Scissa's 2015 Polo 1.2 TSI

[scissa]

I was thinking to renew the coils also, but everyone told me these coils are rock solid and unless something happens never change them.
I even heard someone made around 200k KMs with these, i think it will not be healthy.

I was thinking to buy some motorsport style HG coils since they are about 25% expensive, but i guess it will be waste of money at this point.

Remapping the car might be a great idea since a lot of people doing it and the charge pressure is only 0.6 bar with original tune AFAIK. CJZC and CJZD has no differences except the transmission (5sp vs 6sp) and bigger front brakes mechanically AFAIK.

But these undersized engines are prone to oil burning issues and LSPI. EA211 1.2 families have no problems except the oil burning and this makes me a bit reluctant to do remap.

I really hate the delay when pressing and leaving the gas pedal especially at the 1st gear and when driving a bit faster. The delay is literally 2 seconds when leaving the gas and pressing it again. I never race or push the car to limits but directness is important for me.

At 120K KMs, the timing belt will be changed. After the replacement i think i will remap the car but what are your opinions? Probably the coils will be changed at this stage but we will see.

[Le_Combattant]

Those engine does not burn oils.

The first marche from April 2014 yes, because the head of the engine had a defect from factory. The guide for the valves were too big.

But after the correction, no issue.

My engine has now, over 200000 km (from end of September 2014)
After 10000 km, the oil level does not move. Even after 15000 km, no need to add oil.

I did my oil change every 10000 km with 0W30 Shell 504/507.

Timing belt is original.

[2226]

Misfires are not necessarily spark plug related.
Misfire is detected by difference in engine speed at TDC and BDC.
I also have 30K+ misfires per cylinder. Plugs and coils were fine. Car ran fine, but at idle you feel a little skip.

I then ran CRC GDI IVD Intake Valve & Turbo Cleaner through the intake.
Misfires stopped. Car outran the ESC constantly and was a small pocket rocket. 1000km it calms down again.

My theory? Intake valves not fully closing due to carbon build.
The CRC does an amazing job of cleaning this up even if temporarily. Unfortunately for me right after I discovered this the local importer decided to stop the GDI IVD line and instead import an inferior tree-hugger product from the European market. This one is just naptha, no PEA compound as with the GDI IVD. Didn't work so well and now costs twice as much.

You might want to look into a intake carbon clean.
I need to do mine, but will do it myself. Need to get walnut shell blast media from the local jewellers (the gun shops went mad with their pricing over the last 2 years or so), and then then an adapter to fit the intake ports. There's one for the EA211 on Etsy, but can't bring mysel to buy right now given finances. I do want to look into making an 3D printer adapter, but that means pulling the intake to get a pattern and that's a pain with the cooling system attached to it.

[2226]

I was thinking to renew the coils also, but everyone told me these coils are rock solid and unless something happens never change them.
I even heard someone made around 200k KMs with these, i think it will not be healthy.

I was thinking to buy some motorsport style HG coils since they are about 25% expensive, but i guess it will be waste of money at this point.

Remapping the car might be a great idea since a lot of people doing it and the charge pressure is only 0.6 bar with original tune AFAIK. CJZC and CJZD has no differences except the transmission (5sp vs 6sp) and bigger front brakes mechanically AFAIK.

But these undersized engines are prone to oil burning issues and LSPI. EA211 1.2 families have no problems except the oil burning and this makes me a bit reluctant to do remap.

I really hate the delay when pressing and leaving the gas pedal especially at the 1st gear and when driving a bit faster. The delay is literally 2 seconds when leaving the gas and pressing it again. I never race or push the car to limits but directness is important for me.

At 120K KMs, the timing belt will be changed. After the replacement i think i will remap the car but what are your opinions? Probably the coils will be changed at this stage but we will see.

That pedal response is annoying.
You can try and pedal controller. I just don't like that they pull power from the sensor power line. I only know of one that has a dedicated power feed.

