UK-POLOS.NET - THE VW Polo Forum

• always ask the seller if they’ve been refurbished to remove cosmetic imperfections, kerbing/parking damage, or had any structural repairs (e.g. to remove buckling, welding to repair cracks etc.). Always ask to see pictures of the reverse side of the wheels (especially for any wheels advertised as genuine VW OEM alloys) for details such as size, spec and manufacturer’s name, part number, safety testing certification marks (e.g. TUV, JWL, ABE) should be stamped into the reverse side of the spokes. Safety certification marks are an indication that the alloys have gone through - and passed - a strict safety testing process.

• a set of alloys that are clean (front and back - not just the face of the wheels) and well prepared for sale are an indication - but not a guarantee - that they’ve been well cared for by the seller.

2fast4ya wrote: Mon Apr 18, 2022 11:40 pm She looks well clean Nice, i think 17” will look nice ,
I edited my last messege with tyre size which mine has etc , should give you an idea where to start .
If you put the 17” on you will need to get the tracking done .

amer6R wrote: Tue Apr 19, 2022 6:59 am sure, you can fit 18 wheels if you wish to
17"x8 ET 35 will fit nice 5x100 CB 57.1
Original tire size is 215/40/17

amer6R wrote: Tue Apr 19, 2022 3:08 pm Buy forged wheels if you can.

SRGTD wrote: Tue Apr 19, 2022 9:16 am The Polo GTI and Blue GT models have 17” alloys as standard, so provided you don’t go for anything that’s too wide or has too aggressive an offset, you should be fine. The important thing is that they have a PCD of 5x100, otherwise they won’t physically bolt onto the car’s hub assemblies. VW OEM 17” alloys fitted to the 6r / 6c Polo GTI and Blue GT are either 7Jx17” ET46 or 7.5Jx17” ET44.

Factors to consider;

I’d avoid cheap Chinese imported alloys as the quality of construction and finish can be questionable. They’ve been mentions on various forums over the years of cheap imported alloys having poor structural integrity, so they may be more prone to buckling and cracking if they hit a pothole, kerb or raised drain cover than alloys from a reputable manufacturer such as BBS, Ronal, Borbet etc.

I’d personally avoid anything that’s diamond cut (often also described as ‘machined’ or ‘polished’) as the finish isn’t very durable - especially if the wheels are going on a daily driver that’s used all year round. Diamond cut alloys are prone to white worm corrosion, especially when they’re subjected to winter road conditions. Also, be aware that diamond cut alloys can usually only be refurbished a maximum of two times as the refurbishment process involves re-cutting the face of the wheel on a lathe, removing a layer of metal, so reducing the thickness of the wheel. More than two refurbishments, and the structural integrity of the wheel can be compromised.

If buying used alloys;

• always ask the seller if they’ve been refurbished to remove cosmetic imperfections, kerbing/parking damage, or had any structural repairs (e.g. to remove buckling, welding to repair cracks etc.). Always ask to see pictures of the reverse side of the wheels (especially for any wheels advertised as genuine VW OEM alloys) for details such as size, spec and manufacturer’s name, part number, safety testing certification marks (e.g. TUV, JWL, ABE) should be stamped into the reverse side of the spokes. Safety certification marks are an indication that the alloys have gone through - and passed - a strict safety testing process.

• a set of alloys that are clean (front and back - not just the face of the wheels) and well prepared for sale are an indication - but not a guarantee - that they’ve been well cared for by the seller.

Most aftermarket alloy wheels used different profile bolts to the original VW wheels (VW use radius bolts, most - but not all - aftermarket alloys use tapered bolts). It’s really important that the correct bolts for the wheels are used to ensure they correctly fit the mating surface in the bolt holes of the wheels. If buying new wheels from a reputable alloy wheel retailer, they should supply a fitting kit that includes new bolts if they’re required. The fitting kit should also include spigot rings of the appropriate size for your car if they’re needed - e.g. if the centre bore of the new wheels is larger than the VW OEM centre bore size of 57.1, the spigot rings fit inside the the centre bore hole of the wheels to reduce its size to 57.1. Keep the bolts from one of your existing alloys in your car in case you ever need to fit your spare wheel.

Don’t forget to budget for tyres. For a set of 17” alloys that are 7J or 7.5J, the standard size tyres that VW fit are 215/40 R17. This size of tyre should maintain that the same overall rolling radius as your existing wheel / tyre set up so you don’t get speedo reading errors. I’d always recommend using one of the wheel tyre calculators on various alloy wheel retailer websites - see below.

Be aware that 215/40 R17 isn’t a particularly common sized tyre so they tend to be quite expensive. Also 17” alloys with 40 profile tyre will give quite a firm ride compared to your current wheel / tyre set up, so be prepared for a less compliant ride quality.

Use one of the wheel / tyre calculators to ensure you won’t have any clearance or rubbing issues. I use the one on www.willtheyfit.com. If you input the required details of your existing and new wheel / tyre set up, it’ll calculate the critical numbers for you - e.g. tuck, poke, if you’ll experience and speedo reading errors etc.

Lastly, fitting different alloys is a modification for insurance purposes so be sure to inform your insurer. Not telling them could invalidate your insurance cover. Some insurance companies may charge you extra premium for fitting new wheels, so it might be worth checking before buying new wheels what additional premium - if any - your insurance company would want.

amer6R wrote: Tue Apr 19, 2022 5:35 pm Forged wheels are more stronger, lighter, less chance to bend them, crack them etc.

I would lean more towards: Ronal, Borbet, Oz, BBS...

I'd rather buy some OEM wheels they are much stronger than those wheels.