Hello.
Does anyone know the stock alternator output on a 2011 Polo 6R 1.2 TSI CBZB?
Roughly how much current do the stock electrical systems (ECU, lights, fans, etc.) draw while driving?
Asking because I'm planning on installing some new powerful audio equipment and I need to know if I need to upgrade the alternator.
Thanks
Stock alternator output & typical electrical draw
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2226
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Re: Stock alternator output & typical electrical draw
Should be 140A.
See if the alternator has a label.
No idea on current draw in normal operation. If the alternator doesn't have it, the battery will give it.
Question is how much will you amps draw? It's highly unlikely you'll be pulling their maximum rated power anyway. Music is dynamic afterall.
No need to jump the gun on upgrading. Upgrade if there's a obvious problem after installing. Save the money for your ear operation.
And use class D amps.
See if the alternator has a label.
No idea on current draw in normal operation. If the alternator doesn't have it, the battery will give it.
Question is how much will you amps draw? It's highly unlikely you'll be pulling their maximum rated power anyway. Music is dynamic afterall.
No need to jump the gun on upgrading. Upgrade if there's a obvious problem after installing. Save the money for your ear operation.
And use class D amps.
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ciclo
- Bling Bling Diamond Member
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- Joined: Sun Feb 24, 2013 10:20 am
- Drives: 6R'13/G7.5'19
- Location: Earth ♥, Spain.
- Contact:
Re: Stock alternator output & typical electrical draw
The alternator output of a 6R can be 90, 110, or 140 Amps, depending on the factory/original equipment.
More differentiating examples:
- With bi-xenon headlights, the 6R has a 140A alternator.
- With a start/stop system, the 6R has a 110A alternator.
- Without the above, the 6R has a 90A alternator.
A 90A alternator usually satisfies most electrical loads with enough margin.
It is necessary to have all possible electrical devices connected + some other device aftermarked to exceed 90A.
Peak loads are the important factor. Connecting all possible devices simultaneously is not a good idea if the alternator is not capable of supplying that load.
As mentioned
, wait to see what happens once the installation is finished. You can also use a clamp meter and do your tests/experiments, thus, if you experience problems due to the new installation, you can choose which alternator you need, although I would choose the 140A alternator without hesitation.
There is no exact science to this, each vehicle has its own particularities, so there are more factors to take into account (the state of the battery and/or electrical system, temperatures, blah, blah, blah...).
More differentiating examples:
- With bi-xenon headlights, the 6R has a 140A alternator.
- With a start/stop system, the 6R has a 110A alternator.
- Without the above, the 6R has a 90A alternator.
A 90A alternator usually satisfies most electrical loads with enough margin.
It is necessary to have all possible electrical devices connected + some other device aftermarked to exceed 90A.
Peak loads are the important factor. Connecting all possible devices simultaneously is not a good idea if the alternator is not capable of supplying that load.
As mentioned
, wait to see what happens once the installation is finished. You can also use a clamp meter and do your tests/experiments, thus, if you experience problems due to the new installation, you can choose which alternator you need, although I would choose the 140A alternator without hesitation.There is no exact science to this, each vehicle has its own particularities, so there are more factors to take into account (the state of the battery and/or electrical system, temperatures, blah, blah, blah...).