BEST OIL?
-
Tahrey1043
- Bling Bling Diamond Member
- Posts: 5184
- Joined: Thu Sep 18, 2003 1:15 am
- Location: Birmingham! Enjoys: The pseudo-G-Smiles provided by a 1.6 Megane Sport valver...
- Contact:
- bstardchild
- Moderator
- Posts: 3057
- Joined: Sun Mar 28, 2004 9:53 pm
- Location: Norfolk - "Its just Black & Dirty"
Sorry Tahrey I never saw this post.....Tahrey1043 wrote:what's trade club?
the first rule of trade club is, you do not talk about trade club?
Right Trade club is a Vauxhall scheme they set up to allow them to compete supplying the trade and stop everyone from buying aftermarket parts.
I do a lot of work on vauxhalls so I thought why can't I register myself as a independant car repair outfit...... I'm not but they don't know that!!!
So I got the forms filled em in and sent off for membership of the trade club - it cost nothing to join.....
They accepted - lord knows what checks they do but bottom line is I get everything at trade club rates
eg
Vauxhall Semi synth 10-40W at £6.60 for 5L instead of retail £14.25
Oil Filters £1.02 instead of £3.86
Antifreeze 6.00 for 5L instead of £9.00
Brake fluid DOT 4 £9.40 instead of £17.55
Spark Plugs £2.04 instead of £3.53
Air Filter £8.00 instead of £20.25
Fuel Filter £6.10 instead of £17.95
Have K&N Filter so don't buy the air filters
Other parts are in the scheme and if it's not it doesn't matter because as long as I buy some service parts I need to produce my card and then they automatically give me trade on any bits not covered cos they see the card!!!!
Happy bunny except the LC parts aren't in the scheme and they are bloody daft prices even with a sizable trade discount......
Anyone want any oil filters? - I buy one everytime I buy a part for the LC!!!
PS if you are going to the polo show I have a few cans of 10-40W semi synth I could sell you for same rate!!
-
hardhitter
- Moderator
- Posts: 1249
- Joined: Mon Oct 14, 2002 10:35 pm
- Location: Derbyshire 3F Guru
- Contact:
those pics are rather desturbing. im assuming that the sparkly bits in the oil in that head is metal shavings. ( looks like the s**t that come off my alloys when i was polshing them up.)
so if the oil was replaced every 10k that must mean the oil doesnt lube aswell after 6-7k or summat like that i know oil breaks down but i never understood to what extent it stopped lubing the parts up. mabe i should get on the case for an oil change in another 2k miles. ( had one at 34000 now on 35500.)
so if the oil was replaced every 10k that must mean the oil doesnt lube aswell after 6-7k or summat like that i know oil breaks down but i never understood to what extent it stopped lubing the parts up. mabe i should get on the case for an oil change in another 2k miles. ( had one at 34000 now on 35500.)
- bstardchild
- Moderator
- Posts: 3057
- Joined: Sun Mar 28, 2004 9:53 pm
- Location: Norfolk - "Its just Black & Dirty"
No just the light reflection from the flash on the large amounts of carbon depositswarrmr wrote:those pics are rather desturbing. im assuming that the sparkly bits in the oil in that head is metal shavings. ( looks like the **** that come off my alloys when i was polshing them up.)
Oil breaks down over time - the longer you leave it in the more it degrades - the more it degrades the less it can keep the moving parts apart so the more wear resultswarrmr wrote:so if the oil was replaced every 10k that must mean the oil doesnt lube aswell after 6-7k or summat like that i know oil breaks down but i never understood to what extent it stopped lubing the parts up. mabe i should get on the case for an oil change in another 2k miles. ( had one at 34000 now on 35500.)
5K max betwen changes is my recomendation
-
hardhitter
- Moderator
- Posts: 1249
- Joined: Mon Oct 14, 2002 10:35 pm
- Location: Derbyshire 3F Guru
- Contact:
- bstardchild
- Moderator
- Posts: 3057
- Joined: Sun Mar 28, 2004 9:53 pm
- Location: Norfolk - "Its just Black & Dirty"
DOT 4 any makedubpolo wrote:Mine runs on semi, and that’s what it tells you in the book.
I like semi - main reason being it's easy to switch either way - mineral to fully synth is seriously bad news
Ian, bit of change to the subject but what brake fluid would you recommend?
- fer c's sake don't use fully synthetic brake fluid (scary stuff that is)
- marketing plus - it won't damage your paint work and doesn't absorb water so boiling point is a constant over the lifetime of the fluid
negative point - you may notice an increase in pedal travel WTF!
- Ian's points - Don't spill it (non synthetic brake fluid) and your paint works fine - change it every year and water absorption is minimal
True situation - OMG pedals hit the floor!!! I put it in the LC and I can tell you stopping two tonnes of car at 180 mph and having the pedal on the deck is not nice or clever - changed it straight back to normal DOT 4 and instantly got the brakes exactly how I want them.
PS I use an easi bleed so no there wasn't any air in the system
- bstardchild
- Moderator
- Posts: 3057
- Joined: Sun Mar 28, 2004 9:53 pm
- Location: Norfolk - "Its just Black & Dirty"