The other option is to change driving style.
When pulling away in 1st, pump the pedal a bit to raise the revs rather than feathering it. Then launch.
When shifting gear, don't lift the gas pedal at all. Just keep it steady. Most people drop the left foot and raise the right when shifting gear. Bang shift it!

The angle of the pedal is also annoying.
I found if I push my heal further in so that the pedal sits further down the sole of my foot then response is better.
Again, pedal controller will sort that.

[2226]

Those engine does not burn oils.

The first marche from April 2014 yes, because the head of the engine had a defect from factory. The guide for the valves were too big.

But after the correction, no issue.

My engine has now, over 200000 km (from end of September 2014)
After 10000 km, the oil level does not move. Even after 15000 km, no need to add oil.

I did my oil change every 10000 km with 0W30 Shell 504/507.

Timing belt is original.

I went back to Shell Helix Ultra Carbon Neutral 5W-40 now. It's the standard weight for CJZD here. Previously running 5W-30 expensive oil.
No major oil consumption with this Shell. Also nice I can get it over the counter if needed whereas the Ravenol I was using was always special order. Maybe running the expensive oil for past few years has done some really good cleaning. We will see over time. Guaranteed has not stopped consuming oil, but is consuming less.

My car is 2017 model so hopefully I don't have that valve guide issue you mention.

[Le_Combattant]

Misfires are not necessarily spark plug related.
Misfire is detected by difference in engine speed at TDC and BDC.
I also have 30K+ misfires per cylinder. Plugs and coils were fine. Car ran fine, but at idle you feel a little skip.

I then ran CRC GDI IVD Intake Valve & Turbo Cleaner through the intake.
Misfires stopped. Car outran the ESC constantly and was a small pocket rocket. 1000km it calms down again.

My theory? Intake valves not fully closing due to carbon build.
The CRC does an amazing job of cleaning this up even if temporarily. Unfortunately for me right after I discovered this the local importer decided to stop the GDI IVD line and instead import an inferior tree-hugger product from the European market. This one is just naptha, no PEA compound as with the GDI IVD. Didn't work so well and now costs twice as much.

You might want to look into a intake carbon clean.
I need to do mine, but will do it myself. Need to get walnut shell blast media from the local jewellers (the gun shops went mad with their pricing over the last 2 years or so), and then then an adapter to fit the intake ports. There's one for the EA211 on Etsy, but can't bring mysel to buy right now given finances. I do want to look into making an 3D printer adapter, but that means pulling the intake to get a pattern and that's a pain with the cooling system attached to it.

Carbon build up is an issue on EA211.

For info, It was my intake back in 2023 (?) with 150000 km on the clocks.

430315179_710997281171220_1826573365463641026_n.jpg (293.68 KiB) Viewed 6091 times

And after cleaning with dry ice (I called a company, specialized in engine cleaning):

429808806_364508369736179_6984392275769002795_n.jpg (196.3 KiB) Viewed 6091 times

[2226]

Dry ice ... interesting. For doing at home I think I'll stick with walnut media as I can re-use it.

See the shape of the intake port... that bump at the top? Look on the intake manifold where it matches that location. Has flat areas that could be injector ports. The intake is already set up for port injection.
One could modify these engines to have both direct injection and port injection. The intake needs to be drilled, but there is already mounting holes on the head that could hold a fuel rail.

[scissa]

Dry ice ... interesting. For doing at home I think I'll stick with walnut media as I can re-use it.

See the shape of the intake port... that bump at the top? Look on the intake manifold where it matches that location. Has flat areas that could be injector ports. The intake is already set up for port injection.
One could modify these engines to have both direct injection and port injection. The intake needs to be drilled, but there is already mounting holes on the head that could hold a fuel rail.

it seems like this cavity is intended for LPG / natural gas versions of 1.4 TSI engines. I have no direct information about this but it just looks like it.

[2226]

Didn't even know those were a thing. We never got those here; just the gasoline version.

