Rear Disk conversion How to 6n0
Rear Disk conversion How to 6n0
ok this is my first FAQ so you have to bear with me and excuse some of the spelling mistakes. i forgot to take pictures so its just a word guide and it will help people who are looking for infomation on how to do it and a rough idea on cost. ( £450 if you goto awsome GTI lol ) £100 if you do it in your back yard.
parts needed
Stub axles
Carriers
Calipers
Hub
Disk
Handbrake cable
brake pipes
Tools needed
Caliper rewind tool
Selection of spanners 10,11,13,15,16,17,30mm
Loctite blue threadlocker
1 Freezerbag
brake fluid
bleeding kit or a hand
plyers/mole grips
hammer
screwdriver
prybar
string
ok start off by putting your car on stands and releasing the handbrake and removing the wheels.
to reduce fluid loss open the brake fluid resovior and put the freezerbag over it then put the lid back on causing a airtight seal. (use on of the caps from the exe bleed kit as the res on teh mk4 has a float thing that stops you doing this,
remove the gold center cap from the brake drum you will see a splitpin you need to remove under that is a castle nut that slips off and another under that is hand tight. this should allow you to pull the drum off revealing the innards if not use the pry bar to remove the outside fo the drum.
next up is to remove the brake shoes
you will see a selection of springs the spring at the bottom that clips the 2 shoes together needs releasing and there are 2 retaining clips ( goldy things on tops of springs) grab them with a plyers push down on the spring and twist 90degrees and release once you have done that to both sides and removed the spring the shoes should just pull out you can now remove the handbrak cable.
now you will see 4 bolts with a metal ring half covering them i just prised that off and undid the bolts before you remove the last one remove the brake line form the back of the brake drum then undo the last nut and pull the drum backing plate off and thestub axle.
you can now remove the brake line from the car at the joint by the rear beam and connect the caliper line into there and hang the caliper from the suspention strut as not to stress the lines.
next up put the stub axle on ensuring its on the right side of the car the caplier mounts should be at 2oclock put locktite on the threads of the bolts before securing the stub axle to the car.
slip the hub onto the axle and secure tourque to around 200nm
align the disk with the retaining screw and attatch
insert pads making sure not to get grease or brake fuluid on them slot caliper over and secure ot the carier attatch handbrake cable and remove old one.
to remove old handbrake cable pull off the handbrake cover and you will see the cables just undo the adjuster screws and pull cable from under the car.
attatch the eeze bleed system and pump the brake pedle a few times till it gets harder. put a clear tube over the bleed nipple and loosen off leave till fluid runs out with no air in it
now too adjust the handbrake pump the pedel a few more times now the system is bled just to settle the pistons. put the wheel on and see if it turns pull the handbrake up 4 cliskc and adjust till the wheel stops turning release handbrake check the wheel moves freely repeat till it locks up when handbrake is on and moves when off.
spray brakes with brake cleaner and all joints where you have spilt fluid. take for a test drive. check for leaks. keep an eye on the joints for a few days ensuring there are no leaks. if your paranoyed like me you can use this on the joints ( not necaccerry but for pece of mind its good )Linky[/ur]
urrm i think i have covered everything. feel free to ask questions or mod my guide in any way or offer up tips and advice to me as this was from experiance.
i sourced a compleate rear beam for £100 so all in it cost me £120 ish.
parts needed
Stub axles
Carriers
Calipers
Hub
Disk
Handbrake cable
brake pipes
Tools needed
Caliper rewind tool
Selection of spanners 10,11,13,15,16,17,30mm
Loctite blue threadlocker
1 Freezerbag
brake fluid
bleeding kit or a hand
plyers/mole grips
hammer
screwdriver
prybar
string
ok start off by putting your car on stands and releasing the handbrake and removing the wheels.
to reduce fluid loss open the brake fluid resovior and put the freezerbag over it then put the lid back on causing a airtight seal. (use on of the caps from the exe bleed kit as the res on teh mk4 has a float thing that stops you doing this,
remove the gold center cap from the brake drum you will see a splitpin you need to remove under that is a castle nut that slips off and another under that is hand tight. this should allow you to pull the drum off revealing the innards if not use the pry bar to remove the outside fo the drum.
next up is to remove the brake shoes
you will see a selection of springs the spring at the bottom that clips the 2 shoes together needs releasing and there are 2 retaining clips ( goldy things on tops of springs) grab them with a plyers push down on the spring and twist 90degrees and release once you have done that to both sides and removed the spring the shoes should just pull out you can now remove the handbrak cable.
now you will see 4 bolts with a metal ring half covering them i just prised that off and undid the bolts before you remove the last one remove the brake line form the back of the brake drum then undo the last nut and pull the drum backing plate off and thestub axle.
you can now remove the brake line from the car at the joint by the rear beam and connect the caliper line into there and hang the caliper from the suspention strut as not to stress the lines.
next up put the stub axle on ensuring its on the right side of the car the caplier mounts should be at 2oclock put locktite on the threads of the bolts before securing the stub axle to the car.
slip the hub onto the axle and secure tourque to around 200nm
align the disk with the retaining screw and attatch
insert pads making sure not to get grease or brake fuluid on them slot caliper over and secure ot the carier attatch handbrake cable and remove old one.
to remove old handbrake cable pull off the handbrake cover and you will see the cables just undo the adjuster screws and pull cable from under the car.
attatch the eeze bleed system and pump the brake pedle a few times till it gets harder. put a clear tube over the bleed nipple and loosen off leave till fluid runs out with no air in it
now too adjust the handbrake pump the pedel a few more times now the system is bled just to settle the pistons. put the wheel on and see if it turns pull the handbrake up 4 cliskc and adjust till the wheel stops turning release handbrake check the wheel moves freely repeat till it locks up when handbrake is on and moves when off.
spray brakes with brake cleaner and all joints where you have spilt fluid. take for a test drive. check for leaks. keep an eye on the joints for a few days ensuring there are no leaks. if your paranoyed like me you can use this on the joints ( not necaccerry but for pece of mind its good )Linky[/ur]
urrm i think i have covered everything. feel free to ask questions or mod my guide in any way or offer up tips and advice to me as this was from experiance.
i sourced a compleate rear beam for £100 so all in it cost me £120 ish.
Last edited by warrmr on Thu Jul 13, 2006 9:02 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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