Hi mate
Did you buy this car off Wayne in bristol by any chance?
The car has had a full engine rebuild by Ashley motorsport and it has had a full blend not long ago. It has also been lowered 40mm and one of the rear shocks is f****d. Good luck with repairing it. The car also has a sns chip, g60 greens and toothed belts.
white smoke billowing out exhust
yyayy
yay i did have u got any other history about the car?
yer im aware about the suspension though the whole lot is getting changed in 3 weeks! (KONI's)
yep i was revving the car hard to keep up with my m8s mustang lol and i had it serviced about 56 hours before it blew as well!
psd r looknig over it this week n hopefully get it back this week with a little tweek here n there (rocking at low rpm, petrol smell so on)
yer im aware about the suspension though the whole lot is getting changed in 3 weeks! (KONI's)
yep i was revving the car hard to keep up with my m8s mustang lol and i had it serviced about 56 hours before it blew as well!
psd r looknig over it this week n hopefully get it back this week with a little tweek here n there (rocking at low rpm, petrol smell so on)
yip
yip it is a nice car i restored the paint so its red now lol
the exhust was so low it fell off so i got it put higher n it still hits stuff wen i got a full load lol cant wait to get car back so much is waiting to happen
the exhust was so low it fell off so i got it put higher n it still hits stuff wen i got a full load lol cant wait to get car back so much is waiting to happen
i think you need to start reading some of the posts and advice on the various g40 forums that are about.
g40's don't need to be revved hard to go quickly...and i guess nobody mentioned running the charger seals inyep i was revving the car hard to keep up with my m8s mustang lol and i had it serviced about 56 hours before it blew as well!
thats y i joined
thats y i joined cos i no jack all about g40's apart from they need PTFE wen the boost retain pipe is of n they r fast
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quinny
- Bronze Member
- Posts: 104
- Joined: Tue Jan 11, 2005 8:00 pm
- Location: Maidstone Kent. Andy Boakes G40 Engine Specialist
A few tips then.
You shouldn't put too much PTFE grease in the chargers as the seals are self lubing anyway and you may cause the charger to flood slightly. You need enough PTFE in to keep the charger well lubed to aid the self lubricating seals. You should spray the PTFE grease into the charger every 500 to 1000 miles dependant upon use if it is a daily driver. (Obviously 500 miles if used in short bursts daily and or driven hard)
If the car is left to sit for ages like mine then you should lube the charger up slightly before use just incase the oils inside have worn a little thin of oil.
Never hit the rev limiter. The worst case is with toothed belts as the sudden stop and high rev start will really hurt the charger. The V belts may slip so there may be a slightly better chance of survival.
Always use a gasket seal around any part of the charger that you remove, this includes after-market inlet collars.
When attatching a pipe around the after market inelt collar make sure that at least 3 rings are completely over the, you really want as much on the collar without it being scrunched together. Julbilee clip above the first ring. This will create a nice seal and ensure that it can't slip off whilst in use.
Personally I don't think the standard brakes are that bad but that is becuase I am used to the mk1 golf brakes with a mk2 polo master cylinder on a mk2 polo. ATE power discs and green stuff pads ect. are an easy way to upgrade the braking system. Braided hoses work well too. A mk2 Golf master cylinder is also another option I have heard about.
The cup car style polyflex Anti Roll Bar blocks, (big green things) combined with the chromed ARB discs that sit on the outer side of the ARB Blocks are a fantastic way to improve the car's handling for not a lot of money. I honestly prefer these with standard suspension on a G40/GT to my mk2 with Koni shocks and dampers all round and polyflex ARB and TCA bushes. Not as stiff but the cornering feels tighter.
Listen to the company that you are using to perform the work on your car. They know what they have done so they will know what to do about it. In your case PSD, take their advice and use it well. Ask for reliability and do not feel bad about saying you have a strict monthly budget. These companies should understand that.
You shouldn't put too much PTFE grease in the chargers as the seals are self lubing anyway and you may cause the charger to flood slightly. You need enough PTFE in to keep the charger well lubed to aid the self lubricating seals. You should spray the PTFE grease into the charger every 500 to 1000 miles dependant upon use if it is a daily driver. (Obviously 500 miles if used in short bursts daily and or driven hard)
If the car is left to sit for ages like mine then you should lube the charger up slightly before use just incase the oils inside have worn a little thin of oil.
