Speedlaw wrote:Wrighty, you've lost me;
The camber/caster and tracking is set at the factory's recommended values, which is fine - even for a lowered car. You can even ask to have them (KwikFit, etc) to adjust it to your own wishes. I had them set my car's camber slightly more negative than they normally would.
Apart from that, I don't get how you could get the correct camber/tracking with marking the top of the suspension. It's the bottom end, that bolts to the hub assembly, that's the problem to get right.

Saved me posting the same thing
No adjustment at the top IMHO
Two bolt set up on the hub to bottom shock mount allows adjustment to camber.
Lowering without any adjustment results in an increase in camber
ie wheels look like
/-------\
So you need to pull the top of the wheel out to restore it to
I------I
You can get it pretty close with a decent spirit level accross the tyre faces but I'd get a garage to check it and make any final adjustments as neccessary - main reason being it only needs to be slightly out to result in an increase in tyre wear and that gets expensive
A) /------\
Will lead to an increase in tyre wear on the inside edge of the tyre
B) \------/
will lead to and increase in tyre wear on the outside edge of the tyre
Both situations are not good for handling although A will be better than B