UK-POLOS.NET - THE VW Polo Forum

You'll get some replies - I've moved it into the 6R forum as more people visit this section

Hi
Before you clay it you want to spray some Iron-X, Kerrosol or similar over the car which will remove any fallout (iron particles, etc), then if you have any tar spots a quick spray over with Tardis, etc - shouldn't be much tar but amazing how falliut seems to get on new cars.
A clay mitt is quicker and easier than a clay bar and gets the same results

Try this site for more info - http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/index.php great for help on any subject regarding detailing

BigStu, what you might or might not need to do by way of cleansing / polishing your paintwork on your first clean will depend to some extent on the quality of the dealer's prep.

Some dealers are better than others; with some of the poorer dealers, I've read horror stories of new cars being presented to customers with heavily swirl-inflicted paintwork. If this happens, then it would require more work to correct the paintwork to a satisfactory condition before applying any form of sealant / wax. If this happened to me, I'd either want the dealer to pay for the car to be corrected by a professional detailer at the dealers expense, or reject the car. It's becoming increasingly common for owners who are into car detailing to ask the dealer not to clean the car prior to collection, but just to remove the protective plastic sheeting and and stickers to avoid dealer-inflicted swirls.

I've never used a sealant, as I prefer using a good wax for protection. The process I used on my car a couple of weeks after I picked it up was the following; quite comprehensive, but I'm quite into car detailing these days!

- Washed car; 3 bucket method (separate one for wheels, red brake calipers and plastic wheel arch liners) and lambs wool mitt.
- Dried bodywork using 'fluffy' drying towels (prefer these to waffle weave towels).
- Decontaminated the paintwork and wheels with iron-x and Tardis to remove fallout and tar. It isn't always necessary to clay the car, as good fallout and tar remover products might be sufficient to remove any embedded contaminants. If you do clay, make sure you use plenty of lubricant to avoid marring the paintwork. Even on a new car, there can be quite a lot of bonded contaminants on the paintwork, so it is a good idea to undertake a decontamination stage.
- Washed and dried a second time; same method as above.
- inspected black plastic on 'B' pillars and triangular section near rear quarter light on rear doors (5 door model) for swirls and black plastic lip on the tailgate spoiler. This shiny piano black plastic is very susceptible to swirls - mine had them! Removed swirls with Poorboys SSR 2 swirl remover on an orange Shinemate foam pad on my DA polisher.
- applied a paint cleaner; I used Dodo juice Lime Prime on a white hexlogic foam pad to the paintwork with my DA polisher (can be applied by hand with good results too). This improves the bonding properties to the paintwork of whatever wax/sealant you use. Buff off with a clean microfibre cloth.
- applied Poorboys Black Hole glaze (for dark coloured cars) to paintwork by hand with a foam applicator. Remove with a clean microfibre cloth.
- applied one coat of Collinite 845 insulator wax by hand with a foam applicator pad - to car bodywork and wheels. Removed with a clean microfibre cloth. Applied a second layer 24 hours later for added protection.
- Dressed tyres and exterior black plastic with FinishKare 108AS Top Kote Tyre Dressing.

As I'm quite into car detailing I've amassed a collection of different products over the years (including Autoglym products). If you're not careful, it can become addictive and quite expensive! Although I've not used Autoglym EGP, I'd say that as a general rule, good preparation is key, and will help improve the bonding of the sealant to the paintwork and increase the longevity of its protection.

Good luck and enjoy!

I was the same as you before I picked mine up thinking I need to get all these products to make is sparkle.

All you need is a good wash mitt, 2 buckets and grit guards, snow foam lance and jet wash (tesco's doing a karcher k2 for £48 is a bargain, I have tried 3 different jet washes and took them back till I found the K2) and many microfiber cloths, drying towels (not leather chaminos) and microfiber applicator pads.

When i first picked up the car i used a bit of de-containment and a non wax car wash to remove any wax and de-containment from the dealer, fully washed with snow foam ect then applied gtechniq c2 v3 paint sealant to the car, and every 1-2 weeks I wash with every 3rd wash applying a top up of the c2v3. My car is solid black and the swirl marks are extremely minimal after 3 months. Just remember do not wash in circles allways go back and forth in the same direction on a panel, do not cross over the wipe pattern. I recommend also drying the car with a quick detailing spray to lube up the towels and prevent swirls when rubbing tiny bits you might have missed and if you have the cloth seats get some getechniq fabric protector.

You could go crazy but who has the time to spend 2-3 hours doing their car every week and from 5 meters away there will be barely any difference in appearance between a semi detail and a good wash, maybe a little less shine but that's it.

Thanks for this tread and useful replies. My new Polo is due in the depths of this coming winter, not the best time to be giving its first detail session!