Had few bits done 2 my car over past 2 days....
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heartagram
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carmadaaron
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Karl_CLCoupe
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Tahrey1043
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Low- Phat- Spread
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bstardchild
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nope - should be able to log in on your old details from anywhere in the world.....Low- Phat- Spread wrote:Nope u r wrong!!
I got a new comp, and changed internet companies aswell as getting broadband, so had a new e-mail address: so I had 2 re-register didnt I?! Tried 2 keep my username as near 2 what it was before
your new email address you can just edit in your profile
All IMHO
karl yep can fit you a bee sting if want i will be at the shows next year with low phat. Why dont you do it your self ? its easy to do you need some new sharp drill bits cos they will drill easy meaning you dont have to put much pressure on the drill so you dont buckle the roof. Start wit a 4mm drill then a 7mm then finish of with a 10.2 (thats what size i had to do acording to the instructions on the box but different make arials my vary) Put some paint on the hole to seal it then fit the arial(one 8mm nut)then run the wire down the nsr pillar where there is even a real handy hole alraedy there to run it down whitch comes out near the rear light! there is a strengenther bar that is that run across the roof and you dont want to drill into that . Can give you measurements where to drill if you wana do it .
Karlos >
Fitting a Bee-Sting aerial isn't a quick job, so make sure you've got a few hours spare before you start!
You will need : the new aerial (the choice is yours, but I just got a £10 cheapy from Halfords and it's been fine for me), aerial extension cable (possibly - depending on the aerial kit you choose), grommet or proper VAG wing-aerial blanking 'bung', a tape measure, hairdryer, some masking tape, a drill and suitable drill bit (refer to aerial manufacturers' instructions for the size of hole you'll need to drill), contact adhesive, silicone sealant (like the stuff you use round baths), Hammerite-type paint ..... and patience!
Firstly, you need to remove the old wing-mount aerial, which is simply a case of removing the inner arch and then releasing the aerial unit and pulling the old lead back through the bulkhead. The only thing to watch is when you undo the locking nut on the aerial - make sure the aerial unit itself DOES NOT turn, as this will buckle the wing (and that's from personal experience! OUCH!)
Once this is done, simply fit the grommet/bung to cover the hole (touching up any bare metal first)
Onto the Bee-Sting............
The most important thing to do is make sure you measure and mark the area where you'll be fitting the aerial, making sure it's central (obviously), but more importantly, that the hatch opens fully WITHOUT CATCHING THE AERIAL and that there's no internal obstructions (ie framework) in the area you intend to drill. On the GT, and I'm sure this is the case for all 2F Coupe 'shells, the internal strengtheners are too far forward to cause any real concern - unless, of course, you want to mount your aerial further forward than I did! Once you've got a reasonable picture of where you want to mount the aerial, roughly mark the spot with a bit of tape.
Now remove the boot seal, starting from one end, until it's free from the top edge of the bodywork - you can remove it completely, but as long as the top and one side is removed, that should be fine. You can now start to work on freeing the rooflining - this is where the hairdryer comes in! Heat the glued edge until the glue softens, then prise it back a little at a time - don't rush this bit, as the lining WILL RIP! Once you've done this, you will notice that the rooflining is held in place by a metal rod - this can simply be unclipped along its length and the rooflining will drop enough to give you room to work. If it hasn't already fallen off of its own accord, you'll also need to pull the felt away from the 'shell where you intend to drill.
Having done all this, it's time to measure up again. Now you'll have to benefit of seeing any potential obstructions, so you can position the aerial to avoid these. Once you're happy with where you want to drill the hole STOP!!!
Now, take 5 minutes and then measure up again - and again. Be absolutely 100% sure you've measured everything correctly then mark where you want the hole to go by (firstly) putting a piece of masking tape on the roof and then marking it with whatever (probably sweat and/or blood at this point!). The masking tape is important, as it will help prevent the drill bit from slipping once you start drilling.
OK, this is the point of no return....using a small (2/3mm) bit, make a 'pilot' hole in the roof of your pride and joy - don't press TOO hard, as the roof may buckle - just take your time.....Once you've done this, survey the damage .....and then drill the 'proper' hole for the aerial. Remove any 'flash' from around the edge of the hole, then treat the areas of exposed metal with the 'Hammerite' paint to prevent it rusting. Test fit the aerial base and, once you're happy, apply some sealant around the outside of the hole and refit the base. The sealant should now ensure the base is watertight from the elements! Secure the base according to the instructions, then apply some more sealant to the inside of the roof - just to be on the safe side.
Now the aerial base is safely on, there's just the small matter of running the cable to the front of the car. With patience, it's possible to feed the cable through the 'A' pillar by the hatch and then run it under the carpet alongside the thick loom from the rear cluster. To do this, you'll have to remove the rear interior side trim and plastic sill guard, so the cable runs cleanly to the front of the car - if you have to use a cable extension, make sure the join is well protected and secured by using some insulating tape or similar.....
Once the fitting is complete (and working), test the 'watertightness' of the new aerial, by pouring some water around the base - if it leaks, put some more sealant on, if not, well great!
