my Polo 6R pulling to left

[atopman]

hi, my polo still pulls slightly to left, if i let go steering wheel it starts to go left, if i hold the wheel straight , it goes straight.
Have done the following:
tyres look good, ( i had a kerb hit, and replaced ripped tyre with part worn , different brand)
wheels spin freely
wishbone control arm inspected, looks ok .
bent left tie rod was replaced
shock absorber left was leaking & knocking replaced it with top mount.
subframe moved slightly about 5mm clockwise as the left wheel was slightly further back, now look equal.
had the tracking checked and adjusted on hunter machine with these results:

REAR: L--------R
camber -1.04' -1.52
Toe 0.01' 0.18'
Thrust -0.08'

FRONT: L ---------R
camber -0.25' -1.20'
caster 4.18' 4.32'
Toe 0.04' 0.06'

i was wondering if the thrust angle is the cause of this , and wether this can be 'adjusted out within tolerances.
Anyone know what the actaul specs are ?

[iichel]

That's quite a lot of camber difference. Did you replace both shocks?

[atopman]

the right shock looked good so wasnt replaced.
the camber did change when the sub frame was moved, i think it was L -1.10 ...& R -0.44 before the move, but this reading was
from a different tyres shop.
I just came back from a good body shop mechanic, after inspecting it all over, he recommends replace the left wheel hub, as its a weak point on kerb hits, it looked crooked to him, bent in or out, cant remember which way he said, and he will also redo alignment manually.
what do you guys think i should do?

[Jay-Jay]

Firstly, you need to make sure the front subframe is alligned properly, following the VW official precedure explained in ElsaWin.
Then, you should check the conditions of the front strut top mounts: with time they collaps and become shorter, making the camber more negative.
If you say only left strut and topmount have been replaced, then I understand why you have a lot of negative camber on the front right wheel: check the topmount of the front right strut, because it could be compressed and shorter.

[RUM4MO]

That's quite a lot of camber difference. Did you replace both shocks?

Exactly, spec for front camber -20' +/- 30' so that means -50' > +10' difference side to side to be within 30'.

Edit:- these limits are for standard suspension though the difference side to side is the limit for all suspensions.

Another edit:- spec for rear camber -1degree 30 minutes +/- 10 minutes difference side to side to be within 30 minutes

Yet another edit:- spec for rear toe +21' +/- 10' difference side to side to be within 20'

[atopman]

a few weeks ago, the camber was even and ok, but the caster was 3.19 & 4.53. way off. To try and improve this the subframe was adjusted clockwise 5mm.
This gave caster 4.18 & 4.32, which is a bit better.
But this introduced the large negative camber -1.20 on right, and the car still pulls left.

Latest:
I have just swapped left & right wheels over ( had a second hand tyre on the left a few weeks ago)
and the car is now driving straight !

[atopman]

Latest:
as swapping the wheels from left to right fixed the pulling left, and because it was 10 years old
i went back to the tyre shop and got a matching replacement tyre, this was fitted on the right, replacing the
dodgy one. The car drives okay, no pulling. !
I know there is likely still some camber, i will check into that soon.
Lesson:
part worn tyre shops can give you dodgy tyres, so if repairing a kerb hit, like i did, make sure your tyre is the same make and model of the other tyres, one being replaced.( I wasted a lot of time thinking well the tyres been replaced with used one, but that one was a different brand.)