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Hey guys, I picked up this active sub with a view to fit it to my stock headunit (RCD 200). I picked up this sub for its good reviews, small size (need boot space) and the ability to wire in speaker-level inputs which makes the process simpler.

Since I've got a couple of days before it's delivered I'm just thinking over the install. Sound input is easy enough, I'll splice off the rear speaker cables back into the boot (which the instructions allow for, so no need for a converter apparently) The two things I'm not so confident with is the power supply and/or the remote switching. Should I tap into the headunit power wires to power the sub too? Is there anything else I should be aware of?

Here's the wiring diagram in the instructions.


I noticed on one online source that the positive power wire is a 'terminal 30' which apparently is a constant, unswitched live, so to tap off these would actually be a constant power draw when the key is taken out. If that's the case then where would I find an ignition switched live?

There isn't actually a switched live source into the back of the RCD200. There's a constant live and two pins for the canbus. The canbus is what actually controls the switching on and off with the ignition. You're probably better off using something like the cigarette lighter for the switched live.

It's also easy to run wiring alongside the handbrake and under the rear seats to the boot if you do it that way.

Thanks for the advice mate, that's confirmed what I thought. Mine's a 55 plate so the cigarette lighter is a permanent live, I'll have to tap a switched live from somewhere else.

The thing is when you switch off the ignition, the radio is the only thing that stays on until you remove the keys and I'd like the sub to stay on until that point as well - is there a switched live anywhere on that level? (0 ignition, but key in) I imagine the radio is canbus controlled to stay on at that point.. I had a look at some older posts in here and it seems playing around with canbus system may well drive a man insane, a canbus adapter perhaps?

For two pins (boom boom) I'll wire a manual switch into the centre column to control the live to the sub instead. I would even draw some humour from my failure by labeling the switch as WOB WOB and NO WOB WOB or something. At least I'd retain my sanity.

Yeah, canbus is a pain. What you're doing is quite unconventional though, changing head unit would be much easier! You could get a canbus adapter to get the switched live and then use another adapter to convert it back to quadlock for the RCD200, but that's a pain.

Maybe connect it to a constant live with a relay and take a remote wire from one of the speakers/aerial or something perhaps?

I would connect the sub to permanent live anyway because it has to take a remote signal from somewhere on the Stereo? So if the stereos off the sub will be too?

Thanks Ben. That was the plan but I'm using the stock RCD-200 which doesn't have a remote wire, it's activated by canbus so I tapped into an ignition switched fuse such as the headlight washers with a mini fuse tap. It also doesn't have RCA outputs so I had to splice the signal wires into the OE quadlock clips Luckily the amp accepts speaker level inputs and the result sounds great! Thanks for your help guys.