Some questions

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knaps
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Some questions

Post by knaps »

Firstly I was wondering weather a sub should have more or less RMS power then the amp? Hope this makes sense. Also I was windering weather I can use the remote on from my headunit for my LCD and amp or will this overload the headunit causing bad bad problems?

Thanks
tupac2makaveli71
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Post by tupac2makaveli71 »

yeh you can use the same remote, it just supplies a very very small amount of current and its going out not coming in, just snip the remote and make a 'y' out of it so there is two outputs coming from it, and also, the rms does not REALLY matter, obviously it plays a significant part on choosing your amp, it should be the same as the sub at the most, but its the max that matters, your amps max should be a bit smaller then the subs rms to be on the safe side otherwise you could blow your sub! hope that helps mate
bass mekanik
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Post by bass mekanik »

tupac2makaveli71 wrote:yeh you can use the same remote, it just supplies a very very small amount of current and its going out not coming in, just snip the remote and make a 'y' out of it so there is two outputs coming from it, and also, the rms does not REALLY matter, obviously it plays a significant part on choosing your amp, it should be the same as the sub at the most, but its the max that matters, your amps max should be a bit smaller then the subs rms to be on the safe side otherwise you could blow your sub! hope that helps mate
first part- nearly right, second part, totally wrong.

A single remote lead can be used to turn on multiple devices in a given install only if the remote inputs on the devices you want to turn of will work off a smaller and smaller amoutn of current with the increase in kit that you switch on.

for example. If you want to turn on say two devices and the remote out put is 5amps, so long as the two devices will turn on when the current is SHARED (i.e. onlty 2.5amps each) then its ok, but when you get to turning on 4/5/6 devices off a single remote out often you need a relay due to the weakened current not being enough to switch on all devices in the circuit.


Secondly- Max power figures are completely irrelevant. RMS ratings are the only true way to measure wattage and even that is sketchy at best due to manufacturers rating product using different voltage inputs and different THD figures as well- hardly a fair comparison.

Finally the your amp should have a slightly HIGHER rating than the subwoofer. reason for this is headroom. an amplifier which has a lower rating with the sub will have a higher chance of blowing the sub with a clipped signal (flatlining the waveform) due to over driving it than an amp with higher power output which will provide a clean unclipped signal.
knaps
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Post by knaps »

thanks for your reply, just wanted to make sure I got my infomation right before going ahead with anything. Planning on doing a incar PC to replay the PS2, got problems with my LCD screen each time the ingition is turned off the clock resets its self but I have the remote power coming from the same remote power as the headunit which works perfectly....
knaps
Getting There!
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Joined: Tue Dec 14, 2004 10:14 am
Location: Australia

Post by knaps »

hey thanks for your reply, what sort of relay do I need and where does it get wired in? Thanks and sorry for being so ignorant. :)
bass mekanik
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Post by bass mekanik »

knaps wrote:hey thanks for your reply, what sort of relay do I need and where does it get wired in? Thanks and sorry for being so ignorant. :)
depends- how many devices are you going to switch on? which ones? model numbers?
knaps
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Location: Australia

Post by knaps »

already running my lcd off the headunit remote power and am planning to run a 2 chan amp of around 300w RMS off the same power for a sub. Don't know what yet because I havent purchased anything.
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