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I'm getting a new set of component speakers this week, in fact they should arrive here any day now, Focal 165K PolyKevlars if you're interested. I would just like some advice on how to fit them and do a tidy job. I know an amp/sub combination would be excellent but I don't have the cash right now and am moving one step at a time.

I intend to wire the components straight up to my head-unit in place of the existing factory fitted speakers. I am basicallly looking for a quick step-by-step guide of removing the current and fitting the new. Where is the best place to fit the crossover box? I've been told within the door is a pretty good place, but will removing the door card be an issue at all? How easy is that and is it worthwhile putting some sound deadening in there if I choose to go down that route? Again, how simple is that?

Cheers

Hey Enc,

Good choice on the components.

Where is the best place to fit the crossover box?

I chose to fit the crossovers behind the passenger side dash, just under the airbag. There's this small cubby hole (I think that's what it's called) which can be taken out very easily. Behind this, there's enough space to fit two large crossovers. It comes out with just two philips head screws in both upper corners.

I've been told within the door is a pretty good place, but will removing the door card be an issue at all?

The door card is actually pretty easy to remove. I don't really know if there's a good place for the crossovers to hide, but you can always try of course.

The doorpanels come off as follows:

1. Unscrew the door pin cover (that plastic thingy)

2. Unclip the handle cover, start from the bottom and gently pry it off

3. You'll see two screws (Philips head), take them out

4. Unclip the mirror base cover. Gently. This will break if you just look at it. Just pull it outwards, not forward or backward, as you'll break the clips.

5. Start pulling the door cover from the bottom part up, just use your fingers. You'll hear loud pops to indicate it's coming off.

To fit the speakers in the doors, there's no need to take the entire panel off. The speaker grill will pop out on its own as well, so that should suffice.

is it worthwhile putting some sound deadening in there if I choose to go down that route? Again, how simple is that?

I drove around without any damping for a long time and finally bit the bullet a couple of months ago. I chose to line the door with that black bitumen stuff. This basically lowers the vibration frequency of the metal of the door, so it's less likely to vibrate. You could also line the door card with poly resin, which makes the panel stiffer - again, to make it less likely to vibrate or move.

Lining the metal is easy enough on itself, but you need to pull off the rain shielding foam door lining. Or whatever it's called. This stuff is stuck on there and the glue-tape holding it on is though as nails. You can get it off though, just take your time and try not to tear it. This stuff makes sure no water gets in the car so you do need it.

Also, make an incision in the foam just below the woofer so the woofer uses the volume of the door. This will in fact increase the SQ tremendously.

Hope all this helps!

Thanks Speedlaw. I think I'm ok with the component side of things now. Lining the door doesn't look to easy from what you say however if I'd have to remove existing foam etc as it is. I might try to avoid tampering with the door-card this time round and just go for fitting the components.

Will I require any extra wire of some sorts and connectors to be able to hook everything up correctly? Or is it just unplug and plug.

Np Enc.

You can always do without the damping and fit it once you're fed up with the rattles (if any) and the poorer bass response.

I used cable adapters from VW, to connect the block type connectors coming out of the door to the speakers. This was to avoid cutting up the original connectors, but I guess SQ freaks wouldn't even use the OE cables anyway (let alone getting an adapter for them). The dealer should have these btw, it's just a block-acceptor-thingie with two unstripped wires coming out the other end.

The tweeters have their own designated cables coming from the crossovers, because there's enough room behind the dash to run and hide these cables.

Thanks again. Just gotta find this dash spot now