2007 Polo 1.4 Electric Passenger Window Intermittent Problem

[Esgobion]

Hi guys!

Just bought the above car for my daughter as a first vehicle and totally love it. I have just one niggle that I am working on, and that is the electric window on the passenger side.

I have trawled the forum and have seen lots of electric window issues, along with pointers on how to fix. Have tried just about all of it but am still not getting it resolved.

The issue is as follows:

1. There is a dual switch on the drivers side for operating the electric windows. The right side window works 100% of the time. This is all good
2. The dual switch on the drivers side does not operate the left window whatsoever. I have replaced the switch today with an aftermarket part thinking that maybe some water had got into the switch and corroded it. No difference. Still doesn't work. So now I have a spare switch
3. There is a single switch in the passenger door. When I first picked up the car this was also not working.

OK so many people suggest whipping off the rubber gaitor in the door hinge and checking for breaks/shorts/corrosion. I did this on the left door panel (The lowest connector is the one that operates the electric window, and this is the same on the right side of the door panel as well as far as I can ascertain) and I did notice some greeny blue residue around the top of the connector block. I cleaned this up with vinegar, dried off and applied some WD40. Guess what? The left window switch started to work!...but it was intermittent. If I took the connector off, wiggled it, and put it back in it would work for a short while, then stop again. I have done this a few times but it isn't lasting very long.

I have also whipped off the right hand side door frame gaitor and cleaned up the free end connectors, there wasn't much in the way of any corrosion in these connectors but I cleaned them anyway.

I am assuming that this is an electrical problem of some kind. I can get both windows to work but not consistently (and I have failed to get the drivers side switch to operate the passenger side) so am guessing that its nothing to do with regulators or motors etc.

I was wondering perhaps if there was some corrosion behind the fixed end connectors held within the doorframe on either the passenger or drivers side? I don't really want to strip down any door panels but I would love to sort this problem out.

Any advice or assistance would be greatly appreciated.

By the way I also buzzed out the top connectors on both door panels and noticed on both sides that the two wires were at zero ohms i.e. connected. Not sure if this is of relevance.

Many thanks.

[Esgobion]

I have a further build which may be important. I have read that it's possible to open the electric windows by putting the ignition key in the door lock and holding it in the open position for 10+ seconds. Likewise same for closing the windows. I have tried this but it does not work. Now wondering if there is a potential issue with the comfort control module.....

[Esgobion]

Ok so I reset the comfort control module by disconnecting the battery and grounding the positive lead from the battery (capacitive discharge). Didn't really have any effect other than I had to reset the digital clock and type in the radio code.

Decided to double check the door hinge free end connectors again and this time I whipped out the middle ones not just the top and bottom. Right side was clean, left side had some corrosion which I cleaned up as first post. Refitted everything and the passenger switch on the passenger door worked again. .....for about 10 minutes or so then gave up.

I have yet to get the passenger switch in the drivers door to operate the passenger window.

I have run out of ideas now!

Any suggestions or is it main dealer time?

Thanks

[Esgobion]

Ok so herewith a further update.

I decided today to take off the passenger door card and have a look around. It was all relatively clean inside but as the window has probably not been operated for some time I decided that it would be good to liberally coat all of the moving parts with silicone spray. I didn't do anything with the regulator which is behind the internal panel other than to give a good soaking on the lower brackets through the two observation holes and have a good spray around through the holes to lubricate everything. I also sprayed the motor and it's associated electronic module to dispel any moisture in there.

I refitted the door card and had lunch whilst it all worked in.

The passenger side electric switch now appears to work reliably. I am very pleased with this.

In addition, the drivers side passenger window switch has now also seemed to come to life as a result of the above. It's not operating 100% but I think it just needs time to settle and for the electronics to stabilise. I will continue to work the window up and down and play with the drivers switch so overall it's almost sorted.

Feels so good not to have to take to main dealer and get fleeced

[whitegtipolo]

sounds like a connection problem where u found it dirty id remove it again clean it all with contact cleaner and stuff some electrical grease in there

[Esgobion]

OK yet another update

It remains temperamental. If I leave the car for a while and come back the left window doesn't work at all. I can reset it by removing the connectors from the left door hinge panel for a minute or two and the left switch starts working again. The right switch has also worked at times but not at the moment.

I think the problem lies in the ECU on the motor on the left door. So tomorrow I am taking the car to a local auto electric specialist and let them have a look with their test gear.

Will keep you posted.

[Esgobion]

Ok so the auto electrician ran the diagnostics and confirmed that it is the ECU on the motor.

Problem is that VW Main Dealer only sells the complete unit including the Motor and the ECU for £186.

Anyone know where I could pick up just a new ECU? They simply clip to the top of the motor assembly.

[alexperkins]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_trksi ... &_from=R40

Some new motors - food for thought

[Esgobion]

Thanks alexperkins that's definitely the unit.

What I would prefer though is just the ECU and for it to be new. On web at the moment but it's not coming up in isolation

[alexperkins]

The ECU is sadly not available as a seperate part - you would have to get a new/used unit and swap the part over if that was what you wanted to do.

VW only supply it as a complete module. I've checked ETKA and no joy im afraid.

[Esgobion]

The auto electrician has a mate who is a vw specialist and he said that he would speak with him later this evening to see if he has an ecu in his big box of bits. If not I'll probably suck my teeth and buy the whole unit new and just swap over the ecu.

I'll then have a spare motor if needed.

Thank you for your help.

I'll post when it's all done hopefully to confirm solved.

[Esgobion]

Ok no joy with the auto electrician so I have ordered the new part from main dealer.

Plan to fit on the weekend and will post update.

Parts department said that it's a simple three torx bolt removal and replacement for the complete unit. Is this true? I don't want to remove the motor and disturb any of the regulator mechanism the other side of the metal plate. I am guessing the on the rear side of the motor itself is some form of cog mechanism that slots into the regulator mechanism.

The thought of disturbing the regulator haunts me

[alexperkins]

Yes it's a simple replacement

I wouldn't go splitting the unit. You are best to swap the unit in its entirety

[Esgobion]

Picked up the new motor and ecu from the main dealer and fitted it today.

It hasn't fixed the problem. Symptoms remain as before.

Any ideas?

Is there any read across between this problem and the fact that holding the key lock in the door does not open and close the windows?

Incidentally I also changed the drivers headlamp assembly as there was a crack in the original unit letting in water. Very fiddly job but I managed to get the old unit out without having to take the complete front grille and bumper off. It's possible to get away with removing just over half the screws from the bumper and with a little assistance from the wife pulling the bumper carefully out I was able to get my small hands behind the bumper to access the fixing screw. Need to be careful though. A stubby torx would have helped too, and the small screw holding the edge of the bumper to the adjacent panel took over an hour to come out! Also need to ensure that the bumper is clipped back in correctly before refitting screws to minimise any gaps etc.

[Esgobion]

Decided to do what whitegtipolo suggested i.e. go back into the connector and give it a real good clean using electrical contact cleaner and then grease up.

Also intend to return the motor and ECU to the dealer. 20% restocking charge but hey I still get back £130.