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iichel wrote:i did it already a few times. i don't have a guide, but it is possible and quite straight-forward.
Wow, You've done a lot of modifications
Did you changed the entire rear beam axle or only brakes? Theoretically, replacing the entire rear beam axle is simpler and cheaper (if you buy used parts)
well you could opt to replace the entire rear axle but i think it's more work.
you need to do some (relatively) simple steps:
- remove the wheel
- remove the drum
- remove the drum brake mechanism (incl brake lines)
- remove the hub
- remove the handbrake wires
then you mount:
- the dust tins
- the axle
- the handbrake wires
- the brake caliper
- the brake disc
the final step is to bleed the system. this is very important.
and of course, you'll need to update the ABS unit coding with vcds.
it's about three or four hours work, but this way you will not need to remove the entire rear axle. this way it's a job that you can simply do on your own.
you'll be needing some specialist tools:
a brake bleeding device
a 30mm spline (12-tooth nut)
I think that the horrible truth is. that on these cars, rear drum brakes are okay! I rather having rear disc brakes, have had them for years on all my cars, even my wife's old and new Polo, but they brakes, while looker better and being easier to service, are not given enough work to do so fowl up and cause trouble! For instance at 12 months old and 8.5K miles the rear discs look rough/grooved/rusty and terrible!
Edit:- anyway I am too old to be a hipster, maybe I am a version of what the original hipsters were based on?
iichel wrote: Mon Feb 13, 2017 7:57 am
well you could opt to replace the entire rear axle but i think it's more work.
you need to do some (relatively) simple steps:
- remove the wheel
- remove the drum
- remove the drum brake mechanism (incl brake lines)
- remove the hub
- remove the handbrake wires
then you mount:
- the dust tins
- the axle
- the handbrake wires
- the brake caliper
- the brake disc
the final step is to bleed the system. this is very important.
and of course, you'll need to update the ABS unit coding with vcds.
it's about three or four hours work, but this way you will not need to remove the entire rear axle. this way it's a job that you can simply do on your own.
you'll be needing some specialist tools:
a brake bleeding device
a 30mm spline (12-tooth nut)
iichel wrote: Thu Feb 08, 2018 7:04 am
Depends on your abs system and current brake configuration
Today I tried to change that code because swapped the drums for brakes, but I keep getting error 22 on VCDS when trying to apply the code.(changing byte 02. 24->28)
so my question: How did you guys code it? and is there a special procedure for it?
iichel wrote: Thu Feb 08, 2018 7:04 am
Depends on your abs system and current brake configuration
Today I tried to change that code because swapped the drums for brakes, but I keep getting error 22 on VCDS when trying to apply the code.(changing byte 02. 24->28)
so my question: How did you guys code it? and is there a special procedure for it?
many Thanks!
byte 02 -> original 24 insert 28
byte 10 -> original 24 insert 14
Yes the post above is correct. If you adapt the brake size, you'll need to adapt byte 2 to 24 and byte 10 to the inverse of byte 2. That should give an accepted coding.
As RUM4MO has said (and again with no disrespect) they really aren't needed on the 1.4 unless you are planning track days?
Bearing in mind expense and hassle can I ask why you want to do it or what benefit you are looking for?
Gee40 wrote: Mon Apr 22, 2019 8:28 am
As RUM4MO has said (and again with no disrespect) they really aren't needed on the 1.4 unless you are planning track days?
Bearing in mind expense and hassle can I ask why you want to do it or what benefit you are looking for?
1.4 gasoline - diesel / how many hp? Surely it is nice to have them especially for the handbrake that does not creak when used but we are talking about spending at least 300 euros if the car has less than 90 hp and you don't always push it to maximum drums are enough