strange noise
strange noise
I'm noticing a strange noise coming from the front of the car, it's been lowered on h&r coilovers and is running quite low the tyres are in the arches but do not catch even when 3 people are sat in the back, no rattles from anywhere in the car, this noise like a thud comes when i go over certain bumps even at low speeds when crawling over speed bumps from the front like a metal thud (if there is a term for it.
, doesn't sound like its coming from the suspension. Anyone have an idea what it might be, i'm thinking about getting it up on a ramp to see what it is but will have to wait as new wheels are coming tomorrow, Polo2k please help 
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polo2k
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ok then how low are you?
when i am in 'slammed' mode i wear out bottom bushes (rear twends to do it more on the right) check for the anti roll bar touching stuff, look at the rear of the sump and theres a oplastic conduit with all the alternatier wireing in it, mine kept hitting the rear of the sump and knocked the conduit loose so check if all the wireing and conduit are in tact. look for polished areas on the drive shafts
then check for any play in the wheel i will explain each part that can wear and how to test it firstly you will need to raise and support the front of the car. theese tests are the same for each side
tests with the wheel still attached
grab the wheel at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock and try and pull the top out and push the bottom in at the same time if there is play in this direction then it could be the ball joint, wheel bearing or strut bearing
grab the wheel at 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock and try and turn the wheel as if the steering was being used and then in the other direction, play with this test may indicate a bad wheel bearing or track rod end
then place one hand under the wheel and try and lift it then release it and try again, if you see play here then this may be the strut bearing
to test the bottom arm rubbers locate them (2 per arm) insert a screw driver (flat) and lever the rubber, it should be firm and not have much movement
ball jointthis is attached to the bottom arm with 3 13mm bolts and connects the bottom arm to the wheel bearing housing allowing atriculation
track rod arm this is screwed onto the end of the steering rack and connects the steering rack to the wheel bearing housing
wheel bearingthis is fitter into the wheel bearing housing (hence the name duh
) and the drive shaft passes through the centre of it it allows the drive shaft to turn freely.
strut bearing this is the part you can see at the top of the suspension when you open the bonnet the shock shaft passes through it and allows the shoch to turn and also incorperates the top spring plate so that the spring doesnt try to unwind as you turn lock to lock (if this goes you may also hear a creaking sound if stationary and the steering wheel is turned)
bottom arm rubbers theese allow the bottom arm to move in a controlled manner
i think ive covererd most of it but also remember to check the wheel arch lining for signs of rubbing, not forgetting the one that covers the bottom pully on the right hand side
if you have any more questions or any other things that might help diagnose loke if it happens at a certain temp etc and your milage ( total and lowered)
when i am in 'slammed' mode i wear out bottom bushes (rear twends to do it more on the right) check for the anti roll bar touching stuff, look at the rear of the sump and theres a oplastic conduit with all the alternatier wireing in it, mine kept hitting the rear of the sump and knocked the conduit loose so check if all the wireing and conduit are in tact. look for polished areas on the drive shafts
then check for any play in the wheel i will explain each part that can wear and how to test it firstly you will need to raise and support the front of the car. theese tests are the same for each side
tests with the wheel still attached
grab the wheel at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock and try and pull the top out and push the bottom in at the same time if there is play in this direction then it could be the ball joint, wheel bearing or strut bearing
grab the wheel at 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock and try and turn the wheel as if the steering was being used and then in the other direction, play with this test may indicate a bad wheel bearing or track rod end
then place one hand under the wheel and try and lift it then release it and try again, if you see play here then this may be the strut bearing
to test the bottom arm rubbers locate them (2 per arm) insert a screw driver (flat) and lever the rubber, it should be firm and not have much movement
ball jointthis is attached to the bottom arm with 3 13mm bolts and connects the bottom arm to the wheel bearing housing allowing atriculation
track rod arm this is screwed onto the end of the steering rack and connects the steering rack to the wheel bearing housing
wheel bearingthis is fitter into the wheel bearing housing (hence the name duh
strut bearing this is the part you can see at the top of the suspension when you open the bonnet the shock shaft passes through it and allows the shoch to turn and also incorperates the top spring plate so that the spring doesnt try to unwind as you turn lock to lock (if this goes you may also hear a creaking sound if stationary and the steering wheel is turned)
bottom arm rubbers theese allow the bottom arm to move in a controlled manner
i think ive covererd most of it but also remember to check the wheel arch lining for signs of rubbing, not forgetting the one that covers the bottom pully on the right hand side
if you have any more questions or any other things that might help diagnose loke if it happens at a certain temp etc and your milage ( total and lowered)
Wow polo2k thats really impressive, ok it's low the arches are right on the tyres can not get a finger in between the arches, i got my 17's on yesterday (pictures to follow soon) and the ride is not as bouncy as it was before with the standard 15 inch rims (it was really bouncy) now it's smoother, the noise is less so now, but again over a certain bumb it's still coming on the left side, the right side tyre slightly rubs against the plastic where the bumper joins the front wing nothing major there.
the noise to decribe it is like a clang type will get it checked out shortly.
- Josh_PoloGTi
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- Josh_PoloGTi
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Hi Harry
I'll be at work then...
JBS are really good, I go there for almost everything and I know them personally too.
That's how I knew you were going down there
I went out to the coast with my brother yesterday and I was getting some wierd noises from my suspension too...
Maybe it was because he was in the car too, as I've not noticed it before!
I'll be at work then...
JBS are really good, I go there for almost everything and I know them personally too.
That's how I knew you were going down there
I went out to the coast with my brother yesterday and I was getting some wierd noises from my suspension too...
is it coming from any paticular side ? mines coming from the left side, i was down there yesterday (took the type r for a blast nice stretch of tarmac up the hill to chestefield
) as i was in derby thought i'd do a detour and see where they were based as didn't want to get lost next week when i go in spoke to one of the lads and he said james is really good and should know straightaway what is wrong let see.. can i forward you the updated pictures of my car ( i know its a copout and i should put it in the help section sorry polo 2k)...to upload?
I just got the car sorted this morning, the lads at JBS were very helpful, the noise was the antiroll bar on the left touching the bottom of the inside wing as the car was really low so it's been raised by 10mm noise has stopped, ride has improved also, they even adjusted the clutch cable definately recommend them for any work in the future thanks Josh 
- Josh_PoloGTi
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polo2k
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i find this a little strange as the antirioll bars/subframe/chassis legs are the same for left and right hand driive and i have a 2000 polo 1.4 which usually rides at about -11cm and the only problems i get are the drive shaft hitting the chassis leg and back of the sump. never any anti roll bar problems
