UK-POLOS.NET - THE VW Polo Forum

Hi All ... sorry that this isn't a perfect fit for the forum but it's very knowledgable here ... as it's a Golf 6 with a CBZB ... it has a 6-speed manual coded as a LHY in the manual. Is this an MQ200 and O2Q. It seems that these are more commonly used?

The diff on my transaxle is worn out so much that it's super loud and I asked the boys in the shop to change out both leaking diff seals as they were leaking at the MOT last week. I booked it in and now they don't want to take it apart because the bearings are so shot on the diff that they can wobble the driveshaft flanges very visibly. I'm surprised that it's still running ... in Germany it's quite audible/load on the Autobahn ... same on SANEF in France ... not really in Belgium or England as the road surfaces are worse so you get more tyre noise.

Anyways, they recommend a reman or a used transaxle ... said they should do the clutch set and slave cylinder, which makes sense to me. Said it would take 5h labour (seem accurate).

Do you have any recommendations for a shop on the south coast? it only has 98k on it. it's really my bad as I bought the car with 6k and never changed the transaxle fluid until 70k after a long fast drive to Germany, when the diff started making noise ... i have now learned about VW lifetime intervals.

It seems like used could be a crapshoot? Is reman the way to go and if so, any recommendation.

Many thanks and have a nice evening!

Engine oil max change interval 15 000 km, 10 000 would be the best for the engine.

I change the engine oil every 10000km with VAG-approved oil, but have learned the hard way by not changing the transaxle fluid.

The German side of the family says the car isn't worth it (they just called). Also, with the potential timing chain issues as the car 98k.

We also have two small children now, so any suggestions? That side of the family seems deadset on a SKODA.

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I have heared that the transimisions in 08- period can be a bit noisy, also they arent great at all, and saying that you have to shift really slowly into reverse to avoid a bang or grinding is stupid for 2010- year. Also no synchro's for reverse gear is even dumber.
They say im hating on VW, but im just being honest. Why dont you just buy an used transmision , it would be a lot cheaper than messing with the diff, and bearings.
It's not your fault they use plastic parts in bearing cage, and the when it breaks bearings wreck everything else. It didn't happen because of the oil. I think you can source the transmission for cheap, and it's much easier than trying to rebuild the diff ( because of tolerances involved)
If you aren't going to keep the car because of possible future chain issue just go for the used trans.

It's not your fault that VW is cutting corners, using less thick piston rings, chain etc.

I agree with the above posting, my wife has a 2015 6C Polo 1.2TSI 110PS and I consider the gearbox/diff assembly to be that car's weakest part.

I have tried to pin point the exact model of gearbox etc on that Polo and also on my 2011 Audi S4 - just to be prepared, but in both cases it is not very easy, the Build Data sheet have become less useful - even the CAR DATA printouts.

A transaxle from a same model would be your best bet as long as it has low mileage, I've never ever assumed that leaking oil seals are just that - ie worn oil seals, worn bearings tend to be the main cause of leaking shaft oil seals.

All valid points from all responses.

I have an update ... just for potential future usage and potentially to help anyone ...

2011 VW Golf VI S 1.2 TSI w/CBZB engine and 6-speed LHY gearbox. It's part of the 0AJ family.

It seems that the a riveted pivot pin is a big failure point on these gearboxes. The rivets on the end wear down and allow greater flexibility of the pin to slide around. This has essentially destroyed by diff housing inside and allowed a huge amount of slop and very loud noise. The comment about oil seals is dead on.

This is how I see the UK gearbox market after talking with various people over the last 48h ...

I started with a reputable gearbox rebuilder who confirmed that it's that riveted pin that fails. The LHY is somewhat rare as it's a lowish torque application and the 6-speed is much less common than most other 6-speed options. The price to rebuild its high as the parts aren't mass produced and spares/cores are hard to come by as this results in a catastrophic failure mode. I told him this noise was coming from the diff and he said that the core would be unlikely to be honoured as the internal parts can't be reused as part of the pin are floating around inside the gearbox. He stated this was common with the LHY gearbox and the 0aj family.

There's a thread on it here: https://www.vwvortex.com/threads/diff-p ... xs.643682/

I would use this precise person as they have a ton of experience and only use OEM parts. Price would be around £900 + core charges + VAT for around £1400. Also, we agreed that getting a refurbished unit, even with a warranty, isn't a great option as you don't know what quality of parts are in there and who did the rebuild. The garage I used also has had issues with people sourcing "rebuilt" stuff only to have it wrongly completed, thus causing problems in the future. This rebuild option seems only top-specialist or nothing. (Or me but I'm out of time with two young children).

