Hatchback Trim Panel Removal

[TurboTrev]

Does anyone know how to remove the big black internal hatchback panel? Thanks.

[Slider09]

Remove the two screws, 1 in each pull area.
Use a trim tool to go around the edge prying the trim loose.


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[monkeyhanger]

What are you doing to remove itTrev? Rear dashcam?

[Dark_cze]

Remove the two screws, 1 in each pull area.
Use a trim tool to go around the edge prying the trim loose.


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Except there are 4 screews. Rest is just prying

[Slider09]

Remove the two screws, 1 in each pull area.
Use a trim tool to go around the edge prying the trim loose.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Except there are 4 screews. Rest is just prying

Sorry, just noticed this is on cars from 2018.

Apologies


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[TurboTrev]

Remove the two screws, 1 in each pull area.
Use a trim tool to go around the edge prying the trim loose.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Except there are 4 screews. Rest is just prying.

Thanks chaps. Where are the other 2 screws? Also, does the plastic trim around the boot lock need removing, or does the panel come without having to touch that (or is it part of the main panel)? Thanks.

[silverhairs]

Remove the two screws, 1 in each pull area.
Use a trim tool to go around the edge prying the trim loose.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Except there are 4 screews. Rest is just prying.

Thanks chaps. Where are the other 2 screws? Also, does the plastic trim around the boot lock need removing, or does the panel come without having to touch that (or is it part of the main panel)? Thanks.

Why are you trying to remove the panel in the first place? Some other member has asked this question, but with no answer.

[monkeyhanger]

I have a photo from my dashcam fitting with the tailgate trim off. I'll upload later, but basically you have 4 screws - 2 in the bar shape cavity meant for a warning triangle and 1 each in the dark reaches of the grab handle cavity.

[TurboTrev]

I have a photo from my dashcam fitting with the tailgate trim off. I'll upload later, but basically you have 4 screws - 2 in the bar shape cavity meant for a warning triangle and 1 each in the dark reaches of the grab handle cavity.

Thanks, appreciated. Dashcam fitting for me on the cards also.

[monkeyhanger]

I have a photo from my dashcam fitting with the tailgate trim off. I'll upload later, but basically you have 4 screws - 2 in the bar shape cavity meant for a warning triangle and 1 each in the dark reaches of the grab handle cavity.

Thanks, appreciated. Dashcam fitting for me on the cards also.

Oo. I have put a dashcam fitment guide up in here somewhere, but have realised that I ran out of time and didn't finish it with the rear tailgate. Feeding the rear cam cabling from the rear of the car headlining to the rubber gaiter that carrys tailgate wiring is a bit of a sod. Easier to bend a coat hanger into a U shape and feed from the gaiter hole to the hole above the headlining, attach cable to coat hanger and then pull through rather than trying to thread the cable through. Then down the left hand side of the tailgate frame and tape up the slack to the tailgate lock/wiper wiring and have your rear camera pop up above the rear wiper knuckle, high enough to be within the swept area of the rear wiper.

[TurboTrev]

Thanks, just taken the panel off, much easier than I thought it would be.

[monkeyhanger]

Thanks, just taken the panel off, much easier than I thought it would be.

Theres a lot of spring pins to line up when you put it back on. I like to put a spot of masking tape on the reverse side of where they are, so you know where to give a sharp whack with the palm of your hand when refitting.

[TurboTrev]

Thanks, just taken the panel off, much easier than I thought it would be.

Theres a lot of spring pins to line up when you put it back on. I like to put a spot of masking tape on the reverse side of where they are, so you know where to give a sharp whack with the palm of your hand when refitting.

Good idea, thanks!

[RUM4MO]

Thanks, just taken the panel off, much easier than I thought it would be.

Theres a lot of spring pins to line up when you put it back on. I like to put a spot of masking tape on the reverse side of where they are, so you know where to give a sharp whack with the palm of your hand when refitting.

I also, on my wife's 2015 6C Polo, took a picture of where the masking tape with clip positions highlighted with marker pen were, when I was adding in a Skoda pull down handle for my wife who is roughly 5ft tall - just in case I need to get back in there in the future!

Another thing I noticed on that car was, cableform made by "VW Botswana" - so local sourcing of some parts!

[Nora]

It took me ages to figure out there where 4 (T20 torx) screws holding it up where, the 1st 2 where easy to find, but after pulling and huffing, I decided there must be some more.
then I spent ages trying to feed the cable down the OEM cable duct, and along the inside of the left steel frame. What caused me greatest frustration was the fact that there is a double skin/rib, and 1 of the 2 channels ends in a blind end, after eventually guiding it into the right channel, I found that if you pop out the bung that holds the heated element wire you can make life easier and feed the cable half way down and eventually to where I wanted it to end. However after I end up with the hanging out the OEM duct I hit a dead end as I was unable to find a way to feed the cable thru the roof liner towards the front. So after 3hrs on a hot summer day I spat the dummy and ripped it out and went to the pub, as couldn’t leave the duct loose.

It now seems I somehow dropped a clip inside the boot lid and it’s rattling around every time I shut the boot lid.