Wouldn't this be an interesting upgrade:
https://www.cncinnovationsmy.com/produc ... nifold-wit

[scissa]

Throughout the owenrship, the car just suffered from very dirty engine bay. We didn't care this over the years but at some point it made me mad. So i started to clean everything one by one. After one week, the engine bay was dirty as before. So i started to find a solution and i found this product:

8.JPG (17.94 KiB) Viewed 6016 times

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Then the question came, where do i install these without any disturbances to the bonnet?
On top of the plastic grill was not a good idea since bonnet latch sits there.
Headlight brackets were not fine since there are holes on them and they have bolts.

"size 8" was used for headlight bracket and grille.
"size 4" was used for just the headlight cover only.
Otherwise the seal won't be established or the bonnet won't close.

So i installed the main one at a weird position and it worked (with included double sided tape).
I recommend this solution for everyone who encounters with same problem. It surely works.

20260104_163513.jpg (3.55 MiB) Viewed 6016 times

As you can see, they clearly block the dirt and seal properly when the bonnet is closed.
I am posting the other photos too, one thing i did not capture is the little "4 sized" seal was goes up to the end of the headlight, which means it extends to the fenders.

20260104_163455.jpg (2.6 MiB) Viewed 6016 times

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20260104_163522.jpg (1.96 MiB) Viewed 6016 times

20260104_163528.jpg (2.84 MiB) Viewed 6016 times

20260104_163540.jpg (2.45 MiB) Viewed 6016 times

[scissa]

Now, as you know, these cars were built in two plants: Spain and South Africa.
There is one easy way to understand where was your car produced.

The VAG Group uses this kind of VIN algorithm:
First, the country and brand identifier code, for our case it is "WVW"
Then, i guess special section comes and this section is nearly always "ZZZ" in VW cars which i believe means blank, maybe in expensive brands or trucks it can be other story but i have no idea.
Then, the chassis identifier comes. For this generation of polo, we get "6R" (then a "Z" again). For comparison, a golf might have "1J","1K", or a passat can have "3B" or "3C". This surely depends on the car.
Then we have the model year identifier at the 10th digit. For my case, it is "F" which stands for 2015. "A" stands for 2010 and "H" stands for 2017.
11TH digit is the plant number. For EU market, we encounter "Y" (Spain) and "U" (South Africa). For more information you can check the corresponding Wikipedia page. https://www.wikiwand.com/en/articles/Li ... _factories
The rest is serial number for the car and normally for other vehicles (especially japanese originated), lower number means early production but i have no idea about VAG cars.

Normally, there is no prodived VIN checker from VAG unlike Mercedes or BMW. Unless you have the Vehicle ID paper thingy in the user manual and at the trunk, there is no way to check for your equipment. Also, you can not check your build date, only you can estimate from the glasses and production of the parts.

But there is another way actually. By using a paid website called "partslink24", you can check your equipment number and many more. This applies for all cars actually which is very handy. Here is a screenshot for my vehicle information, in turkish.

partslink.JPG (39.51 KiB) Viewed 6011 times

Also, you can check the equipment info but sadly i have no document for that. But i am sharing the list of "factory" code thingies in my car. Normally, in vehicle factories, the vehicle is built with this equipment codes. A single vehicle might consist from 100 and more codes and these are not option codes. Without a single or wrong code, whole system will get confused. This is a bit easier in passenger cars but buses and trucks have crazy list of codes since they are more specific.

