Camber adjustment
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Dwain dibly
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Camber adjustment
I have front nearside tyre wear on the outside edge so I've checked the camber and it's out compared with the other side can it be adjusted or do I have to start faffing with the sub frame ?
- iichel
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Re: Camber adjustment
what camber values are we talking about? toe values are OK?
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RUM4MO
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Re: Camber adjustment
I'd think that you would need to check the camber on both sides to try to work out if the subframe needs moving across.
Has this car hit a deep pothole or been kerbed to cause this, if so, maybe look for damage first and remove that damage before attempting to correct it by "adjusting" the camber - which is fixed?
What is the condition of the lower arm rear mountings on both sides?
KwikFit can carry out full geometry checks although in my case I doubt if they carried out the caster procedure correctly, I discovered this by accident as all I thought I was getting was a toeing check as I had replaced inner track rods and TREs!
Has this car hit a deep pothole or been kerbed to cause this, if so, maybe look for damage first and remove that damage before attempting to correct it by "adjusting" the camber - which is fixed?
What is the condition of the lower arm rear mountings on both sides?
KwikFit can carry out full geometry checks although in my case I doubt if they carried out the caster procedure correctly, I discovered this by accident as all I thought I was getting was a toeing check as I had replaced inner track rods and TREs!
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Dwain dibly
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Re: Camber adjustment
Just put a simple bubble gauge on the disc and these are the results
FNS + 1deg
FOS - 1.25 deg
Nothing looks bent or loose or like its had a whack
FNS + 1deg
FOS - 1.25 deg
Nothing looks bent or loose or like its had a whack
- iichel
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Re: Camber adjustment
looks like one wheel is cambered in the wrong direction and it's way out of spec with 1 degree positive and negative.
are you sure your vehicle is level?
Either your should move your subframe from left to right (or right to left, depending on your definition of positive and negative.
Or your bubble gauge is off, or your car is not level..
are you sure your vehicle is level?
Either your should move your subframe from left to right (or right to left, depending on your definition of positive and negative.
Or your bubble gauge is off, or your car is not level..
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Dwain dibly
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Re: Camber adjustment
Its way out according to specs it should be -0.5 + - 0.5 so it should read anywhere between 0 and -1 getting some new tyres in a few months so I'll get it done properly I had the clutch done under warranty over 12 months ago do you think they could have moved the sub frame? It does look like the sub needs to go one way as one is side + and one --
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RUM4MO
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Re: Camber adjustment
Have you checked the camber on the rear wheels - I'm only suggested doing that to double check, if there is no rear damage, that the car is standing on a level surface.
I would have thought that only the LHS suspension leg needs to be released/removed to get the gearbox out, but if the workshop replacing the clutch chose a more radical approach to getting access to the gearbox, then that might explain why it now looks like the lower crossmember has been fitted back "over to one side slightly" and that your car now needs a full 4 wheel re-alignment check and adjust.
Though the present alignment could also have been due to a bit of heavy kerbing - which could move the crossmember over in that direction!
I would have thought that only the LHS suspension leg needs to be released/removed to get the gearbox out, but if the workshop replacing the clutch chose a more radical approach to getting access to the gearbox, then that might explain why it now looks like the lower crossmember has been fitted back "over to one side slightly" and that your car now needs a full 4 wheel re-alignment check and adjust.
Though the present alignment could also have been due to a bit of heavy kerbing - which could move the crossmember over in that direction!
