POLO 6R. HEATED SEATS. OEM.

[iichel]

fuse? power? buttons backlight?

[habib_123]

fuse? power? buttons backlight?

The buttons have backlight. I spent a good few hours with the fuse wiring and trying to sort that out. However I am unsure how to test it out, if they are getting power from the fuse. (Fuse works fine its brand new).

On the drivers side when I am driving, I can feel a small amount of heat on the back part of the seat (without pressing any buttons). But nothing underneath.

Anyone have suggestions?

Thanks

[ciclo]

With a multimeter check the voltage (+) on both kufatec white connectors, also the good grounding (-).

T2/2 = power supply (voltage)
T2/1 = ground (continuity)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TdUK6RPdIrA

[habib_123]

So the problem is the fuse cable. It is not providing any
voltage (power) to the kufatec white connectors. Could anyone please attach a photo of how they did the fuse wiring as mine is wrong. The ground is fine.

Thanks

[ciclo]

Did you turn on the ignition switch to make the measurements?

I think it is better that you upload the images of what you have done because I do not think anyone has the images you request.

However:
viewtopic.php?f=56&t=63942&start=30#p519037

This has no mystery.

Your fusebox (RHD) is 180º. For example:


omg, all these images that I upload will remain in the net forever ......

[habib_123]

Please forgive my terrible drawing.

This is what I have currently done.

https://postimg.org/image/bavrmqi1z/

Also Ciclo, yes ignition was on.

Would anyone know how to remove the connector from the fuse box (large connector)

I have this but it's impossible to come out:

[iichel]

you could be a doctor one day with that handwriting.

the laser terminal tool is fine for removing terminals, just spread the legs a bit.

what you've now done is connect the yellow wire to the grey wire, while connecting both wires to a fuse? the same fuse?

[habib_123]

Hi iichel,

Thanks for your comment.

Yes. That is what i did. As that was the formula that I had in my head to make it work . But ciclo made it clear for me.

There is one (very thick) red cable that I need to "borrow" power from. I need to use a 2.5mm² vw repair wire and connect that to 37 "A". The grey kufatec cable connector goes to 37 "B".

That is what I'm thinking of doing. Can anyone confirm if this is right?

Thanks

[ciclo]

Please show us an image from your fuse box before...

There is one (very thick) red cable that I need to "borrow" power from. I need to use a 2.5mm² vw repair wire and connect that to 37 "A". The grey kufatec cable connector goes to 37 "B".
That is what I'm thinking of doing. Can anyone confirm if this is right?

Yes

you could be a doctor one day with that handwriting.

the laser terminal tool is fine for removing terminals, just spread the legs a bit.

what you've now done is connect the yellow wire to the grey wire, while connecting both wires to a fuse? the same fuse?

same result like this viewtopic.php?f=56&t=69547#p518900 so = 0

Please forgive my terrible drawing.
This is what I have currently done.
https://postimg.org/image/bavrmqi1z/

Thanks.
This drawing deserves that I give you a gift ... please show us your fuse box.

you are a brave...

[habib_123]

I have now done the wiring and the kufatec white connectors are receiving 12.71v. The fuse is providing around 12.17v.

The problem now is that when the car is fully on, i press the button to turn it on and the orange light turns on for a second then turns off. Then it doesn't turn back on. The fuse hasn't blown. I don't understand what is wrong.

I have attached photos of fuse box.

https://postimg.org/image/t9ftiz5a1/

https://postimg.org/image/hmkz5t733/ec99910e/

https://postimg.org/image/9xtav42w1/47a1ac4f/

https://postimg.org/image/ajyq02b4z/31c1c06a/

https://postimg.org/image/fnd1snyy5/7e6bc1d6/

https://postimg.org/image/p43pwrlyf/6825f097/

[iichel]

So what you want is something like this:



I assume you put the wire for the BCM into the right connector. That should be ok.
You might want to check the resistance of the new heating pads between T2/1 and T2/2 below the seats.

This behaviour of switching on and directly off indicates that probably the controle module thinks the heating pad is faulty.
Resistance either too high (wiring break) or too low (short circuit). The thresholds of the control module are quite narrow.

[habib_123]

On both sides of the connector on the multimeter it is showing as ground for both. I'm really confused. This is for passenger side currently. Haven't touched drivers side.

[iichel]

grounds as in 0V or grounds as in 0 Ohm to chassis ground (battery minus)?

Just to be sure:
1 thick grey wire with a standard power timer from control module to fuse box, +12 volt Terminal 75 (regulated by igntion lock/key twist)
1 thick grey wire with an eye at the end, connected to chassis GND (works, since you have button background lighting)
1 thin grey wire that went into the BCM, BCM controlled switch-off in case of start/stop system
1 thin grey wire that went to a blue-grey wire, terminal 58d, button lighting (works)

Two thick grey wires to passenger seat
Two thick grey wires to driver seat

Did you measure the resistance between the two wires, coming from the car (control module) or from the seat (heating pads)?

Please measure the resistance of the heating pads on both sides (driver and passenger). I'll do the same on my factory heating pads. They should be (almost) the same.

[habib_123]

Hi iichel,

I have made a video of the problem:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GU4BqcgVqyg

Basically, when the Kufatec wiring is connected to the heated pads; both connector pins show as ground. It's annoying me so much. I don't know how to fix it. It is the same for both seats.

[ciclo]

This is totally wrong yet.




In the video you are checking for continuity, and it's right.