LOWERING SPRING, PRICE & COMFORT
- bstardchild
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So you know how to tell progressive springs from non progressive - just so I am sureCymruPolo wrote:bstardchild wrote:Try to get progressive lowering springs if you can if you go for something other than a top quality brand/manufacturer - your back will thank you when you are old and greysay 28
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But like you said, it's better to ask now before buying
- bstardchild
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But if he doesn't and goes to halfrauds what does he need to look for on a spring to indicate that they are progressive?polosilver wrote:The Eibach ones i suggested are progressive and i think hes getting them. They also have bump stops to stop your wheels hittin the top of the arch if you have a full car
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david burton
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the springs have bump stops? i thought the bump stops were part of the shock absorber which he isn't replacing.
the progressive ones will increase their load rate with increased compression. the tighter wound section of the spring is the softer rate, and this compresses first - then once that section is locked out, the less tightly wound section has more effect - and this is stiffer. the overall effect is a little more body roll (this _obviously_ depends on what spring you are comparing it to) at the neutral point (probably stiffer than OEM setup tho), but it stiffens up once the spring has more load in it - when it starts to corner hard or more people are in it - thus reducing the body roll once this happens. You can often find that the right progressive spring on a lowered car is LESS likely to rub than the OEM spring because the rate is so much stiffer once it is heavily loaded. That was the case in my old MK2 golf.
I've had PI springs before and was very impressed with them. TBH shock absorber choice will vary a lot more than spring choice - if you choose progressive springs there isn't a world of difference between them all (there is a difference tho!), but there is with shock absorbers. You have the better 6N shock absorbers (gas charged ones) and they cope with lowering quite well.
You will get a car that is pretty harsh (on the 6N anyway) if you lower 50mm, but it will corner well. Once you save up you can upgrade the shocks to give it far more confidence over bumpy roads, but don't worry about that to begin with.
HTH
the progressive ones will increase their load rate with increased compression. the tighter wound section of the spring is the softer rate, and this compresses first - then once that section is locked out, the less tightly wound section has more effect - and this is stiffer. the overall effect is a little more body roll (this _obviously_ depends on what spring you are comparing it to) at the neutral point (probably stiffer than OEM setup tho), but it stiffens up once the spring has more load in it - when it starts to corner hard or more people are in it - thus reducing the body roll once this happens. You can often find that the right progressive spring on a lowered car is LESS likely to rub than the OEM spring because the rate is so much stiffer once it is heavily loaded. That was the case in my old MK2 golf.
I've had PI springs before and was very impressed with them. TBH shock absorber choice will vary a lot more than spring choice - if you choose progressive springs there isn't a world of difference between them all (there is a difference tho!), but there is with shock absorbers. You have the better 6N shock absorbers (gas charged ones) and they cope with lowering quite well.
You will get a car that is pretty harsh (on the 6N anyway) if you lower 50mm, but it will corner well. Once you save up you can upgrade the shocks to give it far more confidence over bumpy roads, but don't worry about that to begin with.
HTH
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spookpoodle
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david burton
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www.larkspeed.com do them (or .co.uk i forget) for 135
not sure what the best price is that you've found - this seems pricey
not sure what the best price is that you've found - this seems pricey
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david burton
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