Here is my list of "equipment" codes:

Code: Select all

0A2 = 4 doors

0AQ = Front stabilizer

0EM = Installation differentiation for transmission MQ 200 vehicle components

0FB = Pamplona manufacturing sequence

0KA = Without stickers and badges

0N2 = Heavy-duty rear axle

0P2 = Exhaust tailpipe with trim

0PP = Nameplate set "BlueMotion"

0RA = Without ignition/starter switch locking system

0TD = Front and rear floor mats

0XA = Information kit in Turkish

0Y2 = Tropical zones

0YJ = Weight range 9 installation control only, no requirement forecast

1A2 = Fuel system for SI engine with direct injection (FSI)

1AZ = Electronic stabilization program (ESP)

1C1 = Antifreeze up to -25 degree celsius tolerance up to -30 degree C

1D0 = Without trailer hitch

1E1 = Activated carbon canister

1EX = Special identification plate for EC for M1 passenger vehicle

1G1 = Space-saving spare wheel

1JP = Rear shock absorption

1KT = Disc brakes, rear (Geomet D)

1L0 = Standard air cleaner

1N3 = Speed-related variable steering assist (Servotronic)

1NL = Covers for alloy wheels

1PE = Wheel bolts with anti-theft protection (unlockable)

1S1 = Tool kit and jack

1SA = Without additional front underbody guard

1T2 = Warning triangle

1W2 = Glove compartment cooling system

1X0 = Front wheel drive

1Y0 = Without differential lock

1Z2 = Increase in initial standard fuel filling

1ZG = Disc brakes, front (Geomet D)

2A0 = Without delivery equipment

2G7 = Filler neck module 1 with insert

2H0 = Without "drive select"

2JG = Body-colored bumpers

2KN = Labels/plates in Turkish and English

2UA = Standard design

2V1 = Dust and pollen filter

2WA = Without additional tires

2ZH = Leather multi-function steering wheel

3B4 = Child seat anchor for child seat system ISOFIX

3C7 = 3-point seat belt for center rear seat

3FA = Without roof insert (standard roof)

3GD = Plane rear cargo area

3H0 = Without backrest release for front seats

3J1 = Height-adjustable headrests for front seats

3L3 = Manual height adjustment for front seats

3M0 = Without special measures

3NC = Rear seat bench/backrest, split folding

3P1 = Bracket for first aid kit and warning triangle

3Q6 = Three rear headrests

3S0 = Without roof rails/roof load rack

3U1 = Foldable trunk cover

3W0 = Without additional noise suppression measures for passenger compartment

3ZB = 3-point seat belts, outer rear with ECE label

4A0 = Without seat heater

4AV = Door and side trim panel

4I2 = Radio remote controlled central locking operated from inside without safe lock

4KC = Side and rear windows in heat-insulatingglass

4L2 = Dipping breakaway interior rear view mirror

4N1 = Padded dashboard

4P2 = Rear floor panel module, type 3

4QV = 3-point seat belts with electric tensioner and height adjustment, front

4R3 = Power windows with comfort operation

4SD = Left vanity mirror, illuminated

4TV = Right vanity mirror, illuminated

4U5 = Luggage pockets on backrest

4UF = Drivers and front passenger air bag with front passenger air bag deactivation

4X0 = Without side air bag

5D1 = Carrier frequency 433.92 MHz-434.42 Mhz

5K7 = Transport protection film (minimum protection) with additional transport protection measures

5RQ = Right exterior mirror: convex

5SL = Left exterior mirror: aspherical

6A0 = Without fire extinguisher

6E1 = Front center armrest

6FF = Body-colored exterior mirror housings and various add-on parts

6K0 = without Front Assist/without city automatic emergency braking

6KA = Radiator grille

6NA = Unsplit molding roof liner

6P1 = License plate bracket rear (ECE)

6PC = Leather hand brake lever handle

6Q2 = Leather gearshift knob/handle

6R1 = Leatherette gearshift boot

6T0 = Without interior light in footwell

6U1 = Additional dust seal outside

6W1 = License plate bracket front (large)

