Polo 1.2 TSI Disc/pads combo

[iichel]

Not bad. Check out the condition of the sliding pins too after 10 years.

[Le_Combattant]

Not bad. Check out the condition of the sliding pins too after 10 years.

Could be rusty ?

For the price, I will buy them te be sure.

EDIT: for the sliding pin, what kind of grease could be used ? Copper or lithium ?

[iichel]

Both are good

[amer6R]

silicone grease, red rubber grease, ceramic grease, you have ate plastilube that is great for slide pins. Do not grease the end of the slide pin! only around it.

[Le_Combattant]

silicone grease, red rubber grease, ceramic grease, you have ate plastilube that is great for slide pins. Do not grease the end of the slide pin! only around it.

According to ATE, the grease is not compatible with plastic/rubber part.

With the rubber bellows, it's a little bit "dangerous" ?

[amer6R]

silicone grease, red rubber grease, ceramic grease, you have ate plastilube that is great for slide pins. Do not grease the end of the slide pin! only around it.

According to ATE, the grease is not compatible with plastic/rubber part.

With the rubber bellows, it's a little bit "dangerous" ?

"ATE Plastilube Brake Lubricant is formulated to prevent squealing from brake pads and provide protection against corrosion for caliper guide surfaces including caliper slide pins and between the piston and backing plate."


Ate plastilube is used my Mercedes-Benz and BMW to grease the slide pins and also metal on metal contacts.

If you doubt it there is "ATE brake cylinder paste" That is used for for brake calliper overhaul jobs. - Meaning its safe for rubber components

Lithium based greases and anti sieze paste is not to be used on guide pins because it can cause rubber swelling.

Red rubber grease is used on internal calliper o-rings and is 100% safe to be use around rubber and metal components.

Silicone grease also.

Ceramic grease is also safe to be used on metal to metal contacts, and guide pins. The advantage of ceramic grease is its high burning off point.



You can use ceramic, ate plastilube, silicone paste, red rubber grease on slide pins.

On the face of the hub, caliper bracket ( where the pads contact the bracket you can use light coat of: anti sieze paste/ grease, ceramic grease, ate plastilube.

You dont need to use any grease on the calliper. The pads come with like sticky backing. Make sure to clean the calliper good.

You can use a File to file down the layer of rust on the caliper carrier bracket. ( file works much better than a steel brush)

You can use a scotch pad or a steel brush to clean your slide pins.

There is no need to replace the slide pins if they dont have pitting or damage on them.

[Le_Combattant]

silicone grease, red rubber grease, ceramic grease, you have ate plastilube that is great for slide pins. Do not grease the end of the slide pin! only around it.

According to ATE, the grease is not compatible with plastic/rubber part.

With the rubber bellows, it's a little bit "dangerous" ?

"ATE Plastilube Brake Lubricant is formulated to prevent squealing from brake pads and provide protection against corrosion for caliper guide surfaces including caliper slide pins and between the piston and backing plate."


Ate plastilube is used my Mercedes-Benz and BMW to grease the slide pins and also metal on metal contacts.

If you doubt it there is "ATE brake cylinder paste" That is used for for brake calliper overhaul jobs. - Meaning its safe for rubber components

Lithium based greases and anti sieze paste is not to be used on guide pins because it can cause rubber swelling.

Red rubber grease is used on internal calliper o-rings and is 100% safe to be use around rubber and metal components.

Silicone grease also.

Ceramic grease is also safe to be used on metal to metal contacts, and guide pins. The advantage of ceramic grease is its high burning off point.



You can use ceramic, ate plastilube, silicone paste, red rubber grease on slide pins.

On the face of the hub, caliper bracket ( where the pads contact the bracket you can use light coat of: anti sieze paste/ grease, ceramic grease, ate plastilube.

You dont need to use any grease on the calliper. The pads come with like sticky backing. Make sure to clean the calliper good.

You can use a File to file down the layer of rust on the caliper carrier bracket. ( file works much better than a steel brush)

You can use a scotch pad or a steel brush to clean your slide pins.

There is no need to replace the slide pins if they dont have pitting or damage on them.

I'm agree with you.

But, their is a "but"

On the back of ATE Plastitube, it's wrote "Never apply to the friction surfaces of the brake, or to rubber parts"

I found on internet TRW pfg110 product. It's seems to be a good one.

