Polo 1.2 6R CGP Engine rebuild

[UKWaffles]

Hi,
Hoping someone can save me a little here, doing a polo 1.2 09 model CGP engine rebuild.

Have most of the bits back on. But I didn't / forgot to take note of the camshaft carrier order.

Took it off and bar the front cap / carrier the 3 similar ones I can't remember their order. There any information on this? Can't seem to find solid information on their order I assume it matters so.
Thanks

[2226]

What are those small notches in them? Did you put them there?
One has 2 notches, the other has 3. Might be indicating the order.

[UKWaffles]

What are those small notches in them? Did you put them there?
One has 2 notches, the other has 3. Might be indicating the order.

Well s**t, I didn't even see those.

Quite Possible! as in that position the cams do feel the best overall when attempting to spin them all over. I didn't add those so they must be from when they were machined / installed from factory.

[ciclo]

Just for general information, those camshaft bearing caps are line-bored together with the cylinder head at the factory, so they cannot be replaced individually (no part numbers in ETKA).

I guess those notches/lines are your lifesaver, the generic VAG order from Timing Chain to Gearbox is:
1 Notch = Cap 1 (Timing)
2 Notches = Cap 2 (Middle)
3 Notches = Cap 3 (Gearbox)

You must NOT flip them 180° or the camshafts will seize.
It is possible they have small casted arrows... look closely for any small arrows or letters (like 'E' or 'I') on the aluminum body.
If you find them and want, please, post here the images so we can help you double-check the exact orientation before you torque them down.

[UKWaffles]

Just for general information, those camshaft bearing caps are line-bored together with the cylinder head at the factory, so they cannot be replaced individually (no part numbers in ETKA).

I guess those notches/lines are your lifesaver, the generic VAG order from Timing Chain to Gearbox is:
1 Notch = Cap 1 (Timing)
2 Notches = Cap 2 (Middle)
3 Notches = Cap 3 (Gearbox)

You must NOT flip them 180° or the camshafts will seize.
It is possible they have small casted arrows... look closely for any small arrows or letters (like 'E' or 'I') on the aluminum body.
If you find them and want, please, post here the images so we can help you double-check the exact orientation before you torque them down.

Yea I know they are line bored which is why I have been pulling my hair out!.

Totally forgot to take note of where they where before. Going off the notches I have them in the correct chain to gearbox order now, just need to make sure they are on the correct way around. I based it off the document you attached as it appeared the rear part of the caps with the nib was on the rear of the fitting position.

So seems I have been saved but this, I will add some pictures once I clean it all up and before they are torqued down

Thanks

[UKWaffles]

Anyone know the part numbers for the camshaft carrier bolts?

Want to renew the whole set

[2226]

https://webautocats.com/etka/volkswagen/po/672/103035

Not sure which ones.
Parts 10 and 11 in that diagram. Judging by part 9 which is would include 10 and 11.

Bolts from the dealership is always a pricey visit down here.

[UKWaffles]

Thanks Got the bolts on order now, hope to get it running soon.

Need to double check the torque on the cam caps too

[UKWaffles]

So getting to the end of the rebuild process

I am seeing 2 Torque settings for the crankshaflt bolt.

90 NM + 90 Degree Turn or

150 NM + 180 Degree Turn

Not sure which one to use as I was able to undo it solo when it came off, so I doubit it was the latter as it seems a bit high off this site:

https://workshop-manuals.com/volkswagen ... ain_drive/

I have this part for the bolt the non drilled one: N90987301 '

So feel inclined to lean towards the 90 NM and 90 turn?

Thanks

[ciclo]

This is the latest edition I downloaded from erWin a year ago or less.






If I recall correctly, that 150 Nm + Xº torque specification is very common for these engines.

[UKWaffles]

yikes, 150 nm + 180 sounds crazy.

I am renewing the bolt as it asks for so I guess that is what I will aim for, need to make sure my torque wrench goes that high.

Add my locking tool and get someone else on the counter hold job I guess.

[2226]

Y'all might need a big boy torque wrench...

torque.jpeg (43.78 KiB) Viewed 109 times

Some days I wonder why I even have these tools.
Oh yes ... 350Nm - 450Nm torque spec on Audi MC engine crank bolt.
Reverse thread as well.

Ravenol 1L for scale.

crank-pulley-torque-wrench-001.jpg (258.05 KiB) Viewed 109 times

[UKWaffles]

Y'all might need a big boy torque wrench...

torque.jpeg



Some days I wonder why I even have these tools.
Oh yes ... 350Nm - 450Nm torque spec on Audi MC engine crank bolt.
Reverse thread as well.

Ravenol 1L for scale.

crank-pulley-torque-wrench-001.jpg

Yea, I might need to I very much doubt mine can go to 150......then the 180 degrees as well! I feel some tools will die during this torquing procdure...

[2226]

Nah, tools will survive.
Invest in a good breaker bar though.

150Nm is not much really. I mean, the wheel bolts are 110Nm.
It's that 180 degree that'll get you.

I still need one of these indicators:

61nV2GAJSXL._AC_SL1000_.jpg (47.61 KiB) Viewed 77 times

Good to have in the tool box since most things on these cars are torque-to-yield/stretch bolts.

Mine is just a 150Nm. Finding over that back in the day wasn't easy.
Today it's easy to find 210Nm units for around 30 Euro.
No need to go with big name brands.The smaller brands work perfectly fine.
Just don't get total no-name items.
Even my off-brand 150Nm which must be going on 20+ years is doing ok and it's seen some stuff.

I tend to avoid a torque wrench's min and max limits.

I can do with a replacement. Mine works just fine, but the locking knob is a problem.
I like the more modern adjuster like the 2nd from the right in my photo.

Also, only 1 of my basic torque wrench was purchased new.
The rest were classified ad finds. The 3/4" monster was an absolute lucky find. Paid almost nothing for it and for some reason it's worth something today. It's only ever tightened 1 bolt since I've had it.

[ciclo]

Don't worry about the 150 Nm + 180° torque specification, you can apply it without problems with your strength or weight, the bolt's galvanized coating and the oiling —as indicated in the manual— make achieving this torque very easy. The bolt will turn smoothly.
With a little ingenuity, you don't need a second mechanic to handle the pulley locking tool. it just depends on the specific workspace setup.