In great need of help

[Retali]

I think i have to deal with amateurs or some crap.
The problems persist.
The Short circuit to b+ problem
and the air intake loss.

I sent the car to check the electrical wire from the ecu to sensor and they told me that the wires are ok. But tbh i do not trust that they checked the whole wiring.
They might have just checked the volts with a polymeter on the plugs. Which, to my knowledge does not mean anything.

Then Sent the car to another workshop clearly stating the problem i have with the short circuit and the ************** instead of checking the wires they cleaned the throttle valve lmao.

Still looking for a good electrician ahhhahahaah.

[Retali]

Guys i am a dead end.
My nerves are ready to break down.

Went to another shop and despite me stating the sensor B+ wiring problem
Instead they changed my coils, coil pack and coil cables.

Of course the problem was not fixed and the P115500 (obd) problem keeps coming up.

Did some google search and again check the sensor plug connectors with a polymeter.
The voltage coming from both plugs is 5 volts with key on/engine off but also engine on.

So according to vw worksho manuals when the specified value of 5 volts is obtained .

They say : using a multimeter , check the MAP electrical harness connector terminal 4 to ECM electrical harness connector terminal 101 for resistance (for jetta not vw polo 6r-so the 101 might be different)
check the wiring for damages,open circuits, high resistance etc and repait faulty wiring.

can i do this , can anyone help ?

[iichel]

did you already check/change the sensor? do you have a wiring diagram?

[Retali]

did you already check/change the sensor? do you have a wiring diagram?

Yes i have changed both sensors with original parts the fault keeps coming up.
I dont have a wiring diagram sorry. I am clueless regarding electric diagrams etc.

I just know this fault keeps coming up along with the air intake loss fault. The malfunction frequency counter of the p1155 fault is 22 times and the intake airloss p2279 fault frequency counter is 10 times.

I connected the multimeter to pin 1 and 3 and got the 5 volt value with engine off/on key on. I am supposed to check wire/pin 4 with the ecu from what i understand. from this link
https://workshop-manuals.com/volkswagen ... /page_826/

But its jetta, its the same plug but i cant find the same manuals regarding polo 6r.

[iichel]

This is Polo 6R.



So I guess you determined the 1 and 3 pins to be a good GND and a good 5V.
2 toes to 42 and 4 goes to 55 on the small block of the ECU connector. You will need to determine if these wires are intact now.

[Retali]

This is Polo 6R.



So I guess you determined the 1 and 3 pins to be a good GND and a good 5V.
2 toes to 42 and 4 goes to 55 on the small block of the ECU connector. You will need to determine if these wires are intact now.

Thank you very much IICHEL! God bless you !

[Retali]

This is Polo 6R.
So I guess you determined the 1 and 3 pins to be a good GND and a good 5V.
2 toes to 42 and 4 goes to 55 on the small block of the ECU connector. You will need to determine if these wires are intact now.

Iichel, we MAY have found the culprit.
It is funny and dramatic at the same time, after 3 workshops checking the car.

The culprit, might be the connector pin (of the map plug) number 4. The one i was supposed to check according to the workshop manuals.
The female pin was not looking like the 3 others. It was visibly more open. Something i have told the 2 electricians but none of them paid attention to it.

On friday, after our talk, i was wonder while sitting in the car, how the FK only one cable might be damaged and all three others that give the volt number are ok.
So i remembered the look of the pin 4. I detached the plug, took the needle of the multimeter and tweeked it a bit trying to make it look like the others, closing the gap.
Result : First day in 2 years almost the error didnt pop at any point.

Reminder, that some garages have told me to change the turbocharger/wastegate that costed 1.500 euro.

I will wait to see how the week goes. And if the its ok i will go and change the pin with a new one.

We will see.

[iichel]

Well done, good work. Keep us updated if you can.

[Retali]

Well done, good work. Keep us updated if you can.

Ι will 100%.

[Retali]

Well, the problems reappeared. Note that i have not changed the female pin connector.
I went further to check the cables and pin connectors of the map plug and to my surprise i saw that all female connectors were crimped without a proper crimbing tool and all pins were WITHOUT waterproof seals.
So i have to replace them and do them correctly.

What bothers me now is that the intake problem appears only when the car is cold, after 5kilometers or so, the limp code fault (intake air loss etc) dissappear and the engine runs fine. So i do not believe it is a wastegate or turbo problem.
So i do not understand what might cause this problem in connection with the car being cold etc . It is weird.

[iichel]

did you see any corrosion on the pins or terminals?

[Retali]

did you see any corrosion on the pins or terminals?

I didnt see any on the ones i pulled. Especially on number 4.

[iichel]

I'm wondering why there are non-isolated terminals on that plug. Was it ever repaired? And if so, why and how? Bad repair? Bad actuator? The mystery continues.

[Retali]

I'm wondering why there are non-isolated terminals on that plug. Was it ever repaired? And if so, why and how? Bad repair? Bad actuator? The mystery continues.

Goodmorning, sorry for the late response but i have access only through office here.
Yeah the terminals were replaced from gold to silver . According to the electrician the gold ones were of lower quality ....

When the problem of intake loss first occured, they started changing stuff that were easily replaceable, like the map sensor, they were cleaning the butterfly etc. My guess is that they changed those terminals lol...
lol because they changed them without placing the rubber waterproof seals. I ordered from vag a replacement cable that comes complete for 17 euro. I will the have it replaced by the end of the week and come back here.
Also there is something drainning my battery. I have never put a new electrical system in the car other than the rns 310 with the integrated blutooth around 2016. I have to do the search with the multimeter and the safeties.

[Retali]

So, after relying on garages to take care of my problem.

I decided to take care of the issue myself.

I am writing what happened, for you to understand the level of incompetence of the AUTHORISED vag dealership here.
Went to the parts department and ordered a replacement for 1J0973704 fuse since me and iichel have established the culprit must have been cable number 4 (look top posts) .
I payed 17 euro (17 !!!!) for ONE (double headed female) cable that 1) was not 1.5 mm (i was never asked the diameter) 2) the cable DID not have any sort of insulation on the female connector .

I was so fkn annoyed that i went and ordered myself a replacement part on site that sells parts (well known) found one with all 4 cables plus the fuse for only 18 euro (not oem vag but still).
When i received it, it had insulation on EVERY single cable, apart from the orange classic insulation of the fuse. Also came with 4 clear insulated connectors for crimping.
Went and bought some tape for car harnesses aswell.

Found the courage, cut off the old cables with the fuse (non of the cables had insulation...) took my fathers (god bless lidl) automatic wire stripper and did the job .
The funniest thing was that the OEM vw cables were black, brown and 2 WHITES . Since i was a total noob in changing, i didnt mark the which white one was going to which number.
Thank god before using the insulated connectors and cimping them i exchanged the white cables and started the car, to my help, the esp light came on instantly so i changed them.
Crimped the connectors, used my thermal gun, used the harness tape and voila it was looking better than OEM.

The esp problem came back the next morning but only once, instead of 8 or 10 times . The fault regarding the short to b+ did not come back just the air loss intake fault.
So i said to myself, at least i fixed that fault. Same the next day.
BUT afther the 3rd Day and onwards......and for 4 straight days with extra moisture, cold or not NO fault came back ! NO FAULT AT ALL!

I am bit hesitated but i have a sense i managed to fix the fkn problem that ruined my mood for more than 2 years.
Ill come back by the end of month to give an update!

Now i want to fix a funny noise that comes from my heater, when i put it at speed 2 and brake i hear funny noise like buzzing . When i increase the speed to 3 or 4 the buzzing persists (still same loudness) but when i reduce the speed
from 3 or 4 to 3 or 2 or from 2 to 1 the buzzing stops . Maybe the culprit is the resistor or the blower . I removed the passengers box to check the resistor but the mfkers had ziptied the airbag on the column lol.