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EGR valve renewal.

Find a tapered ¼” to ⅜” tapered rubber plug or something similar.
Disconnect the battery
Clamp the outlet pipe from the coolant reservoir.
Remove the two bolts holding the engine cover.
Remove the air pipe from the underside left of the cover.
Remove the air pipe from the underside right of the cover.
Detach the plug leads from the cover grooves.
Lift the back of the cover off the two rubber mounts.
Put the cover to one side, one pipe still attached.
Disconnect the electrical plug from the top of the EGR valve.
Remove the two bolts from the EGR pipe flange.
Remove the three valve body to cylinder head Allen screws.
Recover the gaskets.
Temporarily seal the bottom water outlet with the rubber plug.

Refitting is a reversal of the above.
Check the coolant level before and after running the engine.

I was only stripping this with a view to cleaning it, rather than renewing it, but the actuator although seemingly fastened on with two small screws is actually fixed solid over time ... it would only be worth stripping it down if you knew where the next one was coming from.

Ray

Be sure to disconnect your battery too while doing this

Thanks Bepe,

Now edited.

Does anyone have a known working EGR valve lying around they would be willing to part with?

Ray

i did have until i fitted it to my car, its been currently disconnected for the past year and it runs so much better not clogging up the intake, throttle body etc and is more responsive

Bepe, You have a PM

Thanks
Ray

I've realised why the EGR valve stopped working ... I think

In April the engine light came on due to a misfire on number one cylinder caused by a damaged plug, caused by a damaged lead. Changed the plugs and leads and the car ran better than ever.

But the light stayed on.

The following day I found the vacuum pipe to the EGR was detached

I said at the time

... Is there a fault that could have been caused by the pipe to the top box being disconnected for a while?

I’m now thinking the EGR stopped moving the day the vacuum pipe was off and hasn’t moved since.

Which raises a few questions.

1. Is the valve normally closed or normally open ... when the car is parked up?
2. Does it open electrically?
3. Does it close electrically?
4. What does the vacuum pipe do?
5. When people choose to have them “not working” are they open or closed?
6. What electrical modification would be needed to have it open, not working and the engine light not coming on?


Thanks Ray

if i remember correctly they open fully when the engine is cold and stay open until maximum operating temp is reached then after theat they open up at 3000rpm

oh and there operated by electric and vaccumm but the butterfly is opened via the vacumm from the brake servo line

Does anyone have a spare working EGR valve ... Thank you Ray

The car is now sold but here are the numbers marked on a 1.0E 6n EGR Valve for future reference

030 131 503 F
SJS 388050
1411B CZ
424440670


Ray