6XD = Exterior mirrors: electrically adjustable/heated

7AA = Electronic vehicle immobilization device

7E0 = W/o heat accumulator/auxiliary heating

7K1 = Tire pressure warning light

7L6 = Start/stop system with regenerative braking

7M5 = Without protective film for scuff plate

7MM = Emission standard EU6 plus

7P0 = Without lumbar support in seat backrests

7Q0 = Without navigation device

7QA = Without CD/DVD for navigation

7X0 = Without park distance control

7ZL = Vehicle class differentiation 6C0- for build status Europe

8FA = Without second battery

8GU = Alternator 140 A

8ID = Halogen twin headlights

8K1 = Separate daytime running lights

8M1 = Rear window wiper and washer system with intermittent control

8N4 = Windshield wiper intermittent control with potentiometer (four speeds)

8Q1 = Headlight-range adjustment

8RL = 6 speakers (passive)

8S3 = Additional reading lights rear

8SG = Standard taillight assemblies (type 2)

8T0 = Without cruise control system (CCS)

8TC = Rear fog light for driving on the right

8W0 = Without washer fluid level indicator

8WA = Without front fog light

8X0 = Without headlight washer system

8Y1 = Two-tone horn

8Z6 = Hot country

8ZH = Antenna for AM/FM reception, "diversity"

9AB = Manually controlled air conditioning

9E1 = Luggage compartment lighting

9JD = Smoking package, ashtray front

9P3 = Seat belt reminder, electric contact in buckle

9S5 = Multi-function display/on-board computer"Medium"

9T0 = Without heated washer nozzles

9W0 = W/o car phone preparation/installation

9WC = Without "Multimedia" in vehicle

A8M = Executive comfort equipment

AV1 = Driving on the right

B20 = Type approval Turkey

B3D = Component parts set, complying with vehicle type for Turkey, various parts

C24 = Operating permit, alteration

CU8 = Alloy wheels 6J x 15

DB7 = 4-cylinder gas. engine 1.2 l/66 kW TSI Base engine is: TW0

E0A = No special edition

EA0 = Without subsequent warranty

EF0 = Without ECO function

EL0 = Without online services

EM0 = Without Rest Assist

ER1 = Regional code " ECE " for radio

F0A = No special purpose vehicle, standard equipment

FC0 = Without customized installation

G0C = 5-speed manual transmission

G72 = Front shock absorption

H8D = Tires 185/60 R15 H

I7Y = MIB-G Entry Plus (Gen2)

J0S = Battery 320A (59Ah)

K8G = Hatchback

KA0 = Without camera systems/accident sensors

KK1 = Refrigerant R134a

KL0 = Standard license plate lighting

KN1 = With trim element

L0L = Left-hand drive vehicle

L38 = Suspension range 38 installation control only, no requirement forecast

N0J = Knit cut pile seat covering

NY0 = Standard battery/alternator capacity

PH4 = Climatic (Manual AC)

PJ3 = Tosa Rims

PJZ = Steel spare wheel

PU2 = MFSW

Q1A = Standard front seats

QG1 = Service interval prolongation

QH0 = Without voice control

QI4 = Service indicator 15000 km or 1 year ( fix )

QJ1 = Chrome work package

QN0 = Without drawers under front seats

QV0 = W/o TV reception/digital radio reception

TP1 = 4-cylinder gasoline engine 1.2 l Unit 04E.B

U0C = Instrument insert with tachometer clock and km/h speedometer

UF0 = Without electric interface

UG1 = Hill hold control

V0A = Tires w/o specification of tire brand

VF0 = Standard pedal cluster

W4B = Power Windows

ZBB = Composition Colour Radio

Those codes are intended for production and end user has no relations with these. But they are very helpful if you want to have an idea what are you dealing with. It is sad that "VAG" does not give us enough information about our vehicles, at least i want to know the manuf. date of my vehicle.

And since my vehicle is pretty much lacking most of the equipment, i wonder a fully spec'd vehicles equipment list even though they are pretty rare.

[2226]

Now, as you know, these cars were built in two plants: Spain and South Africa.
There is one easy way to understand where was your car produced.

