front components from the outputs of the HU as well as the output to an amp , or is this a no-no? Are Parcel shelf speakers worth installing? as I have two spare outputs for rear speakers on the HU?

BTW, I have a sony HU if that's any help. Any recommendations on front components? Mids and tweets? Not got a huge budget so, go easy on the wallet with your imaginary spendings!!

Thanks,

John

You'll need to find a sub with the smallest recommended sealed box dimensions (it all depends upon the speaker parameters so it will vary). I have seen some very compact VIBE boxes (which are actually vented) and heard they are awesome. My Fosgate needs a huge box, so maybe avoid them?

You can probably tuck the amp away somewhere convenient, or do a hidden floor thingy (I think Josh has a good example).

It shouldn't matter on the direction of the speaker, people have their theories but with low down bass it's not directional so it shouldn't have much of an effect (unless you point it towards the floor ).

What do you want to do with the headunit? power the fronts as well as have the fronts linked to an amp? you can't do this, but you can power the fronts from the head unit and use the head unit's RCA cable to go to an amp. I don't know if I understand the question fully.

If you're on a budget, then don't do parcel shelf speakers. You can pick up decent component fronts for less than a ton, no probs.

hope this helps

CHeers for the reply!

I would like the HU to power the fronts from its own amplifier, and take the sub out of the RCA outputs, just wondering if they would work together and one not switch the other off.

Anyone recomend some could components? What size should they be?

Hi Nelson,

The sub out (or other pre outs) will actually work together with the regular high output leads.

I second the above comment that a parcel shelf speaker setup is more or less unnecessary if you're running a sub.

If you're buying an amp anyway, you may want to consider getting a four channel amp, then use the front channels for the components in the doors/dash. The other two can then be bridged (used together) towards the sub. This three channel setup is what I've used in several cars now, and I love it.

You can mount the amp anywhere, it's not influenced by magnetic fields (of the sub) or vibrations. I know the SQL crowd won't agree, but in real world situations you'd probably won't know the difference.

You can point the sub anywhere, as the low frequencies travel throughout the car without any problem. As a general rule, the lower the frequency, the less direction sensitive it gets. Tweeters, on the other hand, are very aim-sensitive.

Since I had the same requirements as you, regarding my install, I opted to take out the spare wheel and jack. I then installed a small sealed enclosure (25 litres) for the sub, with the amp next to it. Both bits are covered with a carpeted board so the boot is fully usable. I did however loose some of the boot's depth, but it's now actually easier to put bags in (less depth!). The whole thing doesn't look like much (you can't see anything really) but it does the job, well.

If you're not willing to give up the spare wheel just yet (I can imagine you aren't!) you can always opt to fit the sub box and amp on top of the wheel, or to one side to allow access to it.

You also asked if there was a specific size to go for (sub wise), and I can give you yet another guideline; smaller subs (10 inch, instead of 12 for example) generally require smaller enclosures. My current 12" requires .88 cu. ft. whereas it's 10" little brother wants just .66 cu. ft. Another general guideline is that ported boxes tend to be bigger than sealed boxes. The type of enclosure is determined by the sub itself, so check before you buy.

HTH!

Cheers for the prompt replies!!

I'm asuming the front door speakers are 6.5 inch ones? Also, if the speakers come with crossovers, where do I mount them?? they look quite large in the pics.

I'm thinking of a JBL setup with GTO6506ce components, a GTO-4000 amp (4 channel), a GT3-10" Sub with box.

I would like to have a fair amount of usable space in the boot, and I'm not fussed about the spare tyre, I can take it out. Does anything sound wrong with this plan? If I use the other two channels on the amp for the fronts, how much extra cabling am I looking at? Are there limits of where I can run the cable If I mount the amp where the spare tyre was?

Just seen your setup Speedlaw, where did you get that box? or did you carpet the boot yourself? Where'd you find the material?

Sorry bout all the questions.

John

I opted to use the HU to power the fronts and use the rca for the sub - just like you are wanting to do.

I took out the old tweeters in the dash, then managed to squeeze the crossovers in this space (just underneath) and glued the tweeters above the crossovers. The original grills then fit on - and then no one knows i have tons of ICE in my car! I prefer not showing my ICE off to mr T Hief.

The Alpine 6.5 inch component set is very nice, and _just_ fits in the door.

You will need a fair bit of wire to bring it from the boot to the front doors if you get a 4 channel amp. It's something I haven't done but it's possible - I am not sure if you can wire the speaker wires alongside the RCA cable due to interference - anyone know if you can? With a false floor you will be able to hide all the wiring.

the cables are ok to be run together as they are both low voltage

Keep the questions coming, that's what we're here for.

Here's how my setup looks at the moment:



As you can see, you can't really see.



What model do you have exactly?

On my Mk4, I managed to hide the crossovers behind the dash. There's some space underneath the passenger side airbag, behind that small space for gloves or what-have-you. Of course, it differs from model to model, but there's always some space to hide them.

At the moment I've got the tweeters in the dash (aiming towards the sky) but I'm hoping to get them in the A-pillars before the summer's here again. This should improve staging and imaging tremendously.

As Ash said, there's no problem if you run 4 RCA's (or two stereo RCA's) along side speaker cables. I did run the power line on the other side, just to be sure.

Alex - sweeeeeeeeeeeeet

but does the covering of the sub spoil the sound?

One other nagging thought:

How do I bring the cable down through the sills?? Don't I have to remove a lot of trim for this? Any pictures?

Also, If I bring the speaker cables back down one side, does that not mean that I have to pass one of them through the dash and across to the opposite door?

Is there really a sub under there??? If there is....that's amazing! More piccy's please.

John

Doh! Stupid me!

It wasn't your setup i was admiring Speedlaw (not that I'm saying yours isn't), but it was Josh's! Can josh answer my question?!

Sorry!

ahhh, lift the door seals up and shove em between the gap in the sill and the floor pan. works perfectly and very very quick



and yes you will have to do a lot of wiring for the opposite side front speaker

:)

the b@sta3d door speakers are rivetted on to the door mountings on the 9n! Thats what put me off the whole preplacement project but they are off now so the worse is over. Bloody rivets? why? I can see the obvious reason being that rivets have less chance of vibrating/give than screws but still what a b1tch.

I'm a 6N so I'm ok i think.

There's a sub and amp underneath. The board that covers both is perforated by the way, and it's not airtight on top of the sub or amp either; so preliminary results are promising.

I kinda forgot to take more pics however, you'll have to take my word for it.

6N speakers are simply screwed in, so you'll be fine.

HTH!