yesterday after selling our much loved polo gti 6n2,we took delivery of
our new 1.8t polo gti ,the car is brand new ,and its in black ,the only thing
puzzling me is we seem to have the undertray in the engine compartment
missing ,the centre section , can someone be so kind to check there car
and let me know they have one!,our old gti had it ,also whats the best way
of washing the car witout scrathing the paintwork,again old car was silver
and did not show scratches but mrs snowygti insisted on black !
we love the car ,cant wait to get it remapped
polo gti ...help needed !
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KennyPOLO_Gti
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 1552
- Joined: Fri Jan 12, 2007 8:04 pm
- Location: Ayrshire, Scotland
The best thing to do is to wash it using two buckets, one with clean water and the other with shampoo. Use a quality sponge like zymol or surf city / wash mitt and after each panel rinse it.
A bit excessive I know, its worth doing though and get yourself a bottle of Duragloss shampoo. Its the best!
Kenny you nutter, dont need to be da'ing your car that often. Perhaps you're not removing them properly. What combination have you got?
A bit excessive I know, its worth doing though and get yourself a bottle of Duragloss shampoo. Its the best!
Kenny you nutter, dont need to be da'ing your car that often. Perhaps you're not removing them properly. What combination have you got?
polo gti ...help needed !
thanks for the replys ,the thing is with the under tray is there is even screws
in it waiting to connect the middle section on ,asked the stealer and there master tec didn,t know either! whats best for drying off at the moment i use autglm synthectic leather
in it waiting to connect the middle section on ,asked the stealer and there master tec didn,t know either! whats best for drying off at the moment i use autglm synthectic leather
sonus do good drying towels, the der wonder and show car ones are the best i have found, (also have a black gti)
my method for cleaning is af follows
wash with megs gold class and 2 bucket method using sonus genuine lambs wool wash mitt
megs clay and wash again(only once a year)
spritz with megs last touch detailer
dry off using sonus drying towels, 1 for upper sections, 1 for lower, 1 for wheels
zymol hd cleanse (only needed once0
zymol carbon applied in straight lines (process done twice)
seal with megs #21 synthetic sealent
only gets done to this extent every 2 - 3 weeks and protection is still defo there, and would last much longer, but im a bit of a cleaning tart
after its done once, a simple wash qd and dry with trim treated is plenty enough
my 56 plate gti is fitted with the tray your saying yours is missing, so im not sure on why yours is not there
oh and one more thing, welcome to the club
my method for cleaning is af follows
wash with megs gold class and 2 bucket method using sonus genuine lambs wool wash mitt
megs clay and wash again(only once a year)
spritz with megs last touch detailer
dry off using sonus drying towels, 1 for upper sections, 1 for lower, 1 for wheels
zymol hd cleanse (only needed once0
zymol carbon applied in straight lines (process done twice)
seal with megs #21 synthetic sealent
only gets done to this extent every 2 - 3 weeks and protection is still defo there, and would last much longer, but im a bit of a cleaning tart
after its done once, a simple wash qd and dry with trim treated is plenty enough
my 56 plate gti is fitted with the tray your saying yours is missing, so im not sure on why yours is not there
oh and one more thing, welcome to the club
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KennyPOLO_Gti
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 1552
- Joined: Fri Jan 12, 2007 8:04 pm
- Location: Ayrshire, Scotland
this could be where your surface marring is coming from then mate, as if not done absolutely correctly it can inflict scratches
even when done correctly, clay is known to marr the paint slightly,
this is why in many detailers processes after clay, the car is machined with an orbital or da polisher, cutting first then polishing back
also kenny, do you use a sponge or wash mitt? if so what one, and how do you dry the car, chamois or drying towel?
even when done correctly, clay is known to marr the paint slightly,
this is why in many detailers processes after clay, the car is machined with an orbital or da polisher, cutting first then polishing back
also kenny, do you use a sponge or wash mitt? if so what one, and how do you dry the car, chamois or drying towel?
thanks again for all the replys looks like i,m gonna have to do some investing in car care products !can anyone recomend a good site for
buying all this gear! and i know its been on before ,but whats the latest
on getting a remap ! who,s the best tuner to go to , dont care how far i travel ,prob let it run in first making sure theres no problems before i get
it done looks like this is a very helpful site cheers everyone!
buying all this gear! and i know its been on before ,but whats the latest
on getting a remap ! who,s the best tuner to go to , dont care how far i travel ,prob let it run in first making sure theres no problems before i get
it done looks like this is a very helpful site cheers everyone!