The VAG Group uses this kind of VIN algorithm:
First, the country and brand identifier code, for our case it is "WVW"
Then, i guess special section comes and this section is nearly always "ZZZ" in VW cars which i believe means blank, maybe in expensive brands or trucks it can be other story but i have no idea.
Then, the chassis identifier comes. For this generation of polo, we get "6R" (then a "Z" again). For comparison, a golf might have "1J","1K", or a passat can have "3B" or "3C". This surely depends on the car.
Then we have the model year identifier at the 10th digit. For my case, it is "F" which stands for 2015. "A" stands for 2010 and "H" stands for 2017.
11TH digit is the plant number. For EU market, we encounter "Y" (Spain) and "U" (South Africa). For more information you can check the corresponding Wikipedia page. https://www.wikiwand.com/en/articles/Li ... _factories
The rest is serial number for the car and normally for other vehicles (especially japanese originated), lower number means early production but i have no idea about VAG cars.

Normally, there is no prodived VIN checker from VAG unlike Mercedes or BMW. Unless you have the Vehicle ID paper thingy in the user manual and at the trunk, there is no way to check for your equipment. Also, you can not check your build date, only you can estimate from the glasses and production of the parts.

But there is another way actually. By using a paid website called "partslink24", you can check your equipment number and many more. This applies for all cars actually which is very handy. Here is a screenshot for my vehicle information, in turkish.
partslink.JPG

Also, you can check the equipment info but sadly i have no document for that. But i am sharing the list of "factory" code thingies in my car. Normally, in vehicle factories, the vehicle is built with this equipment codes. A single vehicle might consist from 100 and more codes and these are not option codes. Without a single or wrong code, whole system will get confused. This is a bit easier in passenger cars but buses and trucks have crazy list of codes since they are more specific.

Here is my list of "equipment" codes:

Code: Select all

0A2 = 4 doors

0AQ = Front stabilizer

0EM = Installation differentiation for transmission MQ 200 vehicle components

0FB = Pamplona manufacturing sequence

0KA = Without stickers and badges

0N2 = Heavy-duty rear axle

0P2 = Exhaust tailpipe with trim

0PP = Nameplate set "BlueMotion"

0RA = Without ignition/starter switch locking system

0TD = Front and rear floor mats

0XA = Information kit in Turkish

0Y2 = Tropical zones

0YJ = Weight range 9 installation control only, no requirement forecast

1A2 = Fuel system for SI engine with direct injection (FSI)

1AZ = Electronic stabilization program (ESP)

1C1 = Antifreeze up to -25 degree celsius tolerance up to -30 degree C

1D0 = Without trailer hitch

1E1 = Activated carbon canister

1EX = Special identification plate for EC for M1 passenger vehicle

1G1 = Space-saving spare wheel

1JP = Rear shock absorption

1KT = Disc brakes, rear (Geomet D)

1L0 = Standard air cleaner

1N3 = Speed-related variable steering assist (Servotronic)

1NL = Covers for alloy wheels

1PE = Wheel bolts with anti-theft protection (unlockable)

1S1 = Tool kit and jack

1SA = Without additional front underbody guard

1T2 = Warning triangle

1W2 = Glove compartment cooling system

1X0 = Front wheel drive

1Y0 = Without differential lock

1Z2 = Increase in initial standard fuel filling

1ZG = Disc brakes, front (Geomet D)

2A0 = Without delivery equipment

2G7 = Filler neck module 1 with insert

2H0 = Without "drive select"

2JG = Body-colored bumpers

2KN = Labels/plates in Turkish and English

2UA = Standard design

2V1 = Dust and pollen filter

2WA = Without additional tires

2ZH = Leather multi-function steering wheel

3B4 = Child seat anchor for child seat system ISOFIX

3C7 = 3-point seat belt for center rear seat

3FA = Without roof insert (standard roof)

