Car pulls hard to right, alligment is perfect

[msas21]

Hello everyone,

I have big issue with car pulling to right, wheel alignment is perfect, have check in 3 different good alignment shops/mechanics.
Car is Polo 6R 3xR-line, 1.6TDI 77kW, 2012 year. I have 170.000km on clock.
Short story what happened: Before any alignment adjustments when I bought a car it was good, little pulling to left side but nothing major, steering wheel was straight.
Reason I went to alignment for first time is reason it was little pulling to left as I said just a little bit.
After first alignment adjustments things were much worse, now car is pulling to right side a lot but no clear reason for that, alignment parameters are all green (checked 3 times in 3 different shops).
If you want to go straight now you need to hold steering wheel slightly to left side, if you let it go, it center it self's but pulling hard to right.
Tyres are not worm out, on all 4 pressure is same, brakes are not stuck, wheels are turning on car jacks easily.
One thing that I notice when I jack front end of car, when turning steering wheel full to left it stays in one angle, and steering full to right, another angle, not sure is it normal?
What can be faulty in my case, steering rack maybe? Hope someone helps!

Greetings from Croatia to you all!

[iichel]

yes looks like your steering wheel is off-center by one tooth.

what are your alignment values?

[2226]

Bushings, tie-rod and steering rack mounts all in good shape?

Can you have brake force test done at a testing station? Maybe one brake doing more work.

Not an expert, just thinking out loud.

[msas21]

yes looks like your steering wheel is off-center by one tooth.

what are your alignment values?

What should I do next?, alignment values are all "green" but I dont have paper to take photo of it.

[RUM4MO]

You could try measuring the lengths of exposed threads on the steering rods - after the track rod end lock nuts to see if they are different and so causing that steering wheel slight offset.

Other things are worn lower control arm bushes and rubber mounts - but I would expect any proper workshop to check that everything is okay before making adjustments.

You really do need to be given a print out of Caster, Camber and Toeing to make sure that they all have done more than just correct the front wheel toeing.

[2226]

Probably not related, but when I purchased my vehicle it always had a pull to one side. Caster and camber were in spec, but slightly indicated a lean. Turns out the subframe had been shifted over to one side. Alignment tech undid subframe bolt and it sprang back into place. This correctly the slight pull ... and highlighted numerous other suspension issues that had previously been hidden under all that tension.

[RUM4MO]

Moving the subframe is the only way, as long as the car still has standard parts fitted, that caster and camber can be altered - or equalised. If a car passes a proper 4 wheel alignment bench check, then the subframe is in the correct position - for that car. If it fails the manufacturer's alignment specs, then other than any actual chassis/frame damage, bent lower arms and/or bent struts and/or bent steering gear and/or incorrect coil springs, damaged rear beam and/or hubs - then moving the subframe around should bring it back into spec, and so drive correctly.

One other unlikely thing, my wife's August 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI, ended up "losing" the head of one of the subframe fixing bolts - and it still drove okay. Its problem might have been me submitting it for warranty work concerning the front suspension/powertrain mounting, ie noises, when it was just 24 months old, so maybe, just maybe, that VW workshop attacked the subframe fixing bolts, as in nipping them up beyond their acceptable torque value, and then as road spray does get into the area above the front 2 subframe fixing bolts and pools in the area above them, and in winter in Europe that means lots of rock salt will get in there, and so corrosion really gets going, ending up "necking" that bolt so that its effective diameter had dropped so much that the previously applied torque setting was too much for it and that bolt failed at the point of most corrosion - but still stayed attached to the subframe probably due to it being "glued" to the subframe by the paint that would have been new when that car was assembled - and then some days/weeks/months after that initial failure, it dropped off onto my garage floor, which was convenient otherwise it would have been some time before I had noticed that it had gone! That bolt head appeared on my garage floor when that car was 6.5 or 7.5 years old!

Edit:- always remember that any issues with the rear "axle" will be reflected on how the car drives even if, taken by itself, the front end is 100% okay.

[Brian422]

Is there any reason why Steering wheel appears 180 Degrees from 'normal' straight ahead position?

Possible solution @ 4 minutes 30 seconds: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nn_HOW9zeys

Hope this helps.

[RUM4MO]

Is there any reason why Steering wheel appears 180 Degrees from 'normal' straight ahead position?

Possible solution @ 4 minutes 30 seconds: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nn_HOW9zeys

Hope this helps.

Something to consider, there is always a mechanical connection between the steering wheel and the steering rods, for any mismatch between steering wheel "position" and road wheels "position", there has to be a physical reason, and steering (wheel) angle sensor output will not provide a physical reason - okay the power assistance might try to fight the driver, but with the steering wheel in the straight ahead position, the steering arms would continue to point the road wheels in the straight ahead direction - unless there was something mechanically bent/damaged or not correctly aligned.