hows hard is it to replace the drivers side steering boot as mine has a huge split in the side of it. and how much damage will i do by driving 40 miles with a split boot ( i know its not reccomended but i cant afford to buy a new boot i know there only £6.50 from GSF i just about have money for food till friday ( payday) )
so my questions are
how hard are they to fit is it just a matter of undoing the ball joint taking track rod end off slipping on new boot and re assembling.
what grease if any goes inside them?
also theres a clunking noise from that side when i go over speed bumps at low speeds will that just be a loose or worn ball joint how do i check them?
please help
mk4 14. L 8v
steering boot replacement.
Not quite as straight forward as you suggest!
I assume you will be buying a 'stretchy' type CV boot as opposed to an original replacement?
These are supplied with the inboard and outboard tie strips PLUS a sachet of grease. BUT YOU MUST buy a 'cone'. Without one the job is an absolut nightmare!!
See the attched link - I know its's for a SAAB but the principle is the same.
http://www.saabcentral.com/~munki/techn ... h_type.htm
A clunk could be a worn ball joint - A long lever can be used to check the play. However it could be a split bush on the lower Wishbone assembly. There was a thread about this a few days ago.(Title:- Please help ..Unknown knocking sound)
If your ball joint is OK I'd just unbolt it rather than split it from the hub assembly.
Good luck
I assume you will be buying a 'stretchy' type CV boot as opposed to an original replacement?
These are supplied with the inboard and outboard tie strips PLUS a sachet of grease. BUT YOU MUST buy a 'cone'. Without one the job is an absolut nightmare!!
See the attched link - I know its's for a SAAB but the principle is the same.
http://www.saabcentral.com/~munki/techn ... h_type.htm
A clunk could be a worn ball joint - A long lever can be used to check the play. However it could be a split bush on the lower Wishbone assembly. There was a thread about this a few days ago.(Title:- Please help ..Unknown knocking sound)
If your ball joint is OK I'd just unbolt it rather than split it from the hub assembly.
Good luck
its not the CV boot thats gone its the steering boot if that. the ones on the side of the steering rack that covers the pistons and part of the track rod.
as for taking the ball joint off to put the new boot on i can just unbolt it i dont need a splitter it will just unbolt then i can undo teh track rod end and slide the new boot on.
oh and i know how much of a PITA the Cv boots are to do without a cone when i replaced my joint a 2000miles ago i was picking metal splinters out of my hand for days ( the joint disintergrated i pulled the boot off to look at it and the barings rolled out lol)
the ones im replacing are like the ones in the piccy below
as for taking the ball joint off to put the new boot on i can just unbolt it i dont need a splitter it will just unbolt then i can undo teh track rod end and slide the new boot on.
oh and i know how much of a PITA the Cv boots are to do without a cone when i replaced my joint a 2000miles ago i was picking metal splinters out of my hand for days ( the joint disintergrated i pulled the boot off to look at it and the barings rolled out lol)
the ones im replacing are like the ones in the piccy below
My mistake! I'll read a post more carefully in future!!
What you suggest seems completely sensible. I would think that normal LM grease would do the trick. It won't get hot enough in the steering rack to require Lithium Based grease??
(But if it's Black - ??? use MS3)
Only a small amount would be required anyway as the main purpose of the boot is to keep the rack clean as opposed to keep lubricant in!
What you suggest seems completely sensible. I would think that normal LM grease would do the trick. It won't get hot enough in the steering rack to require Lithium Based grease??
(But if it's Black - ??? use MS3)
Only a small amount would be required anyway as the main purpose of the boot is to keep the rack clean as opposed to keep lubricant in!
am i being stupid but whats MS3 is that just high templow friction graphite grease. (like CV grease) cos what evers in the boot at the moment feels more kinda oily more like oil than grease oh well ill wait till saturday or when ever i can do it and haev a look there. mabe matt can shed some light on it ( works for landrover ( surely theres similar principals.)
well its easy till you get to put it back together.
the boots all installed an dlooking good. i go to put the track rod end back on and touque the nut up and what happenes i cant lock the shaft teh nut goes onto in teh ball joint. i have to replace it. so nows the awiting game. i have to wait till 3.15 for the rod end to turn up at my local motorfactors. then its a race against time as i mum has reminded me (after its in peices) i have to take her to hospital so im f****d.
the boots all installed an dlooking good. i go to put the track rod end back on and touque the nut up and what happenes i cant lock the shaft teh nut goes onto in teh ball joint. i have to replace it. so nows the awiting game. i have to wait till 3.15 for the rod end to turn up at my local motorfactors. then its a race against time as i mum has reminded me (after its in peices) i have to take her to hospital so im f****d.
all fixed.
boot and balljoint replaced in 1 hour after i got the ball joint it was all go from there. i broke my nut splitter trying to break the nut off so in the end i reverted to cutting the balljoint off with a hacksaw and useing the seperator to push it through.
took her for a test drive handles like she used to still knocks slightly when you rag it over bumps so its gotta be aworn brush somewhere. im off now bye.,
boot and balljoint replaced in 1 hour after i got the ball joint it was all go from there. i broke my nut splitter trying to break the nut off so in the end i reverted to cutting the balljoint off with a hacksaw and useing the seperator to push it through.
took her for a test drive handles like she used to still knocks slightly when you rag it over bumps so its gotta be aworn brush somewhere. im off now bye.,