3GD = Plane rear cargo area

3H0 = Without backrest release for front seats

3J1 = Height-adjustable headrests for front seats

3L3 = Manual height adjustment for front seats

3M0 = Without special measures

3NC = Rear seat bench/backrest, split folding

3P1 = Bracket for first aid kit and warning triangle

3Q6 = Three rear headrests

3S0 = Without roof rails/roof load rack

3U1 = Foldable trunk cover

3W0 = Without additional noise suppression measures for passenger compartment

3ZB = 3-point seat belts, outer rear with ECE label

4A0 = Without seat heater

4AV = Door and side trim panel

4I2 = Radio remote controlled central locking operated from inside without safe lock

4KC = Side and rear windows in heat-insulatingglass

4L2 = Dipping breakaway interior rear view mirror

4N1 = Padded dashboard

4P2 = Rear floor panel module, type 3

4QV = 3-point seat belts with electric tensioner and height adjustment, front

4R3 = Power windows with comfort operation

4SD = Left vanity mirror, illuminated

4TV = Right vanity mirror, illuminated

4U5 = Luggage pockets on backrest

4UF = Drivers and front passenger air bag with front passenger air bag deactivation

4X0 = Without side air bag

5D1 = Carrier frequency 433.92 MHz-434.42 Mhz

5K7 = Transport protection film (minimum protection) with additional transport protection measures

5RQ = Right exterior mirror: convex

5SL = Left exterior mirror: aspherical

6A0 = Without fire extinguisher

6E1 = Front center armrest

6FF = Body-colored exterior mirror housings and various add-on parts

6K0 = without Front Assist/without city automatic emergency braking

6KA = Radiator grille

6NA = Unsplit molding roof liner

6P1 = License plate bracket rear (ECE)

6PC = Leather hand brake lever handle

6Q2 = Leather gearshift knob/handle

6R1 = Leatherette gearshift boot

6T0 = Without interior light in footwell

6U1 = Additional dust seal outside

6W1 = License plate bracket front (large)

6XD = Exterior mirrors: electrically adjustable/heated

7AA = Electronic vehicle immobilization device

7E0 = W/o heat accumulator/auxiliary heating

7K1 = Tire pressure warning light

7L6 = Start/stop system with regenerative braking

7M5 = Without protective film for scuff plate

7MM = Emission standard EU6 plus

7P0 = Without lumbar support in seat backrests

7Q0 = Without navigation device

7QA = Without CD/DVD for navigation

7X0 = Without park distance control

7ZL = Vehicle class differentiation 6C0- for build status Europe

8FA = Without second battery

8GU = Alternator 140 A

8ID = Halogen twin headlights

8K1 = Separate daytime running lights

8M1 = Rear window wiper and washer system with intermittent control

8N4 = Windshield wiper intermittent control with potentiometer (four speeds)

8Q1 = Headlight-range adjustment

8RL = 6 speakers (passive)

8S3 = Additional reading lights rear

8SG = Standard taillight assemblies (type 2)

8T0 = Without cruise control system (CCS)

8TC = Rear fog light for driving on the right

8W0 = Without washer fluid level indicator

8WA = Without front fog light

8X0 = Without headlight washer system

8Y1 = Two-tone horn

8Z6 = Hot country

8ZH = Antenna for AM/FM reception, "diversity"

9AB = Manually controlled air conditioning

9E1 = Luggage compartment lighting

9JD = Smoking package, ashtray front

9P3 = Seat belt reminder, electric contact in buckle

9S5 = Multi-function display/on-board computer"Medium"

