Franciswat's Polo 6R 1.6 Bifuel

[patil]

Yes, there are few good adds with 1k8 unit

- pulling reverse disable front pdc (don't remember if old unit did same) and viceversa

This is not true. On engaging reverse, along with rear camera image, all 8 sensors including front will be still active. If there comes an obstacle in front when reverse is engaged, front sensors start buzzing. See picture below:

[Franciswat]

Thanks for the informations Fernando.
I've seen you replaced rear trunk gas strut. I've to replace mine as well, just ordered. Why you ordered extra powered one If I may ask? I'm bit worried they can overstress the trunk when opening and make bit harder to close it.

This is not true. On engaging reverse, along with rear camera image, all 8 sensors including front will be still active. If there comes an obstacle in front when reverse is engaged, front sensors start buzzing. See picture below:

Well thanks for pointing that. My mistake.

[ciclo]

The reason for slightly increasing the power/force of the tailgate gas struts from 325N to 350N is due to the weight of the original RVC fitted to the emblem.

I think I adequately explained the reasoning ... viewtopic.php?p=589038#p589038 (the first image is blunt)
I suppose that the translator does not translate correctly, it usually happens for certain languages.

Don't worry if you have the RVC emblem installed, with 350N the tailgate will open and close just as smoothly/sweetly as it did from the factory.

[Franciswat]

Thanks Fernando I missed the correlation with rvc initially, my fault. you think I can use the same 350N gas strut even if I don't have rvc retrofitted?

[ciclo]

I think you won't have any kind of problem, that is, you won't have to improve your physical condition to close/open the tailgate.
A range between 325N and 360N (WRC) will be fine for 6R.

[Franciswat]

Exhausted trunk's gas struts replaced.

Thank you Fernando for replacement parts details.

[ciclo]

[Franciswat]

Hello guys, I'm having a clock syncronization issue with my CM radio: clock is stuck at 00:00 and changes to 6:28 for a few moments every time a minute passes.
https://youtu.be/snDeRbW_DfA
Searching on the internet looks like I need to code my IC eeprom and here comes an other problem: how to do so?
If possible I'd like to operate trough OBD without disassembly the IC. You have any experience with any tools able to do it?
The last chance will be to operate directly on eeprom chip once disassembled the IC. In this case a tool like that may work on our IC eeprom (I've no idea about chipset specifics)?

https://www.amazon.it/KeeYees-SOIC8-EEP ... B07SNTL5V6

Thank you

[ag69]

Exhausted trunk's gas struts replaced.

Out of blue -- as and when possible could you please share the dimension of this false floor (6R0858855B)?
I am going to make one with 4mm or 6mm plywood with cloth.
roughly i know it is 3ft wide x 2 ft deep

[Franciswat]

Exhausted trunk's gas struts replaced.

Out of blue -- as and when possible could you please share the dimension of this false floor (6R0858855B)?
I am going to make one with 4mm or 6mm plywood with cloth.
roughly i know it is 3ft wide x 2 ft deep

94 cm x 59 cm but consider shape is not regular.

[patil]

Hello guys, I'm having a clock syncronization issue with my CM radio: clock is stuck at 00:00 and changes to 6:28 for a few moments every time a minute passes.

This is the bug created by older SW versions( SW 446 or lower) of CM/DM when they are software unlocked to remove CP. This bug was fixed in later versions of Mib2 eg; SW 468 and higher.

You can also use this tool viewtopic.php?p=589480#p589480

Whatever value is there in highlighted part should be made 00 in your cluster eeprom.


If you end up using CH341A tool, it's safe to solder wires temporarily to each leg of eeprom chip and connect all the wires to CH341A tool and then read and save the eeprom dump before you edit. The alligator clip of CH341A tool is notorious to slip during eeprom reading, may end up many blocks not being read and saved. Don't end up bricking cluster like me.

“Always try to learn from other people’s mistakes, not your own- it is much cheaper that way!”

" Donald Trump"

[ciclo]

“Always try to learn from other people’s mistakes, not your own- it is much cheaper that way!”

" Donald Trump"

I followed his advice, which is why I don't use my smartphone to make super smart comments on free social networks.



... I only do them on this free forum:
Even the finest whore farts.

[amer6R]

Use double Read then compare two files ?
Hahaha and also take it to someone who has a fine fine wire and has good soldering skills. haha ask me how I know I lifted two pads trying to unsolder the eeprom without proper tools, luckly we fixed it.

[ag69]

94 cm x 59 cm but consider shape is not regular.

Thank you Franciswat!!

[Franciswat]

Let's resume this topic guys.

After working on EEPROM I feel to share few tips about the job.
But first of all thanks to Benzinkopf and Patil for supporting me on this BIG challenge (BIG at least for me ).

Tip #1: solder wires instead of using that devil's instrument which is alligator clip (Patil docet).



Tip #2: don't use "black plate" version of CH341A programmer. It's garbage: discontinuous readings and voltage issue. AVOID!



I became crazy to find out what the problem was. CH341A read eeprom and a moment later he didn't anymore.
I was worried I had damaged the chip. Fortunatelly later I found I didnt.



Tip #3: use "blue plate" version of CH341A programmer. Harder to find but everything worked like a charm.
"Green plate" version even better but rarer than the holy grail.

Use double Read then compare two files ?

Tip #4: don't forget to always compare the readings just like amer6R said above!

Mission accomplished!
EEPROM SUCCESSFYLLY READ AND WRITTEN

Stay tuned for next updates.

PS

ask me how I know I lifted two pads trying to unsolder the eeprom without proper tools

Worried to ask.