JBL gto - 4000 amplifier problems
JBL gto - 4000 amplifier problems
Hi guys, i have just installed my new sound system, but i have quite a few questions to ask from you (sorry). I have a JBL gto 4000 amp, jbl gt4-12 sub, Infinity Kappa 6"x9" and a blaupunkt toronto head unit. I passed all the cables through the car and the whole system works well. How ever, the amp works but there a some lights that don't turn on. The power one does, but there are others that don't. They are in a circular shape on the right side and have 3db and stuff written. All the wiring seems correct to me can anyone help? Also how do i setup the gain and x-croos (it is in hz i think) Can anyone tell me how to setup the head unif for the frequencies. Sub low eq 32-50 hz, low eq 63-250hz, mid eq 315-1250hz mid/high eq 1,600 - 6,300 and high eq 8-000 - 12,500hz. Thanks for all the help and sorry for the big message.
Ask away; questions are good.
As a rule-of-thumb, subs play best below 80 - 60 Hz. The lower the frequency, the harder it is to locate the sub, it makes it look as if the sub is not audibly in the back of the car, but somewhere in the front.
Also, the bigger the sub, the lower it should be cut off. So given your choices, I'd suggest trying 63 Hz (or something near that) even though it says 'low' and not 'sub'. If it sounds boomy, try a lower setting.
The rest of the system should cover the rest of the spectrum, so if the sub plays from 60 Hz downwards, aim for 80 Hz upwards for the rest of the system. There's no need to overlap, since the cutoff is a sloped curve, not straight down.
About the circular lights: I can't say without seeing them, perhaps the manual will shed some light on 'em?
As a rule-of-thumb, subs play best below 80 - 60 Hz. The lower the frequency, the harder it is to locate the sub, it makes it look as if the sub is not audibly in the back of the car, but somewhere in the front.
Also, the bigger the sub, the lower it should be cut off. So given your choices, I'd suggest trying 63 Hz (or something near that) even though it says 'low' and not 'sub'. If it sounds boomy, try a lower setting.
The rest of the system should cover the rest of the spectrum, so if the sub plays from 60 Hz downwards, aim for 80 Hz upwards for the rest of the system. There's no need to overlap, since the cutoff is a sloped curve, not straight down.
About the circular lights: I can't say without seeing them, perhaps the manual will shed some light on 'em?
Don't worry about the lights on the top.. I have the next sub down in their range and only find that the lights come on when you turn up the gain or increase the signal coming in by upping the volume on the headunit.
It's just a Decibel meter really
I have a Blaupunkt Daytona so I guess I could assist with the frequency ranges and how to change them but I don't know if it uses the same system as mine
If you are going to the meet this weekend (PLUG) then I'm sure lots of people would be willing to take a look at it
It's just a Decibel meter really
I have a Blaupunkt Daytona so I guess I could assist with the frequency ranges and how to change them but I don't know if it uses the same system as mine
If you are going to the meet this weekend (PLUG) then I'm sure lots of people would be willing to take a look at it
thanks for the help mate. I didn't know there was a meeting, but anyways my car is standard and i have nothing to show off yet. Only has the ICE and its not fully installed yet, its all hooked up and waiting for monday to cut out the back board for the 6x9 and putting the amp of the rear seats and stuff. When its all sorted i might think coming to a meeting, but i'm new to all of this. The main problem is cash cos i am a student so modding a car isn't an really option yet, but i really want alloys.