Never hit the rev limiter. The worst case is with toothed belts as the sudden stop and high rev start will really hurt the charger. The V belts may slip so there may be a slightly better chance of survival.
Always use a gasket seal around any part of the charger that you remove, this includes after-market inlet collars.
When attatching a pipe around the after market inelt collar make sure that at least 3 rings are completely over the, you really want as much on the collar without it being scrunched together. Julbilee clip above the first ring. This will create a nice seal and ensure that it can't slip off whilst in use.
Personally I don't think the standard brakes are that bad but that is becuase I am used to the mk1 golf brakes with a mk2 polo master cylinder on a mk2 polo. ATE power discs and green stuff pads ect. are an easy way to upgrade the braking system. Braided hoses work well too. A mk2 Golf master cylinder is also another option I have heard about.
The cup car style polyflex Anti Roll Bar blocks, (big green things) combined with the chromed ARB discs that sit on the outer side of the ARB Blocks are a fantastic way to improve the car's handling for not a lot of money. I honestly prefer these with standard suspension on a G40/GT to my mk2 with Koni shocks and dampers all round and polyflex ARB and TCA bushes. Not as stiff but the cornering feels tighter.
Listen to the company that you are using to perform the work on your car. They know what they have done so they will know what to do about it. In your case PSD, take their advice and use it well. Ask for reliability and do not feel bad about saying you have a strict monthly budget. These companies should understand that.
thanks
thanks for the advice, ill definetly take ur advice on the suspension but a few q's in that department
i got about 500 -700 pounds to spend on suspension n i was wondering how many components there are to get
polyurathane bushes?
the susupension arm?
the suspension spring?
the car already has front n rear lower strut brace
i got about 500 -700 pounds to spend on suspension n i was wondering how many components there are to get
polyurathane bushes?
the susupension arm?
the suspension spring?
the car already has front n rear lower strut brace
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quinny
- Bronze Member
- Posts: 104
- Joined: Tue Jan 11, 2005 8:00 pm
- Location: Maidstone Kent. Andy Boakes G40 Engine Specialist
PSD sell some good suspension and again will be able to advise you on this far better than I can.
You should be able to find everything you need here on the pitsop forum
http://www.pitstopdevelopments.com/foru ... 52f7292070
Otherwise the G-max kit is suposedly good, the FK kits annd KW are also.
You should be able to find everything you need here on the pitsop forum
http://www.pitstopdevelopments.com/foru ... 52f7292070
Otherwise the G-max kit is suposedly good, the FK kits annd KW are also.
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polog40racer
- Bronze Member
- Posts: 109
- Joined: Sun May 09, 2004 9:11 pm
- Location: Lincolnshire
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quinny
- Bronze Member
- Posts: 104
- Joined: Tue Jan 11, 2005 8:00 pm
- Location: Maidstone Kent. Andy Boakes G40 Engine Specialist
Actually, thats very true. Race Power are a provider of that suspension, I think he sells it cheaper than most places too.
I'm not trying to not promote RacePower, it's just that he has already started to use PSD, and like I said with Andy it is more to avoid the conflict of company ideas rather than not promoting one or the other.
However, if you want to check out the prices, go to www.racepowermotorsport.com and click contacts. Give them a ring and request Andy and KW suspension for a G40.
Hey Paul, lucky for Andy and myself, the exact amount for the suspension that I want will land in my lap on Sunday, and it isn't a loan.
Should hopefully be able to pay for either the charger and pay most of the suspension OR pickup the suspension and pay 75% of the charger OR pick up the intercooler and suspension. Then the next week I will be able to pay for the rest of it.
I'm not trying to not promote RacePower, it's just that he has already started to use PSD, and like I said with Andy it is more to avoid the conflict of company ideas rather than not promoting one or the other.
However, if you want to check out the prices, go to www.racepowermotorsport.com and click contacts. Give them a ring and request Andy and KW suspension for a G40.
Hey Paul, lucky for Andy and myself, the exact amount for the suspension that I want will land in my lap on Sunday, and it isn't a loan.
Should hopefully be able to pay for either the charger and pay most of the suspension OR pickup the suspension and pay 75% of the charger OR pick up the intercooler and suspension. Then the next week I will be able to pay for the rest of it.
Re: nice
i would be concentrating on getting the car running right before spending on coilovers mateyck6uk wrote:ok m8 im on the site now n writing an email out
coil overs come to pappaaaaaaaa