[RUM4MO]

I completely agree with the previous posting by amer6R, though I just stick with silicone grease on any guide pins that are protected with rubber boots, probably because I have a large enough tube of that grease.

As time goes on, I find less and less places on cars to use up my copper grease - it used to be the ONE to use everywhere maybe 30>40 years ago, but not now for many reasons, for instance that it will react with rubbers/plastics and cause them to swell, the copper in it is yet another material to add the hub steel and alloy of road wheels and so not the best choice of grease for wheel hubs.

Its original and sole intended use was for furnace bolts, where it was used to stop bolts seizing up in extremely high temperature areas where they were removed after a short service life - ie leave these bolts in for years and the anti-seize properties had vanished and the bolts were now properly seized, its use in brakes was only meant to be to help damped down vibration and so noise in brake pad<>calliper contact points.

I too was one of these people that initially used it every where - but I've wised up now.

At least for the 288mm front brakes on the 6C VW Polo, there is no wear sensor used, but everywhere that I've checked, always only sell pads with a wear sensor which I thought was strange, but it must be down to "most" of these front pads get fitted to cars that do have brake wear warning systems built into them. Then, I must confess, last week I finally realised what the comment in the parts listing against that version of brake pad meant - the notes seems to indicate that you need to remove the brake wear sensor cable when fitting that version of pads to a 6C VW Polo! Typically in the past, you only ever bought pads with brake wear sensor(s) if you needed them, as buying pads without them was always cheaper - but not so with these brakes now.

[amer6R]

Honestly,
Go with what pleases you. The front slide pins dont really have to be greased because of their design. The issue is the oxide layer that forms around the rubber part. and squeezes on to the slide pin. For sure a light coat of grease will keep rust away and give some lubrication.

The rear slide pins are metal going into the metal bore. The rubber par is just the dust barrier.

from @patil topic / for rear pins, correct orientation


So basically you putting even a coat of like copper grease it wouldn't make a problem.

If you were to put it on like a o-ring where are tight tolerances that would be an issue. ( Causes swelling - o-ring tight tolerances) And the issue with using like copper grease on rubber it will detirorate faster. Will it be in 5 years ofc not.

And the grease on outside like caliper bracket will wash out because we all use detergent base products to clean ouur cars, wheels etc. Ofc. it wont wash away on first few washes. But give it year or two

I agree with RUM4MO, you can get silicone grease/ paste. You can even use it on rubber seals around the doors to prevent freezing in winter time etc.

Don't sweat it most mechanic shops wont clean or grease anything , slap new parts and send it.

Ps: tap your socket with a hammer on the small m6 bolt that holds the disc so you dont strip the head.
Sorry guys for the long post

7 mm allen/ hex
13 mm spanner or a socket
15 mm spanner
screwdriver
tool for winding in the back calliper piston
tx30 torx - often for the m6 disc bolt.

[2226]

288 brakes ? What the hell.
You are the second guy I'm talking with and having 288 brakes on his Polo.

It was an option ? Mine are 256mm.

For 210 euros I have from ATE
-4 brakes discs
-4 ceramics brakes pads.

Some times VW parts are cheaper than on market, and some time you have to sell a part of your body for a stupid part made of plastic.

110hp 1.2tsi CJZD in my 2017 Cross Polo.

You'd think they would be amazing brakes, but I'm never confident using these. They feel weak or the ABS does some weird stuff. Modern brakes and I still double pump. Sometimes I think the 15mm raise ride height adds to the weak brake feel.

So many many years ago when I rolled in a Audi 200 I experienced similar issues with OE part pricing.
On that car the front discs are ventilated, but the rear was tiny solid disc. The rear discs cost a fortune at the dealer, but the larger front disc was a reasonable price.
Turns out the rear disc was easily available aftermarket, but that front discs was dealer only. Nobody carried that front discs aftermarket.
So I started thinking that this came down to how easy it was for VW/Audi to shift the products off the shelf. The ones that are easily available elsewhere would sit on those shelves forever. They had to make their money off less stock sold.
Experienced the same with other parts.

[RUM4MO]

My old 2000 VW Passat 4Motion only had 288mm front brakes, and they did not feel very good/strong in that car with its Audi 2.8V6 30V and quattro gearbox, AND steel front suspension uprights instead of the Audi A4 alloy ones, finding that my wife's next 2015 Polo had them at the front made me happier - quite a difference in weight and power between these 2 cars. I next revision of that 2000 VW Passat 4Motion did have slightly bigger front brakes though.