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Wondering if anyone with access to workshop m anuals would be able to look up the torque specs for the engine mount? Part number it relates to is 6R0 199 167. Bolts 18 and 19 in this image:



Thanks in advance.

4-cylinder common rail engine (1.6 l, EA189)
Engine ID: CAYA CAYB CAYC

Because it's torque to yeld bolt: change them.

It cost nothing and it could it save you a lot of trouble

When I handed in my wife's 2015 6C Polo 1.2TSI to get its gearbox mounting "sorted out" while under warranty, the "VW guided pathway" when a customer handed their car in while under warranty for "drive train clunky/rubbery noises", step one was to remove the gearbox mounting and cover it with copper grease(?!), when carrying that first warranty repair step, all torque too yield bolts were replaced, as shown by the worksheet that I requested. When or if the customer handed that car back in, the second step in the "VW guided pathway" was to give in and remove the original petrol engine version of that mounting and replace it with the TDI equivalent - but no bolts were replaced, again as shown in the workshop worksheet that I requested, and these same worksheets are used to recover money from VW by the main dealership.

I handed my old 2011 Audi S4 in to get its engine mountings replaced at a "proper" VAG Indie locally, due to an initial shortage of RHS engine mountings for that car from Audi - with no useful aftermarket engine mountings for that car around in UK, I was tasked with providing the required parts as outlined on a list that Indie gave me, the plan was for me to keep in touch with my Audi dealership and when the parts became available, order this kit of parts in and then re-book that car into the Indie, their parts list was only for the 2 engine mountings and 2 fixings support brackets - so no bolts which I already knew were in same cases, torque to yield! So I added in all bolts for fixing these mountings into place.

When I handed it in to get that work carried out, I had no idea as to how they were going to do that job, so I did not provide any other bolts that might get removed to reach the mountings. When I collected it, the bill was for labour only, including a printout covering a re-alignment. That to me meant that they had taken the sensible, but not the Audi way to carry out this task, ie they had dropped the subframe.

Subframe securing bolts and lower brace securing bolts are all torque to yield - so I've bought in a set of new bolts to sort that out before I start using that car again.

I'm guessing that while the official workshop manuals state that these torque to yield bolts must be replaced, workshops don't always bother, now maybe 7 times out of 10 these bolts will not shear and cause a problem, but they will now be getting stretched beyond their "elastic" limit so their clamping performance will always be compromised, for these reasons, I'll always spend more cash and replace these bolts.

Finally, I have posted in this forum about my experiences of the subframe on my wife's 2015 6C Polo 1.2TSI suffering the "loss of a securing bolt's head" that, I think, would have been caused at least in part, by our local VW dealership having either loosening off the subframe securing bolts when replacing a torn lower arm bush, or by them just tightening these bolts up "a bit more" when they were being tasked with sorting out the clunking noises while it was under warranty - aided by corrosion of the front pair of bolts due to water getting trapped where the bolt heads were located, ie the point of highest stress!

Thanks guys!

Bolts were replaced. The thread had complete sheared off the top of the engine mount (part 14) so I was completely replacing this.

Interestingly, there were only 3 of part 18 (M8x20 holding the bottom of the mount to the body), and the 4th thread had clearly been absent of a bolt for years, maybe missing from the factory as the mount was original.

Work complete and it drives better than before the mount snapped!

Thanks everyone for your reports, a simple bolt and how it is installed can noticeably change the driving experience.

Enjoy it!

Hey did anyone swap the left engine mount with a scissor jack or a bottle jack? Is it doable?

amer6R wrote: Mon Jun 03, 2024 4:30 pm Hey did anyone swap the left engine mount with a scissor jack or a bottle jack? Is it doable?

You mean the engine mount on gearbox or the opposite side ?

I did the gearbox's one, and with a hydraulic jack it was perferct (under the gearbox). However for the other one, I'm not sure if the oil pan will likes that.

Le_Combattant wrote: Mon Jun 03, 2024 5:33 pm

amer6R wrote: Mon Jun 03, 2024 4:30 pm Hey did anyone swap the left engine mount with a scissor jack or a bottle jack? Is it doable?

You mean the engine mount on gearbox or the opposite side ?

I did the gearbox's one, and with a hydraulic jack it was perferct (under the gearbox). However for the other one, I'm not sure if the oil pan will likes that.

yea the one on top of the transmission. I know i have to support/ lift slightly the transmission. But im not sure when i loosen the bolts on top will it twist and fall off basic jack

amer6R wrote: Mon Jun 03, 2024 6:24 pm

Le_Combattant wrote: Mon Jun 03, 2024 5:33 pm

amer6R wrote: Mon Jun 03, 2024 4:30 pm Hey did anyone swap the left engine mount with a scissor jack or a bottle jack? Is it doable?

You mean the engine mount on gearbox or the opposite side ?

I did the gearbox's one, and with a hydraulic jack it was perferct (under the gearbox). However for the other one, I'm not sure if the oil pan will likes that.

yea the one on top of the transmission. I know i have to support/ lift slightly the transmission. But im not sure when i loosen the bolts on top will it twist and fall off basic jack

I did it last year, and my tips is:

Support your gearbox with a jack like this one: Remove the bolt that attach the gearboax mount to the gearbox, then lower a little bit (you can remove the dog bone mount to not damage it) and remove the bolts that attach the mount to the frame of the car.

Thank you, i think it's time then to invest in propper jack

Ehh,
on the TDI the bolt closer to the firewall that goes thru thru chassis leg is nasty to get out.
The bolt is a bit too long to get out without manipulating the transmission position. It hits into the transmission bracket. If it was only 2mm shorter.

deff. dog bone out to lower the transmission to clear the bolt

Edit:

Everything mounted. I have cleaned and degreasesed new engine mount.
Then used Liqui Moly 1402 sealant and filled up the cavity ~ 70% of the tube used. I used a popcycle stick to level it out. Its really thick stuff.

Let it dry for 10 days. Use moisture it will help it cure.

I have a CAY engine with single mass flywheel conversion (~850 rpm idle) and there is so few to none vibrations (idle), but nothing that gets onto your nerves.
There is no more clunking noises, or rocking the car when you lift off your foot from accelerator pedal.
The response is solid, and gear changes are crisp.

I really like it and the car is much more pleasant to drive. The old mount started to show signs of cracking.

Maybe i future renew the right engine mount also, so all three are "fresh".