Removing front shocks

[Gillen]

How the hell do I get them ou tof the bottom 'seat'? All bolts are undone, but I can't get them out and I'm running out of time!

[Gillen]

I've also pulled that hook like piece of metal out of the way which is on the bottom at the back

[oliverpologti]

that hook that you have pulled back centralise and lock your shocks in position when i swapped mine the took some persuading to get them to budge but eventually they started to move after plenty of lubrication drivers side is nails to get out because of driveshaft being larger

so it limits the movement you can pull the suspension down one you done it once though its easy lol

[Gillen]

Going to have to leave the bastard thing on axle stands over the weekend now, unbelievably annoyed! Got to get lifts to work all weekend now

I'm actually on the verge of .

I don't see how the drivers side one can come out, there is absolutely no room!

I got the passengers side out eventually, but can't tighten the nut at the top of the damper because the damper itself spins when i do. I've put an allen key in the top and tightened with a spanner as much as i can, but now there is no room left for the spanner to get any grip. I've also tried to use mole grips and use the allen key to tighten, no good. I'm running out of ideas!

ALSO, I can't get the damper to fit back in to the 'hole' in the car, where you hook it in to place.

The most annoying thing is, it now isn't driveable to take it to a garage to fix it

ANY help would be really appreciated

[RUM4MO]

Right, you really should buy a Haynes manual for guidance and torques - and which nuts bolts not to re-use. Having said that, after you have unbolted the strut clamping bolt (M14 SPLINE head), idealy you should use the correct "hub expander" to open up the clamped bit just enough to ease the strut up - or hub down - this copy of a VAG KLANN tool and can be bought via Halfords - its a Laser Hand Tools item - have a look on their site for p/n. The driver's side really needs the drive shaft taken out of the hub - an easy job if you buy a deep 36mm BI-HEX socket (nut is 12 pointed!) - another Laser Hand Tool item! To solve the problem with removing the top mount from the strut, you should use a 1/2" square drive "large sparkplug" socket as they tend to have an external hex section at the top to fit a spanner or better a "drive through socket" or "crow's foot spanner bit" - so that you can torque it correctly. Amongst all the parts you should be replacing, I hope that you will be including top bearings as they will fall apart. Have a look on the Skoda site for tips (www.briskoda.net) and the Seat site (www.seatcupra.net) - as for the standard parts to replace as well as any struts and springs, I'd include - top mount securing bolts + strut to top mount nyloc nut + top bearing assembly + driveshaft to hub special nut + strut clamping nyloc nut and maybe the clamping bolt.

[Tim_GTi]

Both sides will come out, without having to remove any of the driveshafts.

Method: Spray loads of WD40 into and around the strut and hub, and get someone to turn the steering wheel, as the strut starts to move get a mallet and whack the strut back on itself, this will cause the strut to move and pop out a little bit. Keep moving the steering wheel side to side, knocking the strut back on itself and it will come out.

Another tip is if you've got compact spring compressors, fit them onto the spring whilst it's still on the car, this will take strain off the length of the strut and make it easier to get out.

[whitegtipolo]

i must admit they are sh1t to do ! i stuggled first time , the best way for the drivers side is to undo the bottom ball joint 3 bolts on the bottom of the arm gives loads a movement! dont remove the drive shaft nut as it is a one time use nut and can only be tightened to 25nm! One more tip take a big srewdriver bit from a set and turn it in the back of the hub to open it up

[loud]

ball joint way for drivers side was my method, still a b***h though with the spring under near max compression to get it out

[Gillen]

Hopefully this will be sorted tomorrow

Then i need to get the tracking/camber sorted

[Gillen]

Finally got the fronts on! I know I need the tracking/camber sorting but when I turn one way, a side of the car lifts up

Is this just camber related do you think?

[Tim_GTi]

One side of the car lifts up? eloborate?

[Gillen]

Tim - When I'm stationary and start turning the steering wheel to the left, the front right of the car raises, it's really odd . I must just not have them both set at the same height?

Another problem I've got is I got a pretty loud metallic knock from either side when I go over bumps etc. I fitted some V-maxx shortened drop links and I think they're making the ARB knock on something, which is why I thought I was supposed to fit shorter ones, to stop the ARB knocking!?

[Gillen]

Anyone?

[Gillen]

Sooooo, where the drop link connects to the ARB, it's scraping along the inner wing everytime the damper compresses...I thought the V-Maxx drop links were supposed to fit the Polo...

Not sure what to do now Can't put the original drop links back on because then the ARB will hit the drive shaft...Mondeo ones are only a tiny bit shorter and i think they may still knock.

Annoyed!

[chewy]

I just have the standard drop links in and I don't get any noise

I don't know why one side would lift up as you turn the steering wheel