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im hoping to change the filter this weekend. coulc any one give me some tips on it before i go ahead.. and if theres anything i should watch out for?

also. is it hard to change the feul pump?? anddd is there any places which sell faster flowing pumps and filters??

also. at the weekend im hoping to change all of these:

-put in GT camshaft
-change cambelt
-change water pump
-change HT leads to magnacore ones
-change sparkpluggs
-feul filter
-maybe feul pump depending how hard it is
-oil filter and change with enginee flush


is there anything else any one can think of changing or doing to just give my car a bit more of a service whilst im at it. or can anyone give advice before i go ahead and brake my car


-thanks!!

do u know what your doing when working on cars? if not i wouldnt attempt the timing belt.

x2

you fitting new cam, cam belt and water pump

and questioning how hard fuel pump is ?

Hardcore wrote:im hoping to change the filter this weekend. coulc any one give me some tips on it before i go ahead.. and if theres anything i should watch out for?

also. is it hard to change the feul pump?? anddd is there any places which sell faster flowing pumps and filters??

also. at the weekend im hoping to change all of these:

-put in GT camshaft
-change cambelt
-change water pump
-change HT leads to magnacore ones
-change sparkpluggs
-feul filter
-maybe feul pump depending how hard it is
-oil filter and change with enginee flush


is there anything else any one can think of changing or doing to just give my car a bit more of a service whilst im at it. or can anyone give advice before i go ahead and brake my car


-thanks!!

The first thing you'll need to do is depressurise the fuel system. Locate and remove the fuel pump fuse. Turn the ignition and let the engine run until it dies (around 1-2 minutes). Discconect the battery negative lead.

When you disconnect the hoses from the filter do expect petrol to pour out and have rags at hand to soak up spills - Do NOT put your head right underneath the filter or you will end up with petrol on your face.

Take note of the direction arrows on the old filter and make sure you match them up with the new filter.

Once you've replaced the filter, replace the fuse and reconnect the battery, turn the key to the position before the engine starts to let the fuel system re-prime itself, wait 10 seconds, start your engine. Leave it running for a few minutes whilst you check for leaks around the filter.

I hope that helps, if you need any more tips/advice, ask in this thread.

Swapping fuel-pumps isn't hard, describtion is already given here above. But why bother swapping? Getting a pump from for instance a Golf VR6 would get your system running on higher pressure, but is doesn't get your performance up, the fuel-pressure regulator still gets it by approx. 1 Bar through the injectors, swapping pumps won't change this, getting a decent fuel pressure regulator will, and will make get the best out of your present pump without stressing it (it always pumps it's pressure, no matter how much pressure is used to inject into the engine).

And I do need to stress that I follow the above opinions, if you don't have a lcue of engine work, swapping the cam could be disastrous for your engine, when you time it incorrect...... well, let's just say it could cost you an engine & quit some cash

no its ok. jay has done one to his and is a machanic on forklifts. hes doing i for me whilst i assist. i was just posting this up to give us a bit of an advantage as we could gain a little more knowledge before hand on changing the feul filter.

hes already fitted a GT cam in his so im in trust worthy hands

is that the directions to change the filter btw or the pump? by the sounds of it all i will be changing is the filter

i dont want to fit a regulator as it may alter everything, and might mess my feul immisions up and fail MOT :O

Hardcore wrote:i dont want to fit a regulator as it may alter everything, and might mess my feul immisions up and fail MOT :O

Tha's the fun part of a regulator, you can always set it back again on the original settings, not failing any emissions-tests

hmmm. interesting. do you know what pressure i sould have it set at if i get one then?? with the GT cam. would a de-cat make any difference aswell or isnt it worth the hassle for the increase it gives?

Hardcore wrote:would a de-cat make any difference aswell or isnt it worth the hassle for the increase it gives?

If your considering de-catting, for it to make a significant difference you want to be looking at a new manifold, backbox and straight through system.

De-catting is the best mod you can make on your exhaust, performance oriented. Next comes the manifold, the the cat-back system.

Pressure -> varies per set-up, but can easily be changed if it isn't to your wishes, just change the pressure again

i already have a 4 branch manifold and a straight throo stainless exhaust system

would it pass mot if i bolted the cat on? or does it have to be welded?

Hardcore wrote:i already have a 4 branch manifold and a straight throo stainless exhaust system

would it pass mot if i bolted the cat on? or does it have to be welded?

Bolt is fine as far as I'm aware.

Yeah the bolt is fine, and if it passes without the cat you dont need one, as long as you dont go above the emmison limit, you can have what you want, ie not cat or cat