Kinda pricey when a clutch pack and 6h labour is added on (both needed anyway).

Breaker yards ... saw one for cheap shipped that looks like it's sitting outside in the mud. Most larger yards didn't have one ... one of the largest yards said they've never had one (LHY). And they've had hundreds of gearboxes. Some just look quite tired online. Some places won't send a photo or anything else before purchase.

In the end, I found a large breaker yard in NE England breaking a 2010 Seat Leon 1.4 with the same gearbox still in the car with lowish miles. I'll have it shipped down and installed next week. A little more expensive than the cheapest option.

A couple of interesting points:

1. LHY is what you need for the application (I have attached a photo of the info that came with the car).
2. Word of mouth from the breaker is that the LNY is the same as the LHY gearbox except for the start motor being different. The LNY has start-stop where as the LHY does not. It also seems like the start-stop start motor is larger and has a larger hole for the start motor. Thus, it seems link any of the 0aj gearbox could be used with a non-stop-start application, but the opposite would not work.
3. There is a thread stating something similar here: https://www.digital-kaos.co.uk/forums/s ... -replacing
4. some comparisons between the LNY and the other 0aj gearboxes can be seen here as well: https://volkswagen.7zap.com/en/za/golf/ ... 01-301037/

Some other history. I recently drove over to Germany and back a few times. It seems that diff has been going for a while (so I hope that used one has a little more life in it than mine does). I heard a rumbling for the last 10-20K that I thought was a slight exhaust leak but it seems that it was the diff kind of eating itself. Also, on the last drive back, it seems that I thought I had a misfire when I would accelerate up a slight uphill, go off the throttle and back on hard (Autobahn driving and passing trucks uphill on a two-lane road) but this was likely the diff really disintegrating and sending sharp judders through the car that felt like a misfire (I had the shop change out the plugs, leads, coil pack, air filter, fuel filter to alleviate the misfire when I returned). Glad that I made it back and hope that the new-used gearbox has some life left in it. Would like to squeeze another 20 or 30k miles out of the car before we make some big decision about moving house/etc...

Anyways, as usual, I hope someone finds this info useful.

Here is the attachment an a breakdown of what each code means:

CBZB and LHY being important.

B0N: BLB: Components parts set, GB
CX9: RAD: Steel wheels 6J x 15 weight-optimised
G0K: GSP: 6-speed manual transmission
H6R: REI: Tires 195/65 R15T
J1P: BAT: Battery 220 (44Ah)
DB0: MOT:4-cylinder SI engine 1.2l/77kW TSI base engine is TW0/TP1
1AT: BRS: Electronic stability control (ESC)
1G6: RER: Space-saving spare wheel
1MG: LRA: Steering wheel
1NC: RAA: Wheel trims
5RV: ASR: Right exterior mirror: aspherical
5SJ: ASL: Left exterior mirror: convex
TW0: 4-cylinder SI engine 1.2 l unit 03F.B
0BD: STH: Rear Stabiliser
3U1: GPR: Folding trunk cover
QG1: WIV: Service interval prolongation
BUA: RAO: Radio with CD player
8GU: GEN: Alternator 140A
8ZG: ANT: Antenna for AM/FM reception
1KD: BAH: Disk brakes in rear
1ZF: BAV: Disk brakes in front (Geomet D)
G02: DFV: Shock absorption in front
7MG: AGM: Emission standard EU5
0Y1: KLZ: Standard climatic zones
4UP: AIB: Driver and front passenger airbag with knee airbag and front passenger airbag deactivation
4X3: SAB: Side airbag in front, with curtain airbag
4R5: FEH: Power windows with comfort operation and circuit break, mechanical window regulators rear
4K3: TKV: Radio remote controlled central locking operated from inside and SAFELOCK
N4C: SIB: Seat trim covers in fabric
5MA: EIH: Decorative inserts
8RE: LSE: 4 speakers (passive)
2JB: STF: Standard bumpers
E0A: AAU: NO special edition
0AD: STV: Front stabiliser
0BD: STH: Rear stabiliseer
2UA: SWP: Standard design
2G7: EEB: Filler neck with module 1 with insert
1JA: DFH: Rear shock adsorption, basic version 1
L01: GKV: Suspension range 01 installation control only, no requirement forecast
0YB: GKH: Weight range 2 installation control only, no requirement forecast

This seems to remind me about the gearboxes that Leyland used on the Maestro - rumour had it that it was basically the same Peugeot gearbox that VW used, except the crown wheel was dowelled and glued on the VW and Leland relied on glue only, which meant many Maestro owners lost drive completely - which was probably safer than being able to drive a Leyland car around.