im with APR and have stage 2 software with turbo back milltek including high flow cat, green filter, pd160 intake, Forge motorsport front mounted intercooler, forge TIP and forge intercooler to throttle body hoses and intercooler to turbo hoses, New south performance power gasket, APR R1 DV and n75J valve and im running a smooth yet aggressive 223 bhp and 271 ft/lb torque
all work carried out by awesome gti in irlam manchester, who are vw audi specialists
as for somewhere to get your stuff from for cleaning, i only ever use www.cleanyourcar.co.uk
service and pricing is absolutely spot on, and a massive range too, always comes at worst the second day after ordering it too
all work carried out by awesome gti in irlam manchester, who are vw audi specialists
as for somewhere to get your stuff from for cleaning, i only ever use www.cleanyourcar.co.uk
service and pricing is absolutely spot on, and a massive range too, always comes at worst the second day after ordering it too
thanks for that jeff ,just trying to get my head around all the cleaning
advice! was thinking of getting zymol sponge for washing and sonus towel for drying whats the best and not too expensive shampoo to use
think i will prob use awesome gti with stage 1 remap ,anyone had any problems engine blowing up !etc what sort of bhp from stage 1,and
can you get miltek exhaust for the polo gti ...so many questions !
advice! was thinking of getting zymol sponge for washing and sonus towel for drying whats the best and not too expensive shampoo to use
think i will prob use awesome gti with stage 1 remap ,anyone had any problems engine blowing up !etc what sort of bhp from stage 1,and
can you get miltek exhaust for the polo gti ...so many questions !
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KennyPOLO_Gti
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 1552
- Joined: Fri Jan 12, 2007 8:04 pm
- Location: Ayrshire, Scotland
snowy,
stage 1 although quoted at 204 bhp is nearer 190 in truth mate, and yes, awesome sell the milltek for the gti, i have one, as for spec, faz's car is all but identical in mods, only a few bits different, so will be good for you to feel the difference over the stock car
as an alternative, look out for jason off here (MORE BHP) he has a highly sucessful tuning business and works wonders on the 1.8 20vT engines too, and at the moment is doing his stage 1 remap which takes the car over 200 bhp for just £150 instead of £375 for the APR stage 1
as for cleaning, dont buy a sponge for doing the paint, get the sonus genuine sheepskin wash mitt, its the best around mate, and faaaaaaaaaaaaaaar softer to the paint than a sponge
shampoo is a personal choice, myself, i use meguiars gold class, as its kind to the paint and leaves it looking great even only after a wash and dry, i have used others such as poorboys, zymol, auto glym and megs softwash, but they dont compare to gold class
as for engines blown up, no mate, the stock internals of the engine are ok for up to 320 bhp when the rods need uprating, but if you get to running that power, you will have already have done these at that stage, obviously you cant just map to 320 bhp, other mods are required such as injectors, FPR, turbo, exhaust, induction, intercooler etc etc etc
kenny,
i sold my 007p mate, in favour of the APR R1 dv, being diaphram based not piston based, it reacts far faster, improving the drive i seek from my car, rapid and responsive, it also holds boost better, before i was getting an on off on off acceleration sensation, this was the piston not being able to hold all the boost and doing small dumps to release it, where the diaphram based r1, holds it until you let off acceleration, and, on flooring it from low revs, boost recovery is achieved noticably quicker
the other bonus of the r1 is NEVER needing to maintain it like the forge and others, nothing to grease up or clean each service, its a fit and forget component that really does work well
stage 1 although quoted at 204 bhp is nearer 190 in truth mate, and yes, awesome sell the milltek for the gti, i have one, as for spec, faz's car is all but identical in mods, only a few bits different, so will be good for you to feel the difference over the stock car
as an alternative, look out for jason off here (MORE BHP) he has a highly sucessful tuning business and works wonders on the 1.8 20vT engines too, and at the moment is doing his stage 1 remap which takes the car over 200 bhp for just £150 instead of £375 for the APR stage 1
as for cleaning, dont buy a sponge for doing the paint, get the sonus genuine sheepskin wash mitt, its the best around mate, and faaaaaaaaaaaaaaar softer to the paint than a sponge
shampoo is a personal choice, myself, i use meguiars gold class, as its kind to the paint and leaves it looking great even only after a wash and dry, i have used others such as poorboys, zymol, auto glym and megs softwash, but they dont compare to gold class
as for engines blown up, no mate, the stock internals of the engine are ok for up to 320 bhp when the rods need uprating, but if you get to running that power, you will have already have done these at that stage, obviously you cant just map to 320 bhp, other mods are required such as injectors, FPR, turbo, exhaust, induction, intercooler etc etc etc
kenny,
i sold my 007p mate, in favour of the APR R1 dv, being diaphram based not piston based, it reacts far faster, improving the drive i seek from my car, rapid and responsive, it also holds boost better, before i was getting an on off on off acceleration sensation, this was the piston not being able to hold all the boost and doing small dumps to release it, where the diaphram based r1, holds it until you let off acceleration, and, on flooring it from low revs, boost recovery is achieved noticably quicker
the other bonus of the r1 is NEVER needing to maintain it like the forge and others, nothing to grease up or clean each service, its a fit and forget component that really does work well