9T0 = Without heated washer nozzles

9W0 = W/o car phone preparation/installation

9WC = Without "Multimedia" in vehicle

A8M = Executive comfort equipment

AV1 = Driving on the right

B20 = Type approval Turkey

B3D = Component parts set, complying with vehicle type for Turkey, various parts

C24 = Operating permit, alteration

CU8 = Alloy wheels 6J x 15

DB7 = 4-cylinder gas. engine 1.2 l/66 kW TSI Base engine is: TW0

E0A = No special edition

EA0 = Without subsequent warranty

EF0 = Without ECO function

EL0 = Without online services

EM0 = Without Rest Assist

ER1 = Regional code " ECE " for radio

F0A = No special purpose vehicle, standard equipment

FC0 = Without customized installation

G0C = 5-speed manual transmission

G72 = Front shock absorption

H8D = Tires 185/60 R15 H

I7Y = MIB-G Entry Plus (Gen2)

J0S = Battery 320A (59Ah)

K8G = Hatchback

KA0 = Without camera systems/accident sensors

KK1 = Refrigerant R134a

KL0 = Standard license plate lighting

KN1 = With trim element

L0L = Left-hand drive vehicle

L38 = Suspension range 38 installation control only, no requirement forecast

N0J = Knit cut pile seat covering

NY0 = Standard battery/alternator capacity

PH4 = Climatic (Manual AC)

PJ3 = Tosa Rims

PJZ = Steel spare wheel

PU2 = MFSW

Q1A = Standard front seats

QG1 = Service interval prolongation

QH0 = Without voice control

QI4 = Service indicator 15000 km or 1 year ( fix )

QJ1 = Chrome work package

QN0 = Without drawers under front seats

QV0 = W/o TV reception/digital radio reception

TP1 = 4-cylinder gasoline engine 1.2 l Unit 04E.B

U0C = Instrument insert with tachometer clock and km/h speedometer

UF0 = Without electric interface

UG1 = Hill hold control

V0A = Tires w/o specification of tire brand

VF0 = Standard pedal cluster

W4B = Power Windows

ZBB = Composition Colour Radio

Those codes are intended for production and end user has no relations with these. But they are very helpful if you want to have an idea what are you dealing with. It is sad that "VAG" does not give us enough information about our vehicles, at least i want to know the manuf. date of my vehicle.

And since my vehicle is pretty much lacking most of the equipment, i wonder a fully spec'd vehicles equipment list even though they are pretty rare.

If your VIN says South Africa and you have problems... my apologies.

Also,

https://igorweb.org/equidec.aspx

Useful for option decoding, but I have found it to be incomplete.
Nobody has a complete set.
Also the codes, especially for suspension, is super vague.

[2226]

Nice idea on the rubber 'D' seals.
How dusty does Turkey get?

I have cleaned my engine bay a couple of times, but the thing never really gets too dirty. Only real problem spots is the frame rails under the battery, etc.

I still want to do a proper clean from underneath and then apply Koch-Chemie MP (Motor plast) which will help make cleaning easier. Also protect engine from external corrosion.

I've someone bring a Polo around here once with a blown head gasket and that thing's engine bay was a complete mess. Maybe people just drive more than me.

[2226]

Also, don't worry about your engine bay, it is spotless...

Unlike this:

mud2.jpeg (230.69 KiB) Viewed 5986 times

That was probably 2 years ago and I'm still finding bits of mud on the car.

[scissa]

Nice idea on the rubber 'D' seals.
How dusty does Turkey get?

I have cleaned my engine bay a couple of times, but the thing never really gets too dirty. Only real problem spots is the frame rails under the battery, etc.

I still want to do a proper clean from underneath and then apply Koch-Chemie MP (Motor plast) which will help make cleaning easier. Also protect engine from external corrosion.

I've someone bring a Polo around here once with a blown head gasket and that thing's engine bay was a complete mess. Maybe people just drive more than me.

It pretty much depends on the region you live. I live southwestern and the weather is usually clean here, but since i am working in other cities, the story is different. The central turkey lacks colour "green" and it feels like sahara desert for me. Previous week i travelled there, drove 200 km city (sometimes with esp off ) in snowy and rainy weather, got a speeding ticket because i have exceeded 30% of legal limit , so yeah, you can see it is very dirty now, even my coolant expansion tank looks yellow i don't know why but i will clean it for sure.