Now it's time to refit the rooflining. Coat the edges of the rooflining and bodywork with contact adhesive and, when it's tacky, pull the lining back onto the 'shell a little at a time, making sure you pull it tight whilst avoiding wrinkles. Again, take your time with this. If you do make a mistake here, simply undo the lining and start again (another reason for using contact adhesive over 'superglue' - you get the chance to have more than one go at it!). Once this is done, refit the boot seal, again being careful to avoid wrinkling the lining.......
Stand back and enjoy!
For a lovely picture to go with the text visit www.polo-gt.co.uk
Fitting a Bee-Sting aerial isn't a quick job, so make sure you've got a few hours spare before you start!
You will need : the new aerial (the choice is yours, but I just got a £10 cheapy from Halfords and it's been fine for me), aerial extension cable (possibly - depending on the aerial kit you choose), grommet or proper VAG wing-aerial blanking 'bung', a tape measure, hairdryer, some masking tape, a drill and suitable drill bit (refer to aerial manufacturers' instructions for the size of hole you'll need to drill), contact adhesive, silicone sealant (like the stuff you use round baths), Hammerite-type paint ..... and patience!
Firstly, you need to remove the old wing-mount aerial, which is simply a case of removing the inner arch and then releasing the aerial unit and pulling the old lead back through the bulkhead. The only thing to watch is when you undo the locking nut on the aerial - make sure the aerial unit itself DOES NOT turn, as this will buckle the wing (and that's from personal experience! OUCH!)
Once this is done, simply fit the grommet/bung to cover the hole (touching up any bare metal first)
Onto the Bee-Sting............
The most important thing to do is make sure you measure and mark the area where you'll be fitting the aerial, making sure it's central (obviously), but more importantly, that the hatch opens fully WITHOUT CATCHING THE AERIAL and that there's no internal obstructions (ie framework) in the area you intend to drill. On the GT, and I'm sure this is the case for all 2F Coupe 'shells, the internal strengtheners are too far forward to cause any real concern - unless, of course, you want to mount your aerial further forward than I did! Once you've got a reasonable picture of where you want to mount the aerial, roughly mark the spot with a bit of tape.
Now remove the boot seal, starting from one end, until it's free from the top edge of the bodywork - you can remove it completely, but as long as the top and one side is removed, that should be fine. You can now start to work on freeing the rooflining - this is where the hairdryer comes in! Heat the glued edge until the glue softens, then prise it back a little at a time - don't rush this bit, as the lining WILL RIP! Once you've done this, you will notice that the rooflining is held in place by a metal rod - this can simply be unclipped along its length and the rooflining will drop enough to give you room to work. If it hasn't already fallen off of its own accord, you'll also need to pull the felt away from the 'shell where you intend to drill.
Having done all this, it's time to measure up again. Now you'll have to benefit of seeing any potential obstructions, so you can position the aerial to avoid these. Once you're happy with where you want to drill the hole STOP!!!
Now, take 5 minutes and then measure up again - and again. Be absolutely 100% sure you've measured everything correctly then mark where you want the hole to go by (firstly) putting a piece of masking tape on the roof and then marking it with whatever (probably sweat and/or blood at this point!). The masking tape is important, as it will help prevent the drill bit from slipping once you start drilling.
OK, this is the point of no return....using a small (2/3mm) bit, make a 'pilot' hole in the roof of your pride and joy - don't press TOO hard, as the roof may buckle - just take your time.....Once you've done this, survey the damage .....and then drill the 'proper' hole for the aerial. Remove any 'flash' from around the edge of the hole, then treat the areas of exposed metal with the 'Hammerite' paint to prevent it rusting. Test fit the aerial base and, once you're happy, apply some sealant around the outside of the hole and refit the base. The sealant should now ensure the base is watertight from the elements! Secure the base according to the instructions, then apply some more sealant to the inside of the roof - just to be on the safe side.
Now the aerial base is safely on, there's just the small matter of running the cable to the front of the car. With patience, it's possible to feed the cable through the 'A' pillar by the hatch and then run it under the carpet alongside the thick loom from the rear cluster. To do this, you'll have to remove the rear interior side trim and plastic sill guard, so the cable runs cleanly to the front of the car - if you have to use a cable extension, make sure the join is well protected and secured by using some insulating tape or similar.....
Once the fitting is complete (and working), test the 'watertightness' of the new aerial, by pouring some water around the base - if it leaks, put some more sealant on, if not, well great!
Now it's time to refit the rooflining. Coat the edges of the rooflining and bodywork with contact adhesive and, when it's tacky, pull the lining back onto the 'shell a little at a time, making sure you pull it tight whilst avoiding wrinkles. Again, take your time with this. If you do make a mistake here, simply undo the lining and start again (another reason for using contact adhesive over 'superglue' - you get the chance to have more than one go at it!). Once this is done, refit the boot seal, again being careful to avoid wrinkling the lining.......
Stand back and enjoy!
For a lovely picture to go with the text visit www.polo-gt.co.